[BenPea]

Hola,

Will changing the oil in a Nixon Elite make the rebound quicker? The dial currently gives settings ranging from the reasonably quick to reasonably slow. Disappointing after a Vanilla and not as plush overall.... Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Ben

 

[be350ka]

Hola,

Will changing the oil in a Nixon Elite make the rebound quicker? The dial currently gives settings ranging from the reasonably quick to reasonably slow. Disappointing after a Vanilla and not as plush overall.... Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Ben

Im not sure that an oil change would make a world of difference, but an oil change and a lighter wt oil may help.?.?

 

[derby]

Yes, I changed my '05 Elite damper oil from the stock 10 wt to ATF oil which is about 7.5 wt according to Manitou certified Garageworks in Irvine, CA.

The 7.5 wt oil gave the Elite more usable rebound range, from needing max fastest adjustment with stock 10 wt to having to slow the rebound adjustment slightly off the fastest end of range using the 7.5 wt.

Also with the lighter 7.5 wt oil, compression adjustment needed more turns towards slower adjustment than before to maintain the same brake dive speed as before with the heavier stock 10 wt.

 

[AndrewTO]

Hola,

Will changing the oil in a Nixon Elite make the rebound quicker? The dial currently gives settings ranging from the reasonably quick to reasonably slow. Disappointing after a Vanilla and not as plush overall.... Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Ben

Lots of ideas. What do you weigh? How old is the fork? Do you really need such a wide range for rebound damping? Manitou's typically have a reputation for having slow rebound, even at the fastest/least damped setting. If you're mechanically inclined enough then a simple re-vavling can do wonders to resolve this, also.

Ray - Manitou forks use 5wt oil from the factory, not 10wt. :nono:

 

[Dougal]

I prefer to remove a shim from the rebound assembly.

It's a lot easier, cheaper and gives better results than changing the oil viscosity.

 

[BenPea]

Thanks for your answers. I was indeed talking about changing the weight of the oil.

Derby's results sound exactly like what I'm looking for (however, is the oil in the fork already as light as it gets?), but will removing a "rebound shim" do the same thing? (And where is it, does anyone have a link to the manual? I've never managed to find it)

A "simple" revalving... I like that it's beyond me... although I may have a look...

Yes, I do need faster rebound. My trails include rocks and speed so I need a quick fork and I don't want to buy a Fox 36 yet... this is the only real problem I have with the Nixon...

 

[fsrxc]

Thanks for your answers. I was indeed talking about changing the weight of the oil.

Derby's results sound exactly like what I'm looking for (however, is the oil in the fork already as light as it gets?), but will removing a "rebound shim" do the same thing? (And where is it, does anyone have a link to the manual? I've never managed to find it)

A "simple" revalving... I like that it's beyond me... although I may have a look...

Yes, I do need faster rebound. My trails include rocks and speed so I need a quick fork and I don't want to buy a Fox 36 yet... this is the only real problem I have with the Nixon...

Is it actually rebounding slow, on the trail? By that i mean, my MInute 3:00 seems to rebound slowly when I just pump it down-up by hand, but on the trail it seems to track just fine. Do you think your Nixon is packing down?

I did what Dougal suggested above, removing a rebound shim. It's not rocket science but you need to be mechanically inclined, and careful putting things back together.

 

[BenPea]

It's not packing down no...

Actually, the more I think of it the more I think the compression is too slow too... Presumably an oil weight change would fix this too?

Where's the rebound shim ? (any links?)

thanks

 

[AndrewTO]

It's not packing down no...

Actually, the more I think of it the more I think the compression is too slow too... Presumably an oil weight change would fix this too?

Where's the rebound shim ? (any links?)

thanks

You missed one - how old is the fork????? Perhaps the fork is new and still needs some break-in time? Your comments are common things to expect of a new fork user.

Anyways, some tidbits for you to chew on;

With your fork an important thing to realize is that the compression and rebound damping responsibilities are all in one chamber. The oil used for damping your fork partially dictates how each work. If you change only the oil viscosity to alter one damping characteristic then it WILL affect the other in the same manner. If you have a complaint about only one of the damping characteristics then you're better off re-valving (again, if you're reasonably mechanically incined).

Oil viscosity info; your fork has 5wt damping oil in it from the factory. You can put in a lower viscosity oil (lower wt value/lighter oil/thinner oil - all the ame thing) or a higher viscosity depending on what you want/need to do (along with what I mentioned above). Typically one would have best results going to a local motorcycle shop and purchasing a quality synthetic fork oil there (less expensive than the LBS and possibly better quality, too). By replacing with a lower viscosity oil you will decrease the damping ability of the fork ..... speed it up.

Here's a link for you to read. It's LONG, so have a coffee ready before you hit it. It is the biggest, deepest thread you'll find anywhere when it comes to this stuff and your fork. (that's a warning, of sorts, eh?!?!) The rest of your questions are answered somewhere in there ..... including the one's you'll have as you read ..... and even the one's you don't know to ask yet.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=98454&highlight=nixon

 

[BenPea]

That's great, thanks a lot!

I've had the fork since last summer (new on Giant Reign 2), and it's seen enough action to be reasonably well worn in I think it's a 2005...

Any links to Nixon tech docs?

edit: ok I've had a look at the huge thread you linked to. No further questions )

 

[AndrewTO]

That's great, thanks a lot!

I've had the fork since last summer (new on Giant Reign 2), and it's seen enough action to be reasonably well worn in I think it's a 2005...

Any links to Nixon tech docs?

edit: ok I've had a look at the huge thread you linked to. No further questions )

Hmmm, i'm having a hard time deciphering the "tone" of your edit. It's not that difficult if you pay attention to what you're doing and use some common sense (and read the crap out of that thread).

At any rate, I would like to make one suggestion, although it's based on the assumption that your fork has never been rebuilt (!). Don't re-valve it - just give it a "re and re", a lube job. Seperate the lowers from the uppers, clean, re-fill with fresh oil (a synthetic 10Wxx engine oil will do - one quart will leave you plenty left over). Also, change the damper fluid. Stick with a 5wt. I can honestly say I would NOT be surprised that you've got little-to-no semi-bath lubricating the stanchions and this can make a big, BIG difference in fork operation. While you're at it change the seals - Enduro seals are inexpensive and come with great reviews here on MTBR.

 

[Dougal]

Seperate the lowers from the uppers, clean, re-fill with fresh oil (a synthetic 10Wxx engine oil will do - one quart will leave you plenty left over). Also, change the damper fluid.

You might need to re-write that for clarity.
The cavity inside the lowers only uses 16cc of oil per side, for this good clean motor oil will work fine.
You'll only need a quart if you plan on flushing them a few times before reassembly.

 

[AndrewTO]

You might need to re-write that for clarity.
The cavity inside the lowers only uses 16cc of oil per side, for this good clean motor oil will work fine.
You'll only need a quart if you plan on flushing them a few times before reassembly.

I've never seen engine oil sold in anything less than a quart and figured he may not know he'd only need one. That, and I don't think too many people out there have a "stock" of engine oil on their premesis.

Ummmm, not seeing the lack of clarity, but it could just as well be me. (shrug)

At any rate, thank you for making sure, Dougal. :thumbsup: Always best to have the pro's speak up. (insert worship Smiley here)

 

[Dougal]

I've never seen engine oil sold in anything less than a quart and figured he may not know he'd only need one. That, and I don't think too many people out there have a "stock" of engine oil on their premesis.

Ummmm, not seeing the lack of clarity, but it could just as well be me. (shrug)

At any rate, thank you for making sure, Dougal. :thumbsup: Always best to have the pro's speak up. (insert worship Smiley here)

I read your post as needing to fill the lowers with approximately 1 quart of oil. I knew what you meant but figured a beginner reading the same thing probably wouldn't.

(Yes I have considerable "stock" of engine oil in my garage).:thumbsup:

 

[BenPea]

Hmmm, i'm having a hard time deciphering the "tone" of your edit. It's not that difficult if you pay attention to what you're doing and use some common sense (and read the crap out of that thread).

No, I meant it! I read about a third of that thread and it pretty much says it all. The extra instructions you've all given will definitely help... A friend told me to soak the seals in gearbox oil too...

I'd probably have a hard time getting a quart in there (what's that, a quarter of a gallon?)...

One more question, lube oil in the left, damper oil in the right?

 

[fsrxc]

No, I meant it! I read about a third of that thread and it pretty much says it all. The extra instructions you've all given will definitely help... A friend told me to soak the seals in gearbox oil too...

I'd probably have a hard time getting a quart in there (what's that, a quarter of a gallon?)...

One more question, lube oil in the left, damper oil in the right?

Lube in both lowers. Damper is sealed off from it's lower leg.