Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my pair of Kenda Nevegals today ~ 26" x 2.1's on both front and rear...things look mean!! I thought I would have a lot more trouble than I did getting the tires on and off, especially due to them being folding tires and not exactly in tire shape at the start...but I did it!! I attached some pic's.

One thing...on the prior tubes the presta valves seemed shorter than the ones on the tubes I replaced...Are these things abnormally high or what? If so...how can I bring them in more?

Can't wait to hit the trails this weekend on these new bad boys!! :thumbsup:
 

Attachments

·
Formerly NattyBoh74...
Joined
·
556 Posts
i was always under the impression that folding tires are lighter and can be mounted more easily. all of my folding tires go on easy but my wire beads are a pain in the ass. but good job, and valves can vary between manu's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, it was quite easy...it was just kinda strange at first with the folding tire not holding form and trying to keep everything in line...but very easy!! Can't wait to ride um'!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,109 Posts
Presta valves do come in 2 lengths (I don't recall what they are exactly off the top of my head). Looks like you may have the longer ones on your current setup. No big deal at all, doesn't matter one way or another. The longer ones aren't as common, that's why they may look odd.

Cheers, Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,878 Posts
i think 34mm and 60mm are the two presta stem sizes. i dont like the long stem ones, can be a pain to get through the rim hole when changing tires and tubes. plus the long stems must add at least 1 gram of rotating mass, thats gonna really slow you down:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have my own mass to worry about...a little valve isn't gonna make much of a difference! haha
 

·
ravingbikefiend
Joined
·
2,322 Posts
To become a tire changing jedi you have to try work on vintage wheels with steel rims and new 1 3/8 tires or install some of those wire beadeded Kenda Kinetix... you'll really feel like you've really accomplished something after you've snapped off a few tire levers and invented a few new swear words but have tires that are ready to run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No thanks...it was too easy of an experience yesterday eve to try anything else! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,083 Posts
From you pictures I can't tell in what direction you mounted the Nevegels.

Take a look at the knobs they have ramps on one side.

I mount the rear so that when I am diriving hard the sharp edge (non ramp) is the leading edge bites in. (Better traction Climbing)

I mount the front so that when I am braking hard the sharp edge ( non ramp) is the leading edge. (Better traction Braking)

So they are mounted in different directions.

Experiment people run them different ways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I mounted both front and rear in the suggested direction of roll on the tire itself...
 

·
No good in rock gardens..
Joined
·
4,450 Posts
Tip:

Mount the tyres so a conspicuous part of the brand / label lines up with the valve.

If you flat due to an object you can see in your tyre - (stick, thorn, etc) it's easier to find the hole in the tube - with the tube out you just line the valve up with your tyre label and you will be very close to where the hole is when you want to patch it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the tip...I would have never of thought of that. I guess in my newbieness I would be less inclined to patch and more inclined to simply pull the tube and replace...but I guess it depends on the circumstances...
 

·
pronounced may-duh
Joined
·
4,306 Posts
The longer presta valves are for deep aero rims. But will work on any rim. Another tip: coating the tube with talcum powder helps it slide into position when mouting and keeps it from getting twisted and pinched when inflating.

Whats up with all those spacers under your stem? Do you like having your bars higher than your seat?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am not sure on the spacers...I think it is just one big spacer...but not sure...but that is how the bike was built when I bought it...so haven't really thought about it too much.

It doesn't bother me right now when I ride...not sure what advantage I would personally have if my bars were lower...but would love to hear thoughts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,109 Posts
You can experiment with it -- in the end, it all comes down to what is comfortable for you. That being said, there's a lot of info on bike fitting out there.

Most recommend that for basic XC riding, you want your seat slightly higher than your bars. I've seen ~10cm higher thrown out there most often, but different guides say different things.

Couple of options for you. You can move some spacers from below your stem (as you have it now) to above your stem, and/or you can flip your stem over (so it doesn't "angle up" as much). If you move spacers above your stem and find you really dig that, you could then take your fork off and cut down your steerer tube so that it looks cleaner overall, but many people don't do that in case they want to resell or reuse the fork on a different bike later.

I keep all of my spacers below the stem, but flipped my stem. It's not really flipping it; they are designed to be used either way, but will most often come assembled on a bike at the highest pitch-up angle.

Of course, don't do any of that until you are certain your seat height is set properly. Again, do whatever's comfortable, but a good starting point is that you should still have a slight bend at the knee when your pedal is at the 6 o'clock position. If you are rocking your hips as you pedal, then it is definitely too high.

Oh, and I definitely second the talc-on-tubes thing. I just use talc baby powder and sprinkle in on the tubes (even the spares I have packed), pat the loose stuff off, and good to go. Works very nice!

Cheers, Chris
 

·
pronounced may-duh
Joined
·
4,306 Posts
Try something radical. Take all the spacers and put them on top of the stem. From the looks of things this will lower your bars by 2". Go for a ride and feel the difference. If you like it, keep it. If it was better but too much, put some spacers on top and some under until you find whats right for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
But what is the actual "spacer" I mean...are you talking about the bottom of the headset or stem? I think it is just one piece...I think
 

·
pronounced may-duh
Joined
·
4,306 Posts
PanicFan77 said:
But what is the actual "spacer" I mean...are you talking about the bottom of the headset or stem? I think it is just one piece...I think
Your spacers are on the steerer tube between the stem and the headset. First remove the top cap then remove the stem and the spacers. Careful, without your stem, the fork can just fall out the bottom. Then reinstall the stem without the spacers and leave the pinch bolts loose. Install the spacers over the stem then install the top cap. Adjust the top cap to make the whole stack tight but not binding then tighten the pinch bolts on the stem to keep it all solid. This should be very easy and take no more then 20 min. If you run into trouble check back here with a question and possibly a photo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I might take some pics pointing to things and post and ask questions before I dive in. I have the Zinn book...so I am sure that would have info. on it as well...any special tools I would need for this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,109 Posts
It may be just one piece (spacer). It's the cylindrical "sleeve" between your stem and headset that your fork's steerer tube goes through.

Most of the time, there are 3 or 4 "thinner" ones (some/all may be different sizes even) specifically so that you can mix-and-match heights to suit your taste. If yours is just one piece, you can order a few thinner ones that would stack up to the same height, and then you have some flexibility. They are not very expensive or anything, and your LBS should have plenty around. If you just Google "headset spacers", you'll see what I mean...

Cheers, Chris
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top