[Spaceman-Spiff]

I own a 2007 Revelation Dual Air U_Turn, and recently purchased the Service Kits for Motion Control and Dual Air legs (paid 20 Euro for each):

11.4015.250.000 05-08 Reba/06-09 Recon/06-09 Revelation/05-10 Pike Motion Control Service Kit
11.4015.263.000 05-10 Reba/06-09 Revelation/05-10 Pike Air U-Turn Service Kit

I just measured the O-Rings in the kits and matched the measurements to a valid size in an O-Ring Catalog, and this is the listing of the O-Rings sizes:

Motion Control:
1 x 23.81 x 2.62
1 x 12.29 x 3.53
1 x 25.07 x 2.62
1 x 22 x 2.50

Air U-Turn:
1 x 10 x 3
1 x 25.07 x 2.62
4 x 19 x 3
1 x 6 x 2.50
1 x 12 x 2.50

First number is quantity, second number is inner diameter, and third number is thickness, both in mm.

I have to point out that I measured the brand new O-Rings in the kits, so these sizes are more precise than when somebody takes apart the fork and measures the already worn O-Rings and get wrong sizes.

I already purchased a new set of O-Rings and compared with the ones in the kits, and they match perfectly. You can get them all for less than 3 Euro and save a few bucks.

Enjoy.

 

[vk45de]

I don't know where you buy o rings in 23.81x2.62mm... but I can only find then in .5mm increments.
Here's the measurements I got out of my Recon solo air. Ignore solo air side. Motion control should be the same.

 

[Spaceman-Spiff]

It is possible to buy O- Ring 23.81 x 2.62, I bought them here:

 

[Ratt]

Maybe an engineer can chime in here but there are 2 different o'ring sizing standards, the one Nasa started and the euro one. They can seem similar but they don't really interchange that well, at least not in high pressure pnuematic valves.

However in this application I don't think super exact sizing is all that important and the originals are probably standard buna 70 nitrile.

 

[Drth Vadr]

It's not that complicated.

 

[pipes10]

Would be great to have a thread on the various o-ring sizes for different forks. I ttried to get the o-rings for my Lyrik and Totem sized by an online o-ring supplier but they said they were odd sizes. They never did get back to me on what the sizes were though.

 

[Dougal]

Maybe an engineer can chime in here but there are 2 different o'ring sizing standards, the one Nasa started and the euro one. They can seem similar but they don't really interchange that well, at least not in high pressure pnuematic valves.

However in this application I don't think super exact sizing is all that important and the originals are probably standard buna 70 nitrile.

I have no idea about nasa vs euro or other US standard sizes.
But there are two British Standards for O-rings.

BS4518 is metric
BS1806 is imperial.

 

[jrn]

Which O-rings go at the bottom of the motion control damper? I'm looking to fix the leak causing the lockout to fail.


EDIT: sorry, didn't see the picture yet.

 

[PissedOffCil]

I'm looking to change all my o-rings on my '08 Reba because I have a leaking pos.air. Are the o-rings on the Dual Air the same as the Solo Air pictured above? If not, can anybody point to the right sizes please?

Thanks.

 

[assaf_angel]

dual air reba orings are #211 * 2 pcs+10*3 * 1 pcs

I'm looking to change all my o-rings on my '08 Reba because I have a leaking pos.air. Are the o-rings on the Dual Air the same as the Solo Air pictured above? If not, can anybody point to the right sizes please?

Thanks.

:thumbsup: @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

 

[PissedOffCil]

this 211?

http://www.amazon.com/211-O-Ring-Durometer-Black-Width/dp/B000FN0W7I

Thanks mate!

Edit: It seems to be roughly the same as mentionned in post #2 (20.22 * 3.53) Good!

 

[assaf_angel]

yes

this 211?

http://www.amazon.com/211-O-Ring-Durometer-Black-Width/dp/B000FN0W7I

Thanks mate!

Edit: It seems to be roughly the same as mentionned in post #2 (20.22 * 3.53)

#######################################################################

 

[jaysix79]

I'm looking to change all my o-rings on my '08 Reba because I have a leaking pos.air. Are the o-rings on the Dual Air the same as the Solo Air pictured above? If not, can anybody point to the right sizes please?

Thanks.

I had the same problem but I fixed mine with 5 ml motor oil i used 5w20 should've use thicker oil but thats all i have laying around.

pretty easy... all you have to do is let all the air out.. open up the top chamber with 24mm socket.... it could be 23mm not sure.. dump about 5ml motor oil in it and it should seal it up... if you read the manual the trouble shooting will tell you put put 3-5ml suspension oil in the top chamber to seal leakage......

I used motor oil cause its sticker than suspension oil and it help seal the air better..... for sealing a leak i don't think it should be a probalem but on the oil side i recommend using fork oil because they do have some additives to stop foaming... if you wanna be safe go ahead and use fork oil on the chamber side... they say use 5w.. maybe go thicker on that side if you want to use fork oil.... you can also buy fork oil (suspension oil) at a motor cycle shop cheap.....

some may say don't use motor oil cause its bad for the o ring... I dont think it's bad because engine have gaskets and or o rings in them and they dont have any problem unless they are over 100k .. this place actually recommend motor oil to rebuild the reba forks...

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id48.html

 

[mtnbiker4life]

I have no idea about nasa vs euro or other US standard sizes.
But there are two British Standards for O-rings.

BS4518 is metric
BS1806 is imperial.

In the USA we use

AS568
MIL-HDBK-692
MIL-HDBK-695
Parker Oring Hand Book http://www.parker.com/literature/O-Ring Division Literature/ord5710.pdf

 

[PissedOffCil]

I can find Spectro Fork Oil 15w easily nearby. A tad thinker than the "official" RS oil.
I was planning on changing the o-rings since I'll also disconnect the spring for the remote lockout and install a manual lockout knob. At that point, it's a matter of extra seconds to change the o-rings while the fork is completely disassembled.

I had the same problem but I fixed mine with 5 ml motor oil i used 5w20 should've use thicker oil but thats all i have laying around.

pretty easy... all you have to do is let all the air out.. open up the top chamber with 24mm socket.... it could be 23mm not sure.. dump about 5ml motor oil in it and it should seal it up... if you read the manual the trouble shooting will tell you put put 3-5ml suspension oil in the top chamber to seal leakage......

I used motor oil cause its sticker than suspension oil and it help seal the air better..... for sealing a leak i don't think it should be a probalem but on the oil side i recommend using fork oil because they do have some additives to stop foaming... if you wanna be safe go ahead and use fork oil on the chamber side... they say use 5w.. maybe go thicker on that side if you want to use fork oil.... you can also buy fork oil (suspension oil) at a motor cycle shop cheap.....

some may say don't use motor oil cause its bad for the o ring... I dont think it's bad because engine have gaskets and or o rings in them and they dont have any problem unless they are over 100k .. this place actually recommend motor oil to rebuild the reba forks...

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id48.html

 

[Dougal]

In the USA we use

AS568
MIL-HDBK-692
MIL-HDBK-695
Parker Oring Hand Book http://www.parker.com/literature/O-Ring Division Literature/ord5710.pdf

Looks like the wrong link. That's a 6 page glossy with no product tables.

I think BS1086 and AS568 are similar if not identical. These are what I call the "dash" sized orings e.g. -117

 

[jaysix79]

cool I though you had no plan of opening the whole fork and doing a rebuild.. but in that case your better off doing the whole thing the proper way..... I'm just sharing my quick fix that still hold up till this day which saved me money and trip to LBS or delay form ordering parts.... good luck with your rebuild and ride safe....

I can find Spectro Fork Oil 15w easily nearby. A tad thinker than the "official" RS oil.
I was planning on changing the o-rings since I'll also disconnect the spring for the remote lockout and install a manual lockout knob. At that point, it's a matter of extra seconds to change the o-rings while the fork is completely disassembled.

 

[PissedOffCil]

cool I though you had no plan of opening the whole fork and doing a rebuild.. but in that case your better off doing the whole thing the proper way..... I'm just sharing my quick fix that still hold up till this day which saved me money and trip to LBS or delay form ordering parts.... good luck with your rebuild and ride safe....

I still have to order the o-rings so last evening I bought the oil and decided to have a quick look to the upper left leg. It was completely dry. I inserted a rag in and it came out dry. Yep it definitely needed oil so I put some in and it's holding up so I now have the time to order the o-rings and spares I need. It'll hold up until then! :thumbsup:

 

[jaysix79]

enjoy riding......

I still have to order the o-rings so last evening I bought the oil and decided to have a quick look to the upper left leg. It was completely dry. I inserted a rag in and it came out dry. Yep it definitely needed oil so I put some in and it's holding up so I now have the time to order the o-rings and spares I need. It'll hold up until then! :thumbsup:

 

[PissedOffCil]

While we're at it, what type (or material) o-rings should I get? Aren't they all black/rubber one ar are some silicone or another "funky" material?

Any improvement in getting a specific type?