Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I have a 2021 Giant Fathom. It comes with Tektro TKD143 brakes. The more I ride, the more I'm realizing the front brake just isn't sufficient. I'm 6'1" 200 lbs. I really have to pull on it to slow me down. The rear brake will lock up the rear. Since most of the braking ability comes from the front brakes, I want to only upgrade the front. I don't really see much need, right now, to change the rear. I'm looking at the Shimano Deore 4 piston front brake kit. Any reservations on only upgrading the front?
 

· slow
Joined
·
8,464 Posts
Have you tried a larger rotor on the front?

If the front and rear brakes are different, you might have different lever feel and bite point. If both will be hydraulic, for simplicity of maintenance and bleeding try not to have one DOT and one mineral oil.

I am running different front and rear brakes, but they are just different generations of XT (765 / 8100) so they set up and feel pretty similar.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you tried a larger rotor on the front?

If the front and rear brakes are different, you might have different lever feel and bite point. If both will be hydraulic, for simlpicity of maintenance and bleeding try not to have one DOT and one mineral oil.

I am running brakes, but they are just different generations of XT (765 / 8100) so they set up and feel pretty similar.
I can't run a bigger rotor. It has a 180 and the Giant Crest fork has a limit of 180.

The Tektro brakes run mineral oil, as far as I know so do Shimano
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,367 Posts
Agreeing with singletrack, i wouldn’t recommend 2 different brakes the different feel and levers would be weird but if you don’t mind getting used to that go for it. And if you don’t like it, upgrade to match the rear later.

Although if your rear wheel/ brake is locking up but not the front, are you sure its not a case of contaminated pads on the front, or possibly a poor bed-in?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Agreeing with singletrack, i wouldn’t recommend 2 different brakes the different feel and levers would be weird but if you don’t mind getting used to that go for it. And if you don’t like it, upgrade to match the rear later.

Although if your rear wheel/ brake is locking up but not the front, are you sure its not a case of contaminated pads on the front, or possibly a poor bed-in?
I suppose I could check the pads but I don't know what would've contaminated the pads. Would be a shame since I've only had the bike about 6 months. I don't ride that often. Maybe once a week
 

· Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Have you tried a larger rotor on the front?

If the front and rear brakes are different, you might have different lever feel and bite point. If both will be hydraulic, for simplicity of maintenance and bleeding try not to have one DOT and one mineral oil.

I am running different front and rear brakes, but they are just different generations of XT (765 / 8100) so they set up and feel pretty similar.
Yeah I had this on my last bike (covid parts shortages). Nice xt rear (mineral oil), awful SRAM Level (DOT fluid) on the front. It was the basic Level. Better than not riding but any way you can avoid it would be better.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,339 Posts
Not completely agreeing that two different brakes are that big a deal.

A few decades ago I had a setup on my hardtail that had no capability of running disc on the rear. So I ran a magura hs33 hydraulic rim brake on the back and some sort of hydraulic disc on the front(probably around the Hayes era?)

Worked in an acceptable fashion.....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,367 Posts
Not completely agreeing that two different brakes are that big a deal.

A few decades ago I had a setup on my hardtail that had no capability of running disc on the rear. So I ran a magura hs33 hydraulic rim brake on the back and some sort of hydraulic disc on the front(probably around the Hayes era?)

Worked in an acceptable fashion.....
Very acceptable since HS-33s are OG.

I suppose I could check the pads but I don't know what would've contaminated the pads. Would be a shame since I've only had the bike about 6 months. I don't ride that often. Maybe once a week
Could have been a bad bed in from the start. Happened to me with a new bike last year. Front (deore 4 pot) never locked up until i replaced the original pads. No matter the cause you can check by: off the bike, squeeze lever with one hand, try to rotate wheel with the other. Are they the same or does front rotate more easily? If so you need new pads/ clean rotor, if not you need new brake(s)!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
You could try swapping to a metallic pad, but that might require a new rotor as well.

Out of interest have you adjusted the lever reach in? I think with the Tektros if you bring the lever to close to the bar you end up not actuating the cylinder enough because there’s a lot of dead travel. Maybe try adjusting them all the way out and see if that improves the braking…
 

· Elitest thrill junkie
Joined
·
42,084 Posts
Not completely agreeing that two different brakes are that big a deal.

A few decades ago I had a setup on my hardtail that had no capability of running disc on the rear. So I ran a magura hs33 hydraulic rim brake on the back and some sort of hydraulic disc on the front(probably around the Hayes era?)

Worked in an acceptable fashion.....
Yep, done it many times, you adapt just fine.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
711 Posts
I had the same problem with my current giant ebike. The shimano XT's on the front just didn't feel like they had the power I needed, and nothing I tied seem to fix it. I wound up putting Hayes Dominion A4 brakes on the front, and leaving the XT's on the rear. It works just fine, and I had no problem adapting to the different lever feel between the two. There really wasn't even a need to adapt really, as it all felt fine on the first ride with the new brakes.

I'd probably upgrade my rear brakes too, but I can't stand internal routing with hydro brakes, so I'll save that upgrade until the XT's on the back are done for. You'll be fine with mix-matched branded brakes on your bike.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You could try swapping to a metallic pad, but that might require a new rotor as well.

Out of interest have you adjusted the lever reach in? I think with the Tektros if you bring the lever to close to the bar you end up not actuating the cylinder enough because there’s a lot of dead travel. Maybe try adjusting them all the way out and see if that improves the braking…
I have moved the lever out, it has helped but I still have to pull on it with a decent amount of force to slow me down
Is this the fork?
Giant Crest 34 Suspension Fork | Giant Bicycles United States

If it is, there wouldn't be any problem using a larger rotor.
Yes, that is the fork. The instruction manual says the range of disc rotors is 160-180. Unless that is with the stock brake system, IE no new adaptor. I would try that first, if I can find an adapter in stock.
I'd put a more aggressive pad on the front and see how that works for you. Sometimes it's the simple things that work.
I'd have to change rotors also since the stock rotor says resin pads only. Not a deal breaker tho
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top