Looks sharp (literally and figuratively). Not sure the market really needs another tensioner, but those are nice. Maybe do some bling ano colours...
Shove it with that crap....let the 90's die alreadySSSasky said:some bling ano colours...
Thanks!j e SS e said:Gorgeous. I want one! (Seriously, what do I have to do?)
Looks pretty thick, getting enough threads into the QR nut?
And I guess on the non-drive side, you'd have to either turn the bike or the beer upside down....
got a picture? if not, i'm sure i can whip some up that will work.doco said:I like, polished is nice, elegant design
will those also work with front facing horizontal drops?
Are we talking about the semi horizontal drop like on the Cross Check?ISuckAtRiding said:got a picture? if not, i'm sure i can whip some up that will work.
if so, these probably wont work, but i have some ideas.J-No said:Are we talking about the semi horizontal drop like on the Cross Check?
They look good to me. PM me if you want to sell a set.ISuckAtRiding said:...Figure maybe $15 a set for the first 10 sets so i can get some feedback?...
that screw is just there for demonstration purposes. i'll be ordering some stainless steel replacements on monday, and jam nuts will be included. But i've been using a similar set on my bike that i made years ago without a jam nut, and they dont move very much if at all.marty_hd said:Any experience with the screw wandering? Did you locktite it or once set does it tsya there?
I'd be interested in a set.
No I totally dig it as it is. Though I use the Surlys, I do find them bulky and heavy. And it's annoying having to use the little washer with a QR axle.ISuckAtRiding said:Thanks!
It is about .150" thick. I've made ones that were counterbored to be a little thinner in the past, and they've actually bent from tightening the QR. This i think is a happy medium. My QR nut fits just fine, although a QR for a tandem bike is reccomended for anything with chain tensioners, IMHO.
As for the opener thing, here's my reasoning:
if you lay your bike down or lean it against something, most of the time the drive side is up to prevent damage to the drivetrain (not super neccesary on a SS, but hey, most of us came from gear decent, and old habbits die hard). This way all you have to do is pull the bike upright to use the opener.
On the other hand, when you're wrenching on your bike or if you have a habbit of keeping your bike upsidedown, you can still open your beer on the non-drive side. I could put one on both sides of each tensioner like someone else does with their heavy steel ones, but i'm a minimalist, and the goal was to make them as light as possible, because frankly, i'd rather not have tensioners at all if i could avoid it without spending $$$$. Ok, fine, i'm a weight weinie!
This was one of the things i was hoping to get an opinion on. Would you guys rather see them both in the same direction?
And as for getting a set, i suppose i could run off a limited amount if some people were interested in trying them out. Figure maybe $15 a set for the first 10 sets so i can get some feedback?
These are fully CNC'd aluminum, hand polished, and stainless hardware will be included.
Manufactured in my home garage!
Cool, thanks man!j e SS e said:No I totally dig it as it is. Though I use the Surlys, I do find them bulky and heavy. And it's annoying having to use the little washer with a QR axle.
Every bit on my KM is polished (all my bikes, actually), so this is perfect.
Thanks for being. :thumbsup: