Between 190 and 185mm from the top with the springs out,fork and cartridges compressed.Stephen7 said:The guide that came with the fork doesn't say how much oil is to be used to fill up the fork and/or both sides etc. Any clue?
also internal damper rod is connected with top cap. How do you guys change the springs ? thanks.
Brian,Brian Peterson said:Between 190 and 185mm from the top with the springs out,fork and cartridges compressed.
The change the springs..
1) unthread the top cap.
2) Using two wrenches, one on the cap and one on the red lock nut, carefully remove the cap assembly from the cartridge.
3) This is where things can get tricky.... Remove the red lock from the cartridge. Sometimes this may lock itself against the end of the threads on the cartridge. If it does, you will need a set of vise blocks to hold the shaft to remove this.
4) Compress spring slightly to remove the preload clip. Don't lose this clip.
5) Remove preload cap and spring.
6) reverse the order for pitting it all together.
When replacing everything, 1) Just start the adjustment rod into the cartridge. You do not want to thread it in all the way. 2) Be careful when starting to thread the cap assembly on to the cartridge. Some people cross thread this and then try to force it. You will end up breaking expensive pieces of your fork.
If you don't feel confident in doing this, take it to a shop!!
Hey Mike, I've swapped springs on a few of these forks.........Dartman said:Brian,
I attempted to do this since I purchased heavier springs. Using a 10mm wrench I undid the red jam nut and screwed it down the shaft. Then carefully tried to unscrew the top cap from the shaft. After several turns the shaft was still turning and the top cap wasn't going anywhere. When I tried to remove the 10mm wrench I realized the red jam nut was expanding instead. Fearing it would split I reversed directions until the jam nut was back in place against the top cap and back to normal size. I tried again by first breaking loose the jam nut then holding the shaft in rubber jawed pliers I tried to remove the top cap. The sucker is jammed on there pretty good and I didn't want to clamp down so hard on the shaft fearing I would crush the hollow tube. I put everything back together and am very frustrated. I would figure you could run the top cap on a bit more than finger tight and lock it with the jam nut. Instead I find the top cap is torqued down so hard on the shaft from the factory the jam nut isn't necessary.
I live in an area where the LBS's don't have a clue on how to work on forks like these and I've been doing very well maintaining my own Marzocchi's since my first 98 Z1 BAM. I really miss the maintenance instructions in the manual. Racing downhill bikes is kind of like skydiving where you are packing your own parachute and I'm uneasy letting anyone else work on my stuff.
Thanks but I need it to race on next week at Snowshoe. I'm beginning to regret buying this fork and selling my Shiver. I'm going to give them a call Monday and see what they can do. I was thinking of making my own vise block out of aluminum block at work tomorrow and see how that works. I don't think I hurt the fork yet as the locknut returned to normal size after I backed it off the shaft. If I can't get the springs out I'll just have to run it as is.Castle said:Hey Mike, I've swapped springs on a few of these forks.........
I got my own, and I have the tools (soft jawed vice blocks) from marzocchi, and still had the same exact problem you did, my fork is at marzocchi right now letting them do it, I was putting way too much effort/force on the cart. rod and was in fear of breaking it. (if the consumer breaks it, he/she pays for it, if marzocchi breaks it while in there hands they pay for it)
You sound like you took yours even further, I would just suggest sending it back in, this is not a user friendly serviceable fork like other marzocchi's in the passed, I deffinatly think they dropped the ball there........... if they argue otherwise, I'd highly disagree, as I've seen a few broken cart's already and tons of pissed off consumers, not able to dial/tune there fork. (which is something owners of a fork of this nature are known to do)
I would think they would make a tool, other than just these lil vice blocks that would enable you to remove the jamnut/top cap much easier/safer..... it seems as if they are just asking to piss a bunch of people off......... already talked to a few who went to different fork companies after selling there 888's because of this.........
my .02 cents is I'd send it in, let Ronnie work on it, IMO he's the only person in Zocchi Tech that actually knows what's goin on....... let him do some "works" stuff on it while it's there my as well make it worth it's trip and your time off the bike/fork........ hope this helps.....
now with a fork like the Fox DH fork comin out, I'd think Zocchi would need to step it up......
p.s.-I was told a hair differently on the fork oil heigth....... than what Brian P. has mentioned, I was told the stock heigth is 180 and the raised safe heigth is 170.......
I just finished changing the oil in mine. After unjaming the jam nut the top caps were still tight and I was not able to hold the damper rod tight enough with just pliers and a piece of rubber. I ended up making some blocks out pine. I just drilled a 1/4 inch hole though center, split it then threw it in the vice around the damper rod and let the wood deform to shape. That held the rod tight enough to break the top cap loose. It was not as much trouble as people have been making it out to be Im sure with a little more effort you'll have that thing apart just fine.Dartman said:Thanks but I need it to race on next week at Snowshoe. I'm beginning to regret buying this fork and selling my Shiver. I'm going to give them a call Monday and see what they can do. I was thinking of making my own vise block out of aluminum block at work tomorrow and see how that works. I don't think I hurt the fork yet as the locknut returned to normal size after I backed it off the shaft. If I can't get the springs out I'll just have to run it as is.
Yes, Marzocchi needs to step it up. They took away the service instructions from the end user and say to take it to a authorized dealer for service and none of the LBS's in my area have had any training or service instructions provided to them except what they can get over the phone.
I've got a bunch of their forks. A '98 Z1 BAM, a Monster T, Shiver( sold), Super T and a Marathon S, I even got a pic of me wearing a Marzocchi race jersey in the Snowshoe Mountain Bike park flyer and trail map. I'm their No. 1 fan but I'm getting ready to jump ship if things keep going like they are.