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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this isn't 29er specific but I just bought a canzo frame and was planning on swapping over as much of my cobia parts as possible. I am mechanically inclined (metal fabrications, I build off road toys, cars, etc) but I can't say I have ever built up a bike.

So.. do I need any special tools? TIA...
 

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A good set of allen wrenches (I like Bondhus), grease, chain breaker (to re-size chain if required; get a small Park one and it can be your take-along tool, too), cable cutter. Headset tools (cup press, crown race setter but- you can borrow or fabricate all these). Pedal wrench is handy but not required. Most other things you probably already have.

I can't speak to bottom bracket and brakes, since my stuff here is all old-school. I'm thinking that it used to be bottom brackets needed special tools and brakes didn't, but that may be reversed now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a chain breaker on my trail tool set, no problem there. Lots of hand tools but no headset tools. If there pressed in are they hard to get out (in other words should I just buy a new one?). No problem on the brakes, there simple. Thanks!
 

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You will need a few items that you can't get out of a normal automotive tool box.

1. Bottom bracket tool that matches your current BB. If you have three piece cranks then you might need a crank arm puller too.
2. Cable cutter or a dremel tool with a cut off wheel for new cable housings
3. If you want to remove or change the cassette, you need a socket that fits the cassette retaining nut
4. I like having a set of the 6 sided sockets as 3/8" drive so I can use my ratchets.
5. An inch-pound torque wrench and one that can reach 40Nm for the cassette
6. I use a brass punch to knock out the headset races and two blocks of wood and a large bar clamp to install them, but they make specific tools for the jobs.
7. A tubing cutter if you are going to install a new fork, or be really good with a hacksaw.

I think that's it. Have fun! :thumbsup:
 

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BrandonMiller said:
I have a chain breaker on my trail tool set, no problem there. Lots of hand tools but no headset tools. If there pressed in are they hard to get out (in other words should I just buy a new one?). No problem on the brakes, there simple. Thanks!
The bearings come out easily, as they just drop in. But the bearing cups are pressed into the frame. No problem to re-use.

Different people have different priorities on which headset tools they'll get and which they'll just borrow or work around. The main things you need to do are:
1- get the bearing cups out of the old frame
2- get the crown race off of the fork (only if you are using a different fork)
3- press the crown race onto the new fork
4- press the cups into the new frame

I use this tool for #1:
http://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover
But you may just get a shop to do this for you. $5-$10, probably. Or try a long screwdriver. I forget exactly what I used before, I just know I like using this thing (they call it a "rocket tool" because of the shape).

#2 does fine with a flat-blade screwdriver, if you are careful. Just put the top of the fork upside down on a piece of wood and tap the crown race off by alternating front and rear taps.

For #3, I found some sort of chromed pipe fitting at a hardware store that works for this. It just has to slide over the head tube and contact the inside lip of the crown race.

For #4, I use a piece of threaded rod, two big bolts to fit, and two large washers. Rod through head tube, headset cups over rod top and bottom, washers on top of cups, finger-tighten the nuts, then finally wrench tighten the nuts to press the cups in. You just have to make sure to go very slowly so as not to get the cups in crooked. It seems like they want to go in crooked, so you have to back off and start over a number of times, probably. It can help to whack them with a rubber mallet if they're in slightly crooked, then go back to the nut method. #4 actually works fine if you are patient. The shop tools are just faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
allright, got the headset parts swapped over only to find that my steer tube is too short, oops..

I used a brass drift to get em out and then a flat plate and a hammer to push them in. Ended up ordering a Drake front fork and a Cane Creek S3 headset, still waiting for it.

Just figured out how to remove the bottom bracket/cranks. Now the old frame was wider about a quarter inch at the bottom bracket than the new canzo so the threaded part sticks out - what am I supposed to do, split the threads or just not use it or ?

Next I can't figure out how to get the cable out of the shifter at the housing, shimano deore. I took off a top cover and then a bottom cover. It can't be that tricky..
 

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It may be better to get a tool kit like this one:

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/14...ools/Sette-Torx-ST-21-Tool-Kit---21-Tools.htm

Or ones from Nashbar. If you've got the cash, Park is nice. I started with a little kit and over the years, swapped them to Park. Park's site also has some good instructions and vids. If you can't find it on there, YouTube is a great tool.

BrandonMiller said:
Just figured out how to remove the bottom bracket/cranks. Now the old frame was wider about a quarter inch at the bottom bracket than the new canzo so the threaded part sticks out - what am I supposed to do, split the threads or just not use it or ?
So the threaded part of the BB (bottom bracket) sticks out? Then you want to get a new BB to fit your new frame. Your old frame is probably a 73mm shell and the Canzo is 68mm. So you'd want a 68mm x whatever spindle length is correct for your cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
gotcha, so get a new bottom bracket or....... new crankset with BB :)

Off to research cranksets and BB's. Looks like I can get a shimano BB from performance for $20 or a raceface XC complete crankset with BB for $100. Current setup is some really heavy stock bontrager. What to do what to do..

EDIT: this is only $100 with everything, Is it junk? What am I looking for in a crankset?
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/18...e-Ride-XC-Crankset-22-32-44-W/BB-Blk-175m.htm

TIA
 

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RaceFace (RIP) cranksets aren't that great, IMO. I really like Shimano external bearing cranksets/BB. Something like this would be a solid set up for less money:

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR303A00-Shimano+Lx+Fc-M582+Crankset.aspx

One advantage of the external BB's is that it doesn't matter if the BB shell is 68mm or 78mm, and of course no worry about spindle length, either.

I've got the SLX cranks ($150 at Jenson), which is a step above the LX's, but they're both solid cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
What do you get for more dinero, basically weight? I've got a lot of miles on my bontrager setup. I am sure it weights more than a boat anchor and it does sound a bit like jar of marbles now but it has done the job.

Thanks for the link, that's even a better price.

EDIT: got the cable out, too easy. Just had to remove a "plug" opposite the inlet side of the cable and push it through.
 

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I had been useing Race Face XC cranks with my old bike and I replaced the BB every year. My newer bike came with Race Face Dues cranks they are junk!. The crank that
I replaced the R/F with are the Noir I got them chepp on flebay I have the Stylo 3.3 on another bike, never a problem and if I had another choice it would be XT & XTR. or the Sram XX stuf..

As for tools I just got the Price Point ST-41 tool kit,but it dosen't come with the the head set tool, I am loving this tool set it cost $169.14 ;)
 
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