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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was waiting to get my first flat before I tried this and the Larry was flat this afternoon.

I've been running tubes and picked up a thorn yesterday which is pretty common for around here. So I went to the lbs and picked up a few 20" tubes and some 3/4 wide x 1/2 tall foam with adhesive on one side from the hardware store. I split the tube, stuck down the foam on the rim strip, stretched on the tube and centered it, mounted the tire and aired it up. No problems except a little leakage, so I pulled the valve core and added 3 Stan's cups of sealant and aired it back up. After a bit if spinning and the like it is now holding air. I'll give it a test but I don't think there will be any problems and I'll do the Nate next.

The split tube weighs under 100 grams and I shouldn't have to worry about thorns any more either. Win Win
 

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I did a similar setup at one point (split tube, but no foam), but never rode on it. It was a 27 TPI Larry, and it held air with no sealant at all. Required a compressor and some soapy water to inflate, but once there it did not leak down from 15 PSI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's an Atomz 47mm rear rim. 120tpi tires. No need for soap but I did use a compressor. The rim is a single wall and you know how loose tires are on those rims but with the tube between the bead and the rim when I let the air out to add the sealant it stayed seated.

Split tube is really the way to go for all tubeless conversions. It has a lot of advantages to everything else including Stan's strips and no real drawbacks except that you may have to use a new tube when you change out tires, but if you buy them right they are just over $2 each. I saw the other day that some big company (Hutchinson??) is selling a conversion kit that is basically split tube but they make it so you just peal away the extra left over tube instead of having to use scissors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You forgot to add in the weight of 3 cups of sealant. ;)
Yeah I know. I thought of that but without the sealant I would be getting flats and Stan's won't work with tubes I've been told and Slime tubes are way heavy.

A Stan's cup of sealant is about 70 grams and about 1/3 of a cup.

I've been running sealant and tubeless since it was commercially available so I had basically forgotten about thorn and pinch flats but I've run across a couple of old tubes I had with multiple patches. That used to be part of many rides. Patching. Not missing it.
 

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Not in a fatbike, but I have been running Stans in my 29er winter commuting tubes for two years with no issues or flats, (and it really sucks when you get a flat on a cold freezing slush kind of day!) :madman:


Mikey
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well it looks like I might have to try it. Or something else.

I went down stairs and checked on the Larry and it was still fine and hadn't lost any air, so I thought I would go ahead and convert the Nate. Performed all the same steps but when I went to air it up it wasn't even close. I had the core out and tried synching it down with a string around the tire and pulling the bead to the outside of the rim but that didn't help either. I fought it for about half an hour and gave up and put the tube back in.

I did notice when I was mounting the Larrys that if the logo wasn't lined up with the valve, like I wanted, it was pretty hart to rotate the tire if one side wasn't off. With the Nate it would just spin with no resistance with both beads inside the rim.

I know there is a lot of difference from tire to tire with all Surlys but at this point the Nate was a no go :(

If anyone else has any more luck let me know. At least there is a little more tread for protection but there is a lot of open space too. Arghhh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Has anyone else had luck with sealant inside of the tubes? I've heard that if the hole isn't exposed to air that the sealant won't set up and when the hole has a tire between it and the air it just leaks air and sealant until you patch it. But I haven't tried it personally.
 

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I use one cup of stans juice in 26" 2.5 continental DH scrader valve tubes and never get thorn punctures anymore on the pug, i had loads on surly tubes with no juice,
i replace the tubes yearly as they will perish around the valve core due to salt water,

I thought about a getto tubeless but folk seem to have a lot of grief inflating etc,
They also usually carry a spare tube, which is what we do anyway :)

This is not a negative comment on going tubeless, just a positive view of many miles running tubes without flats..

Oh i have also tried that green slime made for Agri vehicles in tubes and it was crap...
But Stans juice is ace at sealing thorns :thumbsup:

So i guess my view is Stans juice is ace, tubed or tubeless :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
was that a brand new Nate?

if it was, you might try putting a tube in and inflating the Nate/tube and letting it seat and stretch overnight

maybe something in this link might help?

Tubeless Larry! | Riding the Great Divide on a Fat Bike
No it was a tire that had been on the bike for a couple of weeks and well seated and round.

I didn't try soapy water but I haven't had to do that on any tires for years and I think it only helps if the bead is having trouble slipping up onto the raised area of the rim.

I think this tire is just too loose. With the tube in it when I let the air out it slipped off the rim to the middle where the Larrys would stay seated until I pushed the bead loose.

There might be other Nates that would work. This was a 120tpi. Might get a kevlar when they come out and try again.

I'll try some Stan's in the tube for now.
 

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Has anyone else had luck with sealant inside of the tubes? I've heard that if the hole isn't exposed to air that the sealant won't set up and when the hole has a tire between it and the air it just leaks air and sealant until you patch it. But I haven't tried it personally.
Using homebrew sealant in tubes. It's basically latex and slime mixed with some other things, and it works very well. It's more about the chunks/etc being pushed into the hole than air drying the latex.
 
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