One up dropper post

Sorry for the late reply. It's a great dropper post, my 2nd one of those is coming in mail tomorrow, only 1.0 lbs. But...yes internal routing can really suck sometimes. Any hole towards the bottom of the seat tube will work as long as it's below the bottom of the dropper post itself. OK, so it's 1x and you have the remnants of a front derailleur? What kind of crankset is it, do you know? Is it Hollowtech II or similar, or is it still square-tapered and you or the bike shop did the 1x conversion directly off the existing drivetrain? Can you take a picture?

If it's Hollowtech, simply remove the crank on the other side of the drivetrain, then wiggle out the axle and other crank/chainring, use one of those holes for the routing. There is a special tool for removing a cap on one end if you don't have it (I think it's Park Tool BB9). When you are completely done routing the cable housing first, try to push it up through the whole seat tube until you can see the capped housing end. This can be a pain if the hole is small. Then thread the cable through with the ball side on the seat tube end, not on the handlebar end like certain other droppers. Attach the ball to the opened up bottom of the dropper post (a bit tricky at first), make sure it's secure, slide the dropper slowly down the seat tube. If the frame is like mine, the cable housing will stick on the bottom hole so you have to do this an inch at a time to pull the excess housing out of the seat tube. Once the housing is snug, finish up the seat clamp, seat, handlebar lever. You'll most likely need to try it out, get about 1 cm of extra cable slack out of the cable, tighten up once again, then try the lever again. Should work. If it's still too tight or loose the lever should have a barrel adjuster for fine tuning it.

I had to install a dropper on my GF's Talon 1 and yes, you have to route the cable housing over the bottom bracket. It's a little tricky but it's doable from the seat tube. I cut a dry cleaner's wire hanger, straightened it out and put a small hook on the end. I used the hook to pull up on the loose end while feeding the housing from the head tube. A lotta cuss'n later and I got it done. If you want to save some cuss'n, you can remove the crank and bottom bracket to route the dropper cable housing. Heck, might have been faster than my attempt.

One thing about the Talon that I overlooked was that the dang water bottle bosses on the seat tube prevents you from being able to use a longer dropper. ARGH! I have a 125mm dropper installed but it's a few mm too long for my GF. I may just remove the upper boss since it's not being used.