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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been an admirer of the little Hammond 1455 boxes for some years and have used them for various electronics projects. It's no surprise that I picked up on the Easy DIY thread and did my own version using a couple of Q5 LEDs, a spot and an elliptical optic.

When Troutie recently presented his XPE helmet light, a long-standing idea fell into focus. I have always thought that it would make sense to use the long side of the box as the front of a light, but I didn't think it possible to drill the 20mm holes required for traditional optics. Now, with the tiny 10mm optics for the XPE LEDs, this became possible, and all that is needed is a slot of just over 10mm high.

I got in touch with Troutie and he kindly offered to carry out the machine work that I couldn't easily do with hand tools. The result is a novel use of the Hammond case, and below are the first pictures of this new project. I will keep this thread updated as I proceed with the build during the next few days.

These pictures show the machined case, also showing the internal recess that Troutie created for me to fit a Lexan window cut from an unused bike helmet visor. He also made the excellent heat sink that will fit inside the box once I've fitted and wired the LEDs. It will be driven by a MaxFlex, mounted on the little square post Troutie formed at the rear of the heat sink.









Oops, I forgot the photo showing the internal machining:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
troutie-mtb said:
:thumbsup:

Happy to help out there Neil

That is going to be one Nice Build.

How thick is the stuff from the motorcycle visor ?
If you hadn't offered your help it would never have flown ;)

The visor material is 1mm thick according to my traditional micrometer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Progress continues slowly because of domestic chores that take precedence!

I had to drill access holes for the LED wiring (just visible at each end of the channel), for mounting the heat sink in the case, and for the Electron mount to attach to the case.

The XPEs are attached to the heat sink with Arctic Silver and the MaxFlex is similarly attached. I'm not fussed about the Artctic Silver that has flowed beyond the mounting area because it's supposed to be non-conductive :thumbsup: Next comes the fiddly task of wiring the XPEs down in their channel.



 

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......... Artic silver info

Say what? domestic chores!!..... forget that ironing, leave them dirty pots and pans, no more vacuum cleaning, ....:)
you could have made a simple jig to wire em up before hand, then drop them in
the solder pads at the top/bottom may have been easier to work on?
..... looking good :thumbsup:
...
 

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neilt said:
Progress continues slowly because of domestic chores that take precedence!
Damn, I hear you there! I probably spend an average of less than 15 minutes a day on my light projects, between the 2 jobs, all the crap that needs to be done at home, and the annoying need to sleep :sleep: Should have a build report on my first one up any day now I hope. (not nearly as cool as these multi XP-E projects though!)

The Arctic Silver Adhesive specs do say to avoid contact with "electrical traces, pins, and leads". You should be OK though....it doesn't look like it's bridged any connections. I went with Arctic Alumina Adhesive, it's claimed to be an electrical insulator.

Looking good. Is that the same optic selection that Troutie posted a beamshot of yesterday? Going to be a bright little thing, isn't it? :thumbsup:

JZ
 

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That's a nice build there neilt! I like the way you've mounted the maxFlex.

I happen to know a bit about those domestic chores too; those little tasks like painting & repairing flood damage just have to come first sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:
......... Artic silver info

Say what? domestic chores!!..... forget that ironing, leave them dirty pots and pans, no more vacuum cleaning, ....:)
you could have made a simple jig to wire em up before hand, then drop them in
the solder pads at the top/bottom may have been easier to work on?
..... looking good :thumbsup:
...
The chore is to clean up my home office which I've been using for nigh on 20 years. Time to clear out the crap and redecorate and refurnish!

As for the wiring, I intend to use an old trick from my electronics engineering days, which will become apparent in the next set of photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
JimZinVT said:
The Arctic Silver Adhesive specs do say to avoid contact with "electrical traces, pins, and leads". You should be OK though....it doesn't look like it's bridged any connections. I went with Arctic Alumina Adhesive, it's claimed to be an electrical insulator.

Looking good. Is that the same optic selection that Troutie posted a beamshot of yesterday? Going to be a bright little thing, isn't it? :thumbsup:

JZ
The Arctic products are non-conductive, but are slightly capacitive, hence the advice about bridging traces. I doubt that any tiny overlap will cause a problem in this circuit, although it is advised that potting these drivers could cause problems.

The optics are exactly what Troutie used - I'm expecting it to be a very useful little light for road and trail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
troutie-mtb said:
Looking good there Neil .

The 2 eliptical optics have made a nice upgrade to the spread which I like .

One small point and I am not sure if it is valid
I put the elipticals in the centre , the reason was as these things ars so tiny I didnot want the side of the recess masking the spill of the elips
Ah, good thinking on the elliptical optics. I was thinking about that at the weekend. The channel is a perfect fit and the optics don't need gluing in, so I will be able to experiment with placement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, that's the most fiddly bit complete. All the XPEs are now joined up and flying leads attached at the ends of the chain. I stripped some silver-plated Kynar wire, hanging around from my days of doing wire wrapped board construction. It's nice stuff, solid core and stays where you put it!

Should all be downhill from here :)

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It Lives!

All assembled for testing, but needs thermal compound applying to the heat sink before real use.

Pardon the blurry shot showing it turned on - the light intensity completely b*****s up the auto focus on my little pocket camera!





You could say I'm dead chuffed :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Your title is way out

Bloody Hell Neil.
I was just going to comment about your soldering
and wham there it is finished .:thumbsup:

What was not so easy there .

Very tidy .

What is your first impressions out in the dark then.

Where is it going ? Helmet

Be interested in the heat report when used in anger on the trail .
 

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Well done Neil. That is a super tidy build :thumbsup: Congratulations on thinking outside the box, no, inside the box, no wait, sideways in the box ???

I will be really interested to hear how it handles the heat aswell. SInce the maxflex is protecting the LED's it is a mute point really. What drive current are you planning to run it at?

oh and before msxtr jumps in:

BEAM SHOTS!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
troutie-mtb said:
Bloody Hell Neil.
I was just going to comment about your soldering
and wham there it is finished .:thumbsup:

What was not so easy there .

Very tidy .

What is your first impressions out in the dark then.

Where is it going ? Helmet

Be interested in the heat report when used in anger on the trail .
I hope you were going to say nice things about my soldering ;)

It's going to be a bar light - I do most of my riding on roads at the moment and have found a helmet light a bit dangerous for car drivers - I keep looking at them!!!

First impression was "Bloody hell, the garden does look bright despite the rain!"

I will get around to some beam shots, but I'll probably wait for things to dry up a little first. Hopefully it should look very similar to yours.

It took some time to fully understand the MaxFlex UI and I had some weird and wonderful strobe effects at one point. But I think I have it sorted now. I'm running at 700mA and have left most settings on default, so the over temp setting is 50C (I believe).

At this point I must add that this project would never have flown had it not been for Troutie's help. Chris, many many thanks for your assistance. :band:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ocean breathes salty said:
Well done Neil. That is a super tidy build :thumbsup: Congratulations on thinking outside the box, no, inside the box, no wait, sideways in the box ???

I will be really interested to hear how it handles the heat aswell. SInce the maxflex is protecting the LED's it is a mute point really. What drive current are you planning to run it at?

oh and before msxtr jumps in:

BEAM SHOTS!!!
Thanks Salty.

Setting it up at the default 350mA the case barely got warm. It's now set on 700mA and I suspect it won't be too bad - certainly while moving. I have bought a couple of little heatsinks designed to stick onto 24 pin ICs, and will glue them to the case bottom if it does heat up too much. As you say, the MaxFlex should protect the system well enough anyway.

Beam shots when it dries out a little and I have some time to get out into the Forest :)
 
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