so I just built a wheel for my SS that has a flip-flop hub. Ive got a suicide hub on my roadie, and it works fine (I dont skid or anything) Is there any reason I cant use one on my MTB?
No, there is no reason why you can't use it. You're allowed to ride whatever you want, however you want. That said, there's a reason it's called a 'suicide hub.'FlatFender said:so I just built a wheel for my SS that has a flip-flop hub. Ive got a suicide hub on my roadie, and it works fine (I dont skid or anything) Is there any reason I cant use one on my MTB?
Most of the failures are due to the cog not being on tight enough in the first place, the lockring being tightened, then you go for a ride and the cog tightens but the lockring doesn't, you get some play, and the hub eventually strips.MellowCat said:I read accounts of the threads stripping out on the even on fixed hubs when used offroad. I guess the extra torque of the lower gears used offroad in combination with alot more skidding/slowing down is very hard on the threads.
A suicide hub is a freewheel hub used a fixed gear hub. Using a BB lockring. Since both are right-hand threads, they don't work against each other and under enough torque they will both thread loose. In worst-case scenarios, the cog becomes completely free, the rider loses control and ... Thus "suicide hub".2xPneu said:
I would be careful using a chainwhip with an extension like this...that is a lot more torque than you will ever (even in low gearing) apply with your legs. I have broken (sheared) a steel EAI track cog with a chainwhip on installation. Since then, I simply use anti-seize (automotive), tighten the cog real good with a chainwhip, install the lockring also with anti-seize and a good Kozan lockring tool, and then ride up a good sized hill, dismount with no backpedaling, and further tighten the lockring. On the first couple of rides I will avoid hard backpedaling and check the lockring again, tighten as necessary.2xPneu said:Best way to mount is use antisieze on the cog threads, use a chainwhip with an extension and tighten the cog down hard, then loctite the lockring on.
I have a Phil FreeFlipFreeFlop that I have set up FixedFixed with both a 26" wheel and a 700c...no problems at all. I am about 180lbs. and really don't skid too much. If you are heavy and react to the bike in a hurky jerky way that would add stress to the threads and could result in failure?! My buddy at the shop is a hella good mechanic as well, he put a surly cog on either side with a lockring and it works great. He tried a EAI cog and the base was too wide and would not allow a lock ring. I have had good luck with the SurlyPhil combo.FlatFender said:so I just built a wheel for my SS that has a flip-flop hub. Ive got a suicide hub on my roadie, and it works fine (I dont skid or anything) Is there any reason I cant use one on my MTB?
This tired old saw always comes up in these discussions.Traktor said:Do it as cheaply as possible because you'll try it for a short time and probably realize that fixed mtb riding has a lot of limitations.