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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at getting some new forks for my nomad, and I was hoping I could get a few questions I have answered by you guys.

1. If you have the option of reducing the travel for climbs, do you find you actually need to do this, given the bike climbs well with a set 160mm fork?

2. How does the bike handle with a fork with more than 160mm travel i.e 170 or 180? With the new forks coming out with longer travel and travel adjustment, would the ability to slacken the head angle a bit make the bike too slack for trail riding, or would climbing still be great and the down hill even better? I really like the slacker HA compared to other bikes I've owned, and it's given me a lot more confidence, so I am wondering if making it a little slacker will be even better, or tip the scales to being too slack.
 

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i have a 36 TALAS 150mm (last years) and even with it down at 110mm and a flat stem and 5mm spacer it sits pretty high if you are doing any climbing. In fact I had a bit of a crash on a steep dogleg over the weekend for this reason.

I am 5'10'' on a medium - the head tube is way long on the nomad so it is naturally high. It all just depends on what you are going to ride. I must admit the upshot of the slacker angles on downs and jumps more than makes up for a few sketchy climbs. If I had bought the BLT as I was considering there is no way I could have finished off our local trail and then chilled out and done tabletops for the rest of the day....
 

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noMAD man
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The Nomad has a geometry and overall design that makes it very hard to kill its climbing and sharp cornering capabilities. I have a 170mm 66SL fork on mine, along with a 50mm stem and 1" setback seatpost. I had a 160mm Van 36 on it before, and the bike still handles crisply and climbs without having to crawl all over the bike to keep the front wheel in contact with the ground. Forks shorter than 160mm allow an annoying amount of pedal smack because of the low riding height of the Nomad.
 

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munkyboy, I think you should have your bike fit looked at by your LBS. Your feedback is totally contrary to most Nomad owners out here. If you find your Nomad twitchy on climbs with your fork at 110mm there is certainly something wrong. A lot of Nomad owners, including me, run a 150-160mm fork and climb plenty of steep stuff without problems and without even using the travel adjust.

manamana, I currently run a 150mm AM1 (538mm AtoC) and I think I used my travel adjust only once during the summer. On very steep stuff, I just move my butt closer to the front of my seat and it's usually enough to keep the front down. Like you, for next year I'm thinking about going to a higher fork but I think I'll stick with the 160mm Lyrik or maybe one of the new Manitou if they ever come out. I would love a 170-180 Marzo but for some reason going over 6lbs on the fork is a psychological barrier I can't cross! :D
 

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I rise a comment regarding this issue, but nobody discussed it, but my question is pretty much like your, if I put a AM SL (130mm-110) how will be the behaviour of this bike???I'm intend to buy the Nomad, but I need to check this possibility as a budget one.

Dek
 

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Banzai, I read your post about the Nomad with AM1, and I quite worry about to put the Nomad chassis uo to the AM SL. Don't ask me how much is the travel because it is really hard to know, one the web tells me 150 mm and sometimes they talk about 130mm. In the worst case of 130mm, what can be wrong if a use this fork:madmax: .

See ya

Dek
 

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The lowest fork to put on Nomad will be either Nixon or Pike. With AM SL at 130mm you will be risking the issue of the pedal smack TNC was talking about. The BB height could be too low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hey BanzaiRider, you mention that you want to get a Marzo but you don't want to go over 6lbs, but isn't the 66SL ATA only about 5.7lbs?
 

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I started off with a Marzocchi Z150SL but now am on a Fox 36VanRC2. Only once in a great while on a really steep pitch do I miss a feature to lower the front end. I think a 130 fork would be on the short side too.
 

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manamana said:
I'm looking at getting some new forks for my nomad, and I was hoping I could get a few questions I have answered by you guys.

1. If you have the option of reducing the travel for climbs, do you find you actually need to do this, given the bike climbs well with a set 160mm fork?

2. How does the bike handle with a fork with more than 160mm travel i.e 170 or 180? With the new forks coming out with longer travel and travel adjustment, would the ability to slacken the head angle a bit make the bike too slack for trail riding, or would climbing still be great and the down hill even better? I really like the slacker HA compared to other bikes I've owned, and it's given me a lot more confidence, so I am wondering if making it a little slacker will be even better, or tip the scales to being too slack.
I've played around with a few options and happy to throw my two cents in:

Started out with 06 36 TALAS RC2 which ended up sitting at about 145mm with the travel creep. The Nomad felt good, but the fork really suffered from brake dive, so I switched over to a Boxxer Ride (178mm). My logic was that I wanted a bit more travel for drops etc and the adjustments for climbing.

The Boxxer was great and felt lovely on gnarly trails. Suprisingly it climbed well too, and I stuck with it for a while, but couldn't help noticing that the bike felt slower, even if I lowered down the front to about 160mm (of course, this is the extra 1kg in fork). Incidentally, I never used to drop the front of the TALAS for climbing because 1) it was a pain to turn it 10+ times and 2) I actually felt the bike climbed better with full travel for some reason.

As a trial I switched back to the TALAS a while ago and rode my favourite trail back to back (over two days) with the boxxer set at 155mm and the TALAS at full 1045mm. No suprise to find that the felt bike much quicker and more agile on the TALAS.

This left me with the problem that I hate the TALAS, so I sold them and am expecting a Lyrik U-Turn any day. The reason I chose the U-Turn is I just prefer coil over air and the wight between the U-Turn and 2 Step is negligible. I honestly don't think I'll use the travel adjust apart from maybe the odd really big long climb.

If you want adjusment, something like the 2-Step or ETA by Marz (I think that's the equivalent but not sure) will be the way to go. IMHO 160mm is perfect for the Nomad. I'll let you know how it rides soon hopefully.
 

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HeezaGeeza said:
I've played around with a few options and happy to throw my two cents in:

Started out with 06 36 TALAS RC2 which ended up sitting at about 145mm with the travel creep. The Nomad felt good, but the fork really suffered from brake dive, so I switched over to a Boxxer Ride (178mm). My logic was that I wanted a bit more travel for drops etc and the adjustments for climbing.

The Boxxer was great and felt lovely on gnarly trails. Suprisingly it climbed well too, and I stuck with it for a while, but couldn't help noticing that the bike felt slower, even if I lowered down the front to about 160mm (of course, this is the extra 1kg in fork). Incidentally, I never used to drop the front of the TALAS for climbing because 1) it was a pain to turn it 10+ times and 2) I actually felt the bike climbed better with full travel for some reason.

As a trial I switched back to the TALAS a while ago and rode my favourite trail back to back (over two days) with the boxxer set at 155mm and the TALAS at full 1045mm. No suprise to find that the felt bike much quicker and more agile on the TALAS.

This left me with the problem that I hate the TALAS, so I sold them and am expecting a Lyrik U-Turn any day. The reason I chose the U-Turn is I just prefer coil over air and the wight between the U-Turn and 2 Step is negligible. I honestly don't think I'll use the travel adjust apart from maybe the odd really big long climb.

If you want adjusment, something like the 2-Step or ETA by Marz (I think that's the equivalent but not sure) will be the way to go. IMHO 160mm is perfect for the Nomad. I'll let you know how it rides soon hopefully.
I came off the same set up (Talas) & switched to the Lyric Coil, you are going to be very, very happy with this choice. I too hated the travel adjust & brake dive, & forget it if you wanted to do quick compression adjustments. With the Lyric everything is right at your reach ; ) So far I have 4 rides in on the Lyric & couldn't be happier :D
 

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I rode my Nomad with an AM1 for the first week then got a 66SL. The AM was a noddle compared to the 66SL. The increased steering stiffness translates into increased confidence and speed over challenging terrain. Imho, don't bother with a 32mm qr fork on the Nomad. The frame is stiff and beefy and deserves a stiff fork.

I started with the 66SL at 150 for a week or two, now I keep it at 170mm. It isn't ideal for climbing but if you choose you'll learn to make up for it by keeping your weight lower in front on climbs. The real payoff is on the downhills and thats why you got the bike right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys, so the general consensus seems to be go a 160mm fork at the least (which is what I was thinking), and a little longer won't hurt. So how about the adjustable travel. Do you guys really think this is a necessary feature to have on a fork like the Nomad? Would something like the 36 Talas or Lyric 2-Step not really be needed for their travel adjustability, so purhaps a Lyric solo air or float would be better, and maybe a 66SL ATA?
 

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manamana said:
Thanks guys, so the general consensus seems to be go a 160mm fork at the least (which is what I was thinking), and a little longer won't hurt. So how about the adjustable travel. Do you guys really think this is a necessary feature to have on a fork like the Nomad? Would something like the 36 Talas or Lyric 2-Step not really be needed for their travel adjustability, so purhaps a Lyric solo air or float would be better, and maybe a 66SL ATA?
I wanted adjustable travel but there wasn't a good option 3 months ago. People here told me to suck it up and deal with the height.

When I bought my 66SL I suspected there would be an easy travel adjustable version down the road but I didn't want to wait even though I really wanted the feature. After a month without it I had adapted and was over it.
 

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manamana said:
hey BanzaiRider, you mention that you want to get a Marzo but you don't want to go over 6lbs, but isn't the 66SL ATA only about 5.7lbs?
Ya you are right by unfortunately Banzai has a thing with air forks!! :rolleyes: I only ride coil forks, don't ask me to justify it, I'm sure new air forks are good but I'm an old conservative guy that used to drive those old coil spring big american cars so I am really biased towards coil forks!!! In the rear I can "tolerate" an air shock but not in front.

By the way, my AM1 is the fourth fork I have which has somekind of travel adjustment gyzmo and to be real honest, I never use it. Everytime I check new forks I say, ho ya, travel adjust and then I endup never using it. My opinion is that if you install the right fork for the geometry of the bike, you will never use travel adjust. People who use travel adjust a lot either have a fork that is too high for the bike or they are not well positioned on their bike to ride uphill.
 

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BanzaiRider said:
Ya you are right by unfortunately Banzai has a thing with air forks!! :rolleyes: I only ride coil forks, don't ask me to justify it, I'm sure new air forks are good but I'm an old conservative guy that used to drive those old coil spring big american cars so I am really biased towards coil forks!!! In the rear I can "tolerate" an air shock but not in front.

By the way, my AM1 is the fourth fork I have which has somekind of travel adjustment gyzmo and to be real honest, I never use it. Everytime I check new forks I say, ho ya, travel adjust and then I endup never using it. My opinion is that if you install the right fork for the geometry of the bike, you will never use travel adjust. People who use travel adjust a lot either have a fork that is too high for the bike or they are not well positioned on their bike to ride uphill.

I gotta say that during the period that I had my Marz AM1 130mm-150mm on my Nomad I never once used the travel adjust for any technical climbs. I really preffered for the suspension to work and suck up the chunk on any techy climbs, and with the AM1 reduced down to 130mm it felt too ramped up, almost rigid.
If we're talking about really steep climbs and you have any intensions of making them you're prolly out of the saddle or on the tip of it anyway weighing the front end down.

The biggest problem by far with running the fork in the 130mm setting was as mentioned before by TNC is the whacked out geometry, pedal smack, and even on sustained climbs with mellow terrain it felt like poo to say the least.

I recently switched to a Van 36 rc2 and would not upgrade/replace it with anything that had less than 540mm a-c. Just my thoughts on this issue...

D
 

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Im also looking for an fork up grade. I was really concerened about going to a 20mm when I first ordered my Nomad about a year ago. I didnt think I need it so I went with the Marz AM2 ETA 130-150mm with QR. The one negative effect that Ive noticed is when I release my QR the wheel axle shifts slightly and sets back into the drop outs. I dont know if its the 185mm rotor, the riding or the fork causing the front axle to shift during the ride! Either way not good! Im going with a 20mm thru axle soon. The question I have is, has anyone riden or have an opinion on the new Marz 2007 All Mountain 1 or the All Mountain 1 SL? Both have 160mm of travel and a new 20mm QR axle and weigh in just over 5lbs. I have also read that the strenghth of the all mountain 1 is comparable to that of the 66 series. Let me know if Im being too conservative and should just go with a 66 SL. My riding style consists of aggresive XC and the occasional 5-6ft drops.
 

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The 66SL is pretty hard to beat for the weight to travel benefit. There are lots of good contenders at the 160mm point now. The Nomad actually benefits from a slightly higher front end ride height. Some might suggest that 10mm isn't much to be concerned about, but I had much more pedal smack with my Van 36, and the 66SL didn't hurt the climbing, even though it rides slightly higher. And of course, SC says the Nomad can handle a 180mm fork.
 

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Hey TNC, could it be that you had gained some weight and forgot to adjust the sag? :D I keep reading about your dreaded pedal smack all the time and for some reason I don't have this problem with my AM1 on the Nomad. On the contrary, I find the lower BB of the Nomad to be a blessing compared to my previous bike (the Banzai). The lower BB makes the Nomad feel stable and it's easier to put you feet on the ground when needed. Anyways, I guess it also depends on the type of riding you primarily do. If you do a lot of DH, big jumps and so on, then the 66sl or other 170-180mm fork is probably a blessing but for mostly technical trail riding I find that a 540-550mm AtoC forks is very fine and pedal smacking almost a non issue. :p
 

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Brutus, I just read in another forum a rumor that the QR 20mm Marzo forks might not come to North America because of somekind of patent problems. It seems like Marzo might have to limit it to regular bolted 20mm axles which would be a pity.. I'm personally waiting on the Manitou 2007 info hoping that they will have the Nixon coil in a QR 20mm with 160mm travel and about 550mm AtoC. This would definitely be my upgrade candidate to replace my aging 2005 AM1... ;)
 
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