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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All FS frames require some maintenance. It is nice to know what to expect as your bike ages.

My bike: 1600km (1000 miles) on it. Lower eye bushing developed some play, replaced them and everything is tight again. Both a cheap and easy job.
 

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All FS frames require some maintenance. It is nice to know what to expect as your bike ages.

My bike: 1600km (1000 miles) on it. Lower eye bushing developed some play, replaced them and everything is tight again. Both a cheap and easy job.
Good info, worth having spares of wear and tear bits. Did u get from orbea? A part number and pic would be great.
 

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This is a great topic for any new FS bike. Are these frames arriving with greased or dry bushings? I recall reading about the Cannondale Scalpels on the forums here and how most of them were built with very little to no grease in the bushings.
 

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I have an Oiz M10-TR with about 600 miles and was starting to notice a little bit of play developing at the rear wheel so decided to investigate a little further. I was hoping to find the problem you had LMN since that sounded like an easy fix but that area was tight. What I found instead was that there's a slight bit (maybe 1 mm?) of lateral play in the pivot where the rocker arm connects to the top tube/seat post junction. The bolts here didn't feel loose but I backed them out and snugged them back again and it made no difference. This is my first FS so trying to learn about keeping them running. It looks like there are two bearings at this pivot - would a bad bearing result in some lateral movement? How hard are these bearings to press out (it looks like they are held in by loctite)? Thanks,

Mike Chapman
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have an Oiz M10-TR with about 600 miles and was starting to notice a little bit of play developing at the rear wheel so decided to investigate a little further. I was hoping to find the problem you had LMN since that sounded like an easy fix but that area was tight. What I found instead was that there's a slight bit (maybe 1 mm?) of lateral play in the pivot where the rocker arm connects to the top tube/seat post junction. The bolts here didn't feel loose but I backed them out and snugged them back again and it made no difference. This is my first FS so trying to learn about keeping them running. It looks like there are two bearings at this pivot - would a bad bearing result in some lateral movement? How hard are these bearings to press out (it looks like they are held in by loctite)? Thanks,

Mike Chapman
I just had the same problem. Came here to write about it when I read your posts.

I pulled the link out and the bearings at the top tube fell out of the link. It like the carbon has worn just a bit. I put some bear retainer compound in there and put the bearings back in. Worked really well, the back of the bike is much stiffer. If you do this make sure you let the compound set-up for 24hrs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can you feel this by hand? I also have a lot of moments when I notice that the rear of my Oiz is pretty flexy.
The easiest way to check is to pullout the seat stay pivots. If the link is loose side to side in the frame then you have some bearing play in there.
 

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LMN, great information, thanks. What bearing retainer compound did you use? Looks like Orbea recommends Loctite 438, but I'm having a hard time finding that and if it didn't work originally I'm not sure it's the best tool for the job. Looks like Loctite 680 might be better but it lists metal as the only acceptable substrate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
LMN, great information, thanks. What bearing retainer compound did you use? Looks like Orbea recommends Loctite 438, but I'm having a hard time finding that and if it didn't work originally I'm not sure it's the best tool for the job. Looks like Loctite 680 might be better but it lists metal as the only acceptable substrate.
I actually just used Red Loctite thread locker. It works, but might be an issue when it comes to bearing removal.

If I had been able to find it I would have preferred Loctite 609.
 

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FYI I used Loctite 609 to bond these bearings back into the linkage and everything is back to solid now. Thanks for the help.

One other thing to look out for on these frames - there are expanding wedge stops that hold the derailleur cable housing and brake hose secure where they enter the chain stays in the bottom bracket area. I discovered that one of these was no longer in place and found that it had come loose and fell into the chain stay. Trust me, it's much easier to just make sure these things are tight than it is to try to shake, rattle, and roll it out of the chain stay.
 

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So I checked if the link is loose and found that there is zero or almost zero play. Could the play at the rear be caused by the wheelset? I have the stock Mavic wheelset and the spokes are fine, not loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I checked if the link is loose and found that there is zero or almost zero play. Could the play at the rear be caused by the wheelset? I have the stock Mavic wheelset and the spokes are fine, not loose.
I would pull the link off completely and check the bearing are in tight. Everyone I have talked to who has put some bearing retaining compound on those bears has said it has made a significant difference.

A bit of work but worth it.
 

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Sort of frame maintenance...

Replaced the X01 DUB Crank and BB with a Raceface Next SL Cinch with PM and Enduro BB92 30mm Stainless Steel BK-7015. To get the chain line to match, I used the 1mm washer provided (as well an orange dust seal on each side). Fits nice with plenty of clearance for the crank arms and direct mount 32T chainring.

Removing the old crank was the typical pain. To get the 8mm self extracting bolt to turn, I put an old handlebar on the wrench and set it on the ground and then pressed the opposite side pedal with my foot and it broke free. The DUB BB was not bad once I figured it out there are no lips or retainers inside the frame shell like some of my other bikes, just smooth carbon all the way across. The bearings have a plastic piece inside that when removed, make them 30mm bearings. Sadly, the fit on the Raceface spindle was loose (seemed to want to spin on the race instead of using the bearings), so I still pulled them out using a Jenson Foundation BB30 removal tool and a number of good whacks with a hammer. These are single row bearings.

Putting the new stuff on was typical BB/crank install, so I'll leave it at that.
 

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So, replacing a bushing after 1000 miles seems a little premature to me. Also, I'd be concerned if the carbon link is wearing and the bearings are loose enough to fall out. Is the design not robust? It seems like Intense is having a similar issue with their link on the Sniper. That is, original design is not robust, resultant bearing play, now having to release an additional brace to resolve the issue. In your opinion, something to be concerned about?
 

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they never put bearing compound in my rear link and I had all kind of play in my rear end. If you hold the shock and push and pull on the frame and the shock flexes from side to side you will need the compound. Orbea gave me a warranty on the carbon link because I did a lot of riding on it before I could figure out the issue.
 

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All FS frames require some maintenance. It is nice to know what to expect as your bike ages.

My bike: 1600km (1000 miles) on it. Lower eye bushing developed some play, replaced them and everything is tight again. Both a cheap and easy job.
After 2300km on my Oiz M10 TR I noticed some free play in rear triangle. I went to dealer and they found out one bearing in the carbon link is dead. They are going to remove link and see if bearings fall out by themselves or not. This would indicate whole link replacement. I am quite sad that such expensive bike has this kind of problem after only 2000km on it
 
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