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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1) How often?

2) What needs to be done?

I've looked at the Onyx service videos, but they don't show the steps necessary to get at the sprague clutch. It looks like you have to take the bearings out.

Has anyone done a rear hub service? How did you get the bearings out?

I've got some persistent creaking in my drivetrain, and the only thing I haven't taken apart and cleaned is my rear hub.

Thanks.
 

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Out spokin'
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I just got an Onyx hub so I haven’t needed to service it yet but I watched the vid on Onyx’s site and the process seemed quite straightforward to me. I even bought a tube of their recommended Sprague clutch grease to have on hand, man that stuff is expensive!

Anyway I’ll follow this thread to see if I can gain some insights, tips , etc. too.
=sParty
 

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Watch their disassembly video. You need a bearing puller and a bearing press to r&r bearings and the fancy grease for the sprague. And if you have the CL boost rear hub there is 1 bearing that cannot be user removed (unless you have a machine shop). I really don’t think the noise is coming from the sprague or bearings though.
For what it’s worth, I did have powder coated Onyx hubs that had a nasty spoke noise from the spoke digging into the powder coat and maybe even the aluminum on the drive side hub flange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sparticus,

Did you buy the grease on amazon for $49? I can't believe it's that expensive. Shouldn't it be cheaper than normal grease because it doesn't contain additives??

farfromovin,

I looked at all the Onyx mtb hub videos but they don't show how they remove the bearings--they just show the necessary tools. I have one of those blind hole bearing pullers with a slide hammer and a bearing press, but I would like to see how Onyx actually does the procedure. I like to keep my hubs well serviced by servicing them at least every 6 months, and I'm about due, so even if the creaking isn't coming from the hub, I would still like to service my hub.
 

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Sparticus,

Did you buy the grease on amazon for $49? I can't believe it's that expensive. Shouldn't it be cheaper than normal grease because it doesn't contain additives??
I don't know anything about grease pricing. I bought my tube of ISOFLEX LDS 18 SPECIAL A for $30.29 from CNC Specialty Store, they charged $9.49 for shipping, total $$39.78.

As for Onyx's service videos, these are the ones I've been viewing.
=sParty
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does anyone know what size bearing is used in the Onyx Boost rear hub? I just received some of the magic grease, and I've got a blind hole bearing puller with a slide hammer, and a bearing press with various sized drifts, but I wanted to check if I have a the correct drift for the bearing in my hub before I get started.

And, if anyone else is considering servicing their hub, according to this

The Drive mechanism is greased for life. It is important if you take apart you hub not to contaminate the internals. The sprag comes greased with a Long-Term ISOFLEX LDS 18 Special A grease and typically will not need to be replaced.
Full text:

Onyx Maintanence

Keeping your Onyx Hub clean and free of dirt and debris is key in maintaining its high performance capabilities.

1. Use a brush (paint brush or similar) to clean off outer components of hubs.
2. If needed you can use compressed air to blow out tough to reach crevices, being careful not to send a direct blast into bearings.
3. Wipe down the shell with damp rag.

The Drive mechanism is greased for life. It is important if you take apart you hub not to contaminate the internals. The sprag comes greased with a Long-Term ISOFLEX LDS 18 Special A grease and typically will not need to be replaced. Lubricants with additives that decrease the coefficient of friction, i.e. MoS2 or graphite are NOT possible.

With grease lubrication please take care that the clutch is not filled completely with grease: "Less is more" in this case. The clutch should be "greasy" - that's enough.
And generally: It is not allowed to use any lubricant with additives (for example MoS2 or graphite), which decreases the friction coefficient.

If you find it absolutely necessary to re-grease your sprag, please make sure you have everything available before doing so. Once you have your materials, disassemble the hub and remove the sprag. Be careful not to remove the spring around the sprag cage as this will cause the individual sprags to fall out. Clean the sprag using WD-40 and blow out with LOW pressure compressed air. After it is dry, fill the empty space with in sprag with the LDS 18 Special A grease. You want to achieve a 60% fill ratio. Here are the steps!

1. Clean outside of hub and driver before proceeding, this is to keep any debris out of hub during the next steps.

2. Remove Driver side Bolt and widget.
3. Pull and rotate CCW the Driver and remove from shell.
4. Using an ID bearing puller, remove the outer support bearing. You may need to LIGHTLY apply LocTite or similar to the outer portion of the bearing during reassembly.
5. Using a small flat screwdriver, remove the snap-ring from the sprag sleeve.
6. Remove sprag from hub, noting direct of the tails (should be pointing to the left). If you put in backwards you will have a Left hand drive hub!
7. Do NOT remove the spring that is located around the sprag.
8. Place sprag in a container of Mineral Spirits and gently aggitate. Once clean, use WD-40 to rinse it off.
9. Use LOW pressure compressed air to finish off the cleaning, being careful not to blow the sprays out of the cage.
10. Clean inside the hub as best as you can with a lint free towel.
11. Regrease the Sprag using LDS 18 Special A grease only, filling the empty spaces with about 60% grease.
12. Put snap ring back into sleeve, making sure it's fully seated into groove.
13. Install outer bearing, if loose, use a small amount of bearing compound or Loctite.
14. Clean off driver and wipe down with lint free cloth.
15. Insert driver and rotate CCW while pushing in.
16. Install driver side widget and bolt.

Making sure to keep everything clean, reassemble the hub.
 

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Does anyone know what size bearing is used in the Onyx Boost rear hub? I just received some of the magic grease, and I've got a blind hole bearing puller with a slide hammer, and a bearing press with various sized drifts, but I wanted to check if I have a the correct drift for the bearing in my hub before I get started.

And, if anyone else is considering servicing their hub, according to this

Full text:
Did you ever find out the size? I need to replace my hub bearings and would like to order before I pull the old ones out.

Thanks.
 

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Just call Onyx and ask. They actually answer their phone and are super cool about answering questions. I bugged them several times on the phone before pulling the trigger on my Vesper.
 

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Just curious if anyone has done any maintenance to their hubs. I’m going on 2-years and they still are still silent with no play (I haven’t touched the bearing pre-load).
 

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Just curious if anyone has done any maintenance to their hubs. I'm going on 2-years and they still are still silent with no play (I haven't touched the bearing pre-load).
Yes. I had to replace the drive side bearing. Pretty simple, but it was years before I had to do so (4, I think). Because of this, the axle shaft was slightly corroded, making it a bit tough to get the bearing off. You can only service the outer bearings. You'll need to send in your hub to replace the internal one or the sprag clutch.
 

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Check your drive side cap for looseness, in their vids they show loctite used for that cap when threaded on. Took one of my wheels of today and outside axle had broken where it threads into the cap, broken piece was extracted with fingers. I would check this wheel for axle looseness somewhat regularly, tightened several times. Noticed this drive side bearing rough and does not appear to be ceramic hybrid from the P/N just generic no brand 6902 RS. Either the cap came loose enough to cause failure or bearing caused it, possibly shitty external axle.

I have a second Onyx(both SS) on another bike with much less miles on it maybe 200, that cap was finger tight but no wiggle when thru-axle tight, also did not appear to have had loctite applied was finger loose, need to tear down more as once tightened feels a little rough maybe, this one had Verinent 6902RH hybrid ceramic. On first hub rest of bearings were Enduro ceramic hybrid LLBs, not great but not bad like 3 out 5 IIRC on Enduro's grade scale.

Crap back top my insufferably loud Hope Trials SS which was broken once in same manner, now has steel outer axle so at least bombproof.

All are 142 hubs

Edit: It would appear break occurred within the width of the bearing, only ~1mm of Aluminum at break




Edit 2: Reassembled broken pieces, it looks like cap was threaded on as a far as it will go. The gap between the cap face and shoulder on the outer axle looks is 0.25" on my calipers or 6.3mm, bearing is 7mm wide so it must have been tight together at time of breakage, so looks more like a shitty-part/toasted bearing. Threads are clean in the exposed portion in previous pic so threads were almost totally engaged into axle cap.



Edit 3: It appears the first generic bearing may be Onyx in-house brand like below but the Onyx branding was worn off due to the axle break


 

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Tore down second hub and that one has all Verinent brand hybrid bearings, non-drive side bearing in the second one is the one causing the rough feeling not horrible but noticeable, now the choice of replacing or run it more. Outer axle etc are in good shape on 2nd hub.

The first hub probably has 1000 miles or so on it, second a couple of hundred maybe. I'm a clyde(north of 225# suited up) so maybe factory bearings not durable enough.
 

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Tore down second hub and that one has all Verinent brand hybrid bearings, non-drive side bearing in the second one is the one causing the rough feeling not horrible but noticeable, now the choice of replacing or run it more. Outer axle etc are in good shape on 2nd hub.

The first hub probably has 1000 miles or so on it, second a couple of hundred maybe. I'm a clyde(north of 225# suited up) so maybe factory bearings not durable enough.
In my two sets of Classics, I've also had the non-drive side bearing out of my older set get that not-so-fresh feeling. Replaced it with a spare I had laying around, but I have since purchased a SKF MTRX that I plan to swap in there one of these days. That seems to be the most vulnerable bearing. I've also done the MFU retrofit to run MicroSpline on that hub, it eliminates the axle and cap threads on the drive side.
 

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In my two sets of Classics, I've also had the non-drive side bearing out of my older set get that not-so-fresh feeling. Replaced it with a spare I had laying around, but I have since purchased a SKF MTRX that I plan to swap in there one of these days. That seems to be the most vulnerable bearing. I've also done the MFU retrofit to run MicroSpline on that hub, it eliminates the axle and cap threads on the drive side.
When I tore down the Hope Trials SS hub it probably had 6 months on it, the radial bearings were all shot and replaced with Enduro still running. I replaced the needle bearing as well but I think was OK. Looking up the SKF site now.

Edit: After researching replacement bearings a further, I'm thinking of going with an all ABEC-5 Enduro with SRS seal. Everything I can find is the ceramics have balls harder than the races which tend to make them wear out races(XD-15 Enduros possible exception, but $100) and in the quest for fast spinning ceramic bearings manufacturers have given to using shitty seals like LLB's at best which are not full contact, VV's which are even worse like on Enduro Zero Ceramics. This just compounds the problem of races wearing out once contaminants work in. In a usage like hubs where dirt and water are present I'd rather go for the better sealing like ABEC-5 with SRS sealing which will likely wear better. I've had freaking Formula SS hubs with cheaper bearings that ran for years without issue.
 

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Tore down second hub and that one has all Verinent brand hybrid bearings, non-drive side bearing in the second one is the one causing the rough feeling not horrible but noticeable, now the choice of replacing or run it more.
Why not just service them on a regular basis over replacement?
 

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Why don’t people put GOOD bearings in their hubs, instead of the trash from Enduro?

There is an easy fix to this problem, and it doesn’t involve no-name or Enduro bearings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Why not just service them on a regular basis over replacement?
That hub had very few miles on it in SoCal not really extreme conditions. How often do you service "sealed" bearings? Wouldn't have helped the axle break which may have led to bearing failur, hard to say, chicken and the egg situation there.
 

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Why don't people put GOOD bearings in their hubs, instead of the trash from Enduro?

There is an easy fix to this problem, and it doesn't involve no-name or Enduro bearings.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pray tell, what's your fix? So far out of 2 hubs and 3 bearing brands the only bearings that didn't fail were the Enduros
 
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