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Crazed Country Rebel
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6,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Forgot to tell you.

Took about 20 minutes with a dremel and awl. Opted for 4 mil housing for obvious reasons.

To those thinking about solid housing. DO IT.
 

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My frame's packed away and difficult to get to at the moment - are all the parts you had to modify easily replaceable, or is anything attached permanently to the frame? I'm wondering what kind of risk I'd be taking in trying it.
 

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aka dan51
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6,022 Posts
kestrel242 said:
My frame's packed away and difficult to get to at the moment - are all the parts you had to modify easily replaceable, or is anything attached permanently to the frame? I'm wondering what kind of risk I'd be taking in trying it.
Parts are not replaceable. They look like they are glued/riveted to the frame.
Just take your time if you're gonna do it. If using drill bits, start small and slowly work up. I used 4 different bits in the process. A dremel would be much better.
 

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Crazed Country Rebel
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6,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
monkies said:
I'm thinking of going this route but I really didn't want to buy a $80 tool for this job...u guys think u can use a rounded file to do this???
No reason why not.

Take your time and be careful. You can over torque the cable stopsm making them come loose, if you use any sort of tool with leverage.

I would not recomend using a drill as the space is tight. Using a dremel allows you to work the inside of the stops.

This decision forced me to reconsider using 4 millimeter housing - which means much less work than using 5 millimeter housing.

Will post some pics later.
 

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Crazed Country Rebel
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
iheartbicycles said:
No reason why not.

Take your time and be careful. You can over torque the cable stopsm making them come loose, if you use any sort of tool with leverage.

I would not recomend using a drill as the space is tight. Using a dremel allows you to work the inside of the stops.

This decision forced me to reconsider using 4 millimeter housing - which means much less work than using 5 millimeter housing.

Will post some pics later.
Here's pics. Eat your heart out, Derby!!:thumbsup:
 

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aka übermensch
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309 Posts
I was also contemplating on whether or not to run full housing. In the end, I decided not to. Basically, I really didn't feel like drilling anything out. However, I did use a Jagwire Ripcord kit, which is fully lined to keep dirt out. I think it turned out pretty well.
 

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aka übermensch
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309 Posts
kestrel242 said:
Err, what's the rationale behind putting your chainstay protector on your seatstay?
That's actually an extra chainstay protector that I put on there. I think I read somewhere that you can still get chainslap on your seatstay. And I know it must be true because I read it on the internet. :p

My chainstay protector with the Ibis and DW Link logo was off when I took the picture. Was in the process of cleaning my bike.
 

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So jagwire sells this pseudo continuous housing kit eh...anybody have an issues with it? Hmmm now I'm wondering if drilling out is worth it...

Regarding the chainstay up there...I have chips galore there due to the chain slapping against it so I've been thinking the same thing.
 

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Eduardo Naranja
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479 Posts
I'm running Avid Flak Jacket cables on my bike (not Mojo - yet). It's very low maintenance. Maybe it's a bit of a pain to install but definitely less work than drilling that shyte out. Do you guys not like those or do they not work / fit on the Mojo?

 

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takes about an hour

xls said:
I'm running Avid Flak Jacket cables on my bike (not Mojo - yet). It's very low maintenance. Maybe it's a bit of a pain to install but definitely less work than drilling that shyte out. Do you guys not like those or do they not work / fit on the Mojo?

Did it in October. With good cable cutters and an awl takes an hour max. And the red looks nice.
 
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