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I'd agree with most of that :) I have a 20" gloss black and red and it's a seriously great frame. I've dropped the chain once and didn't have a jamming issue but I'll be putting a spare double guide on to protect the frame finish,

It's a very very fast bike! I've a 150Rev on it which means it is the sort of bike which gets a rider into trouble... Full build is 26.6lbs with normal trail/AM kit and its sooooo stiff that there is massive pleasure in simply accelerating as much as you can :). I've dropped a riding mate twice so badly that we actually lost each other in the woods...

And it's smooth, even with a heavy cheap seat post its easy to forget it's a hardtail on reasonable trails, until you put the hammer down too far and end up riding into harsh stuff much much faster than is sensible :)

I had a steel 456 first which has the same geometry but nowhere near the same speed, smoothness or lightness. The steel was fun and a bit plodding, the carbon one just encourages mentalism and turns rides into some sort of interval training as you constantly balance speed and the need to manage a hard tail on stuff you're travelling too fast for :)

The finish on thegloss black and red is brilliant, smooth and deep and nice logos under the shine.

Negatives? Hmm, the seat tube has a large step for the clamp to sit on, I don't think I've ever seen a clamp which would need the entire step so there is a 5mm recessed slot under my seat clamp. Not a big deal really.

That's about it. In summary, how can this bike be this strong (meets CEN), light and reasonably priced?!!!

One more thing... Nearly had a massive crash this evening - bunny hopped a row of rocks at speed and forgot how light it is... Went far too high and by the time I landed I was on course to hit a tree on outside of the bend... Managed to get the bike past the tree with little space to spare. I think that's the first time I've done that!
 

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@Robot, what wheel set is that? Great looking build, hope mine turns out at clean. Guessing it will be a lot heavier, even though I'm going to run it as a single speed -- I'm going to use a dropper post and aluminum bars, plus a 36 fork.
 

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@Robot, what wheel set is that?
It's an old CrossMax setup (CrossMax XLs) that just wouldn't die on me after many seasons (6?). Shortly after that pic, however, the rear wheel packed it in for good, although the front is still smooth and fairly straight. I'm replacing them with Hope Pro IIs laced with DB spokes to Mavic 521s.
 

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Hey guys,

Love this post. I almost order one of these this morning, but I have a concern about size!?!? I am 5'10" with a 31" inseam, according to the size chart I could go either with a 16" or an 18" frame. What would you guys suggest and why?

Thanks,
Sonny
 

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a tight kick sound
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I am 5'10" with a 31 inseam as well. 18" all the way. I can run either a 50mm stem for fun quick handling or an 80 for more of a XC feel. 16 would be way too small, above 18 would be way to big.
 

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I am 5'10" with a 31 inseam as well. 18" all the way. I can run either a 50mm stem for fun quick handling or an 80 for more of a XC feel. 16 would be way too small, above 18 would be way to big.
Cool, thanks. Glad to hear that from someone my exact size!!!
 

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You should maybe try some wider bars and a shorter stem before reducing your fork's travel.
Whilst I have no clue as to what Shig is running for stem and bars, I'll give a +1 to short and wide on the 456. The bike just zips through crap I used to have trouble with - it's so stable! But it's light, so I can move it around with ease. Most of the time the TALAS is at 130, I only go to 160 when there's a good descent ahead. I haven't used the 100 setting since the first ride. I should get one of these so the fork matches the frame... ;)
 

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Build Question

It seems that everyone "faces" the bottom bracket. My understanding is that was important on an aluminum/steel frame when it was new to clean the paint off the bottom bracket. Is it important on these carbon frames? I installed a crank set without doing so and it seems to be in line without any prep? Should I uninstall it and take it into a shop?
 

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It seems that everyone "faces" the bottom bracket. My understanding is that was important on an aluminum/steel frame when it was new to clean the paint off the bottom bracket. Is it important on these carbon frames? I installed a crank set without doing so and it seems to be in line without any prep? Should I uninstall it and take it into a shop?
weaver- No need to face the BB shell.
 

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Hey Robot, did you use an ISCG backplate adapter for the Gamut guide or did you run an E-type gamut guide? Also what chainline do you think you have with said set-up?
i'm running the bb mount gamut guide. i had to do some filing / milling to the top part of the guide (the white retainer bit) and the roller to keep the chain from being pushed from the large cog in the rear onto the next smaller one too. each part was spaced inboard as far as possible before i filed things.

i didn't measure the chainline, but it's not fantastic, especially in the two lowest gears, and it's especially noticeable when there's grit or mud on the chain. if i have time and remember, i'll check it out tomorrow.
 

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i'm running the bb mount gamut guide. i had to do some filing / milling to the top part of the guide (the white retainer bit) and the roller to keep the chain from being pushed from the large cog in the rear onto the next smaller one too. each part was spaced inboard as far as possible before i filed things.

i didn't measure the chainline, but it's not fantastic, especially in the two lowest gears, and it's especially noticeable when there's grit or mud on the chain. if i have time and remember, i'll check it out tomorrow.
Awesome, thanks. I am running an adapter and for the love of God it's a pain in the arse! Grind the adapter, grind the guide, grind the cranks, try 4 different BB and spindle lengths. I think we have settled on something now but my chainline is out too far for accurate low-gear shifting. My only other choice is to run the BB mounted guide but since there are no ISCG tabs I am very worried about the BB mounted guide back plate turning accidentally and tearing the hell out of the carbon BB shell. It just sits too close to the frame for my liking. At least with the adapter it is away from the frame ever so slightly even if the chainline sucks.

I think what I am gonna do is ride it as is for now and then machine a new ISCG adapter plate. This one will be the same as what I have now but it will be step-wise recessed backwards so it is close, but not touching the frame and will allow me to keep the guide close to the frame and also allow me to run the correct spindle length.


Stupid Q factor...:madmax:
 

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carbon 456 first ride

I took my carbon 456 out today for the first time and I am completely blown away at what a great bike it is . I have a carbon nomad and it will be hanging on my wall for awhile ! I have not ridden a HT in about 20 years and this bike tracks , handles , climbs and just rips . Like someone said before the only thing holding it back is the rider !

build :
18" carbon 456
2010 fox float 32 140mm rlc ( soon to be 2011 float 140 tapered steer tube )
smoothie headset
easton havoc stem and havoc carbon bars
dt swiss 1800 wheelset
elixir cr brakes
candy 3 pedals
1x9 32 tooth 11-34 rear cassette
slx crankset
bronson tcs all mountain 2.3 tires

24 lbs 9 oz

I will put up pics when I can
 

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