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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My new rig has an NX Eagle drivetrain on it, and since I can't find any discussion of this elsewhere, and I'm relatively unfamiliar with the peculiarities of Eagle, I thought it was worth asking:

I noticed that the cassette spider with the 4 largest cogs is loose on the freehub to the point that it will rotate 5 or so degrees, relative to the rest of the cassette (and the freehub). The lockring is torqued properly, the rest of the cogs don't move around oddly, and none of them wobble at all... It's just the little bit of rotational play of the 4 largest cogs.

I suspect that it's not normal, since I've never seen it in anything similar in other cassettes. Has anyone else observed this?

Thanks!
 

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Only 1st through 4th gear rotates 5 degrees? Something sounds busted up. Five degrees of movement of the cassette (not the hub) seems like it would be unrideable. The slop to engagement between that and the hub has to be horrendous.


My NX cassette has zero slop. The hub is sloppy but the cassette (all the gears) are solid.
 

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Have you removed the cassette and reinstalled it? Sounds like it might not be aligned correctly on the back part of the cassette. It does come in separate pieces with the largest cogs being on a separate carrier from the rest of the cogs.
I'd take it off, look at the freehubs body to make sure it's not gouged or anything, then reinstall it. I'd maybe try seeing if installing it in a different orientation respective to the splices on the freehubs might get rid of that slop.
Definitely would not ride it like that, as if there IS that much slop and you climb anything serious, it'll be much more likely to chew up your freehub body.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, it's less than ideal! I did remove the cassette yesterday to check things out. It only aligns with the splines one way, so the alignment can't be wrong. There's not really any pronounced wear or gouging on the freehub body. It just seems like the spider was machined to have too loose of tolerance around the freehub splines, letting it wobble around. When I put the rest of the cogs on, and tighten the lockring, it restricts the movement to just rotation.

I did a short ride this morning, and the 4 to 5 transition is definitely rough. I'm going to drop it off at the shop today to see what they think.
 

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Yeah, it's less than ideal! I did remove the cassette yesterday to check things out. It only aligns with the splines one way, so the alignment can't be wrong. There's not really any pronounced wear or gouging on the freehub body. It just seems like the spider was machined to have too loose of tolerance around the freehub splines, letting it wobble around. When I put the rest of the cogs on, and tighten the lockring, it restricts the movement to just rotation.

I did a short ride this morning, and the 4 to 5 transition is definitely rough. I'm going to drop it off at the shop today to see what they think.
That sounds like something machined wrong on the carrier of your cassette. I couldn't imagine having that much slop, especially in gears you'd be using to climb with...actually, I could picture that being dangerous on a tech climb...
Hell, I changed to an Onyx rear hub so that I would have zero slack before engagement in any gear...expensive hub, but smooth and instant.
I took a look at that cassette images online, and it has some sort of weird shaped "slots" for how it fits to the freehub. I've never seen anything like that before with the angling. Might be just that your freehub has a bit of space between it allowing that slight rotation...
I'd check out a different cassette maker...there are some decent 12sp that use the standard non-xd mount that can be had around 50-100 bucks...

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Yeah, it's less than ideal! I did remove the cassette yesterday to check things out. It only aligns with the splines one way, so the alignment can't be wrong. There's not really any pronounced wear or gouging on the freehub body. It just seems like the spider was machined to have too loose of tolerance around the freehub splines, letting it wobble around. When I put the rest of the cogs on, and tighten the lockring, it restricts the movement to just rotation.

I did a short ride this morning, and the 4 to 5 transition is definitely rough. I'm going to drop it off at the shop today to see what they think.
So with the cassette removed, you can physically rotate the larger gears while holding the cassette in your hand with no rotation of the smaller stack of gears?
 

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So with the cassette removed, you can physically rotate the larger gears while holding the cassette in your hand with no rotation of the smaller stack of gears?
NX cassette is like old school Shimano. Has a spider with 3 largest cogs on it and then a bunch of individual rings. It's weird they did this setup compared to how the GX-XX1 cassettes are put together...
But this is the only one that fits a hyperglide freehub body

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Do you, by any chance, have a hub that can accept road 11 speed cassettes? Such hubs have a wider freehub and if you install a mountain cassette on such hub there is going to be just a touch of play in the cassette.
Right. If you have a 11sp road compatible freehub, you will need a 1.85mm spacer behind a 11 speed mtb cassette.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Right. If you have a 11sp road compatible freehub, you will need a 1.85mm spacer behind a 11 speed mtb cassette.
It turns out this is exactly what was wrong. The shop dropped a spacer in there, re-torqued, and all was right with the world. I suppose I discounted this possibility for a couple of reasons: 1) Usually, when the spacer is missing, none of the cogs are particularly stable on the freehub. But, in this case, the smaller cogs were... it was just the spider with the largest cogs that wasn't. 2) I sort of assumed that the since the bike is new, and there was no spacer, that the spacing of the Eagle cassette didn't need one for a hyperglide freehub.
 

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I have this same issue. The bike is fairly new, barely worn out the first chain on it. I noticed 0.5-1.0 mm of rotational play on the NX cassette large cogs block, and here is how the freehub looks like. I am not an experienced bike mechanic, would you advise the replacement of the freehub and/or cassette? Or just try adding a spacer?

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I had this exact issue with a SRAM NX 12 speed cassette on my Hope Pro 4 hub. The largest 4 rings are carried on one spider gear and had slop and rattled on the hub. It didn't damage anything but the sound was annoying. I ordered a spacer set on Amazon... search: "3 Pcs 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm Bike Flywheel Hub Spacer Washer Gasket". There are a bunch of options around $10 or $12. I pulled the cassette, installed the 1mm spacer behind the cassette, and re-snugged everything. The rattling, slop, and noise is completely gone. This is the exact fix for that issue. You do need to check rear derailleur adjustments (obviously) because the entire cassette is shifted towards the right ~1mm.

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I have this same issue. The bike is fairly new, barely worn out the first chain on it. I noticed 0.5-1.0 mm of rotational play on the NX cassette large cogs block, and here is how the freehub looks like. I am not an experienced bike mechanic, would you advise the replacement of the freehub and/or cassette? Or just try adding a spacer?

View attachment 1925535
I see no need to replace that free hub body or cassette.... just install the 1mm spacer behind cassette and the slop will be gone.
 

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I noticed 0.5-1.0 mm of rotational play on the NX cassette large cogs block, and here is how the freehub looks like. I am not an experienced bike mechanic, would you advise the replacement of the freehub and/or cassette? Or just try adding a spacer?

View attachment 1925535
Looks normal from here. 0.5-1.00mm of play sounds fine to me for a budget part like this. Tighten it up... see what happens.
 

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I had slop and noise in the largest 4 rings on my NX cassette. The rings' spider is worn as you can see in the picture. I don't think an additional spacer will address this. I stopped the noise by removing the dork disk, but the cassette really needs to be replaced.

Tim

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