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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all,

I'm looking to build up another hardtail 29er (been rocking a Karate Monkey since '03) and can't decide between a Canfield Brothers Nimble 9 or a Yelli Screamy.

I realize that they are pretty different as one is steel, the other is aluminum. One can roll SS, the other is all geared, etc. Here are the main plusses and minuses as far as I can tell.

Nimble 9:
+Can run SS
+Steel frame = more compliant
+Curved seat stays = more compliant
-1-1/8" head tube
+Accepts a standard 1-1/8" headset

Yelli Screamy:
-No single speed (unless i use an eccentric hub)
+Aluminum frame = stiffer
+Tapered headtube = stiffer

Anything that i've missed.

To give you some background I'm 6'2" 225 with a 32" and live in Illinois where I ride XC and aggressive XC as well as some urban. I will however be moving to Hawaii in the near future where I will see some gnarly down hill action.

Also, and suggestions on sizing? I'm kind of between the L and XL. For reference my Karate Monkey is a 20" frame.

Happy trails,
Winky

Edit: I forgot to mention that the 30.9 seat tube diameter gives me more options for dropper seat posts.

And has anyone tried putting Paragon Machine Works slider inserts in the Nimble 9? Are they compatible? I asked Chris and he didn't know for sure.
 

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West Chester, PA
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Having been on a KM that long I'm surprised you aren't already set on the Nimble since its steel and single speed ready. Sounds like you want somebody to say "stick with what you like". So there... done :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply 92.

That is a great question. I guess I'm torn because the trails in Hawaii (where I will be within a year or so) are so technical and down hill that the stiffer frame of the Yelli, combined with the anodized paint and no need to worry about rust appeal to me. That and I will not be selling my Karate Monkey (I've got too many good memories on that bike) and would like to have something different.

I am also not sure that I will be running it SS out there, everything is so gnarly to climb that gears would be nice.

Thanks,
Winky
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
92

I saw that your bike (which is pretty sweet and similar to what I'm gonna build) has a Cane Creek 40 h/s. I was wondering what assembly you are using? I was looking into the headset for the yelli and I just wanted to be sure I order the right headset.

For the top cup: 40.ZS.44

Bottom cup: 40.EC.49 or 40.ZS.49 Do I need the external cup or the zero stack version?

Thanks,
Winky
 

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West Chester, PA
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Bottom cup: 40.EC.49 or 40.ZS.49 Do I need the external cup or the zero stack version?

Thanks,
Winky
You're right on the top. The bottom will depend on whether or not you get a tapered fork.

Tapered - you have to have the external cup. (ec49 #BAA0091K)
Non-tapered - you can use the external (ec49 conversion #BAA0207K) or internal (zs49 #BAA0088K)

I chose the external cause the frame was designed with that stack height and if I change to a fork with a tapered steerer all I have to do is get a different crown race. Only drawback is that the conversion crown race is made of solid steel and weighs about a pound by itself. I exaggerate but its damn heavy for a crown race.
 

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FWIW, I'm 6'4, 235 lbs, 32/33 inseam and went with an XL black ano Yelli after a few weeks of being indecisive, lol, just ask Chris or Sean at Canfield. The 18" ST on the L Yelli seems short, especially coming from a 19.5" ST on my TransAM, which is on the small side of things. Reach and ETT is only less than an inch longer, so with a 50mm stem, it should be perfect.

Plus carrying around the 2+ lbs of extra weight compared to the new 29er TransAM steel frame, the Yelli was a clear winner. My current 26er TransAM weighs in at 33 lbs which is a lot for singletrack use. My plan with the Yelli is somewhere around 27 or 28 lbs. And like you said, dealing with rust on these frames can be a nuisance, even though my TransAM was ED coated inside. Plus I'll take an anodized finish over paint any day of the week. Lighter and much more durable.

And I live in Illinois as well, and mostly ride at Palos and the only part of the build I'm stuck at is what fork to buy for this bike. I'm thinking 140/110 adjustable like the new Fox 34 Talas or RS Revelation, just can't commit to one. :D
 

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Hi Winky....I'll start this off by saying I think you would love them both. They are both similar but have different attributes like you've listed.

Something to consider is there is no XL in the Nimble 9. The seat tube on the XL Yelli Screamy sits at 20''. I'm sure you've gathered a bit of info from here. One thing I have noticed is everyone's sizing is a personal preference. I know we have 6' guys on medium Yelli's as well as L and XL.

Component wise, you have alot of choices for either. Some prefer the 1 1/8. Others rave about tapered fork stiffness. There are a lot variables that translate to what we feel on the trail. Either one can be setup geared and SS. There are a lot of people going SS with Yelli's and a tensioner. I imagine in HI, I would want a 1x setup. Its a personal preference though.

A recent trend, especially in 29er world is the shorter stem/wider bar combo. It really helps to compare to what you are currently riding and see if the changes in sizing would be better for you or not. The Nimble9 does flex more then the Yelli. This is a design of the frame as well as materials. 4130 is a smooth ride. At your size I think L or XL would fit, But I think you would prefer overall the YS in XL. With a 50mm stem to start. A bigger individual will benefit from the stiffer handling bike. The Yelli is slightly lighter. They both have been real popular. Tough Choice.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the input guys!

I'm gonna go with the Yelli because I plan to keep my Karate Monkey until it breaks:D

My biggest decision right now is size. My karate Monkey is a 20" frame with a 24.3" ETT and I run a 110 x 10 degree stem with azonic double wall bars (29" wide).

The ETT on the L is really close at 24.5" and the XL is longer at 25.3"

I am kind of leaning toward the large because it is similar to what I'm used to as far as ETT. I think that if I really want to run a short stem like a 50 I can always get a set back post. Right??

Edit: I just talked to Chris (pretty cool guy) and he recommended a Large.

Thanks for all of the input! I'll be sure to post up build pics!
Winky
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ordered the Yelli

Hey all,

Incase I wasn't clear earlier, I have decided on the Yelli. I placed the order for my Large Black Yelli just a few minutes ago. I'm super stoked about it.

Quick question, does the frame come with HT Faced and BB chased and faced?? Or will I need to get it done?

Thanks again,
Winky

P.S. Can you tell I'm stoked about this bike??
 

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Sounds like the Yelli is a good compliment to the Monkey for right now, but are you sure a HT will do the duty in Hawaii? I mean if you're keeping the Monkey there's your rigid/HT and then a nice slack FS would compliment it much better IMO than another HT if the trails really are so knarly. FYI, this coming from a guy who's been rocking a Paradox for a year and loving it, but yearning for some squish on the rougher, more tech trails as the bones just ain't that young anymore, but a nice slacked out, stiff alu bike really is nice in tech ;)
 

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Hey all,

Incase I wasn't clear earlier, I have decided on the Yelli. I placed the order for my Large Black Yelli just a few minutes ago. I'm super stoked about it.

Quick question, does the frame come with HT Faced and BB chased and faced?? Or will I need to get it done?

Thanks again,
Winky

P.S. Can you tell I'm stoked about this bike??
That was quick. :thumbsup:
 

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West Chester, PA
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You'll need to get your mrp guide much closer to the chain. The way its sitting now, if the chain unwraps itself from the bottom of the ring, the guide isn't close enough at the top to keep it on. The bracket has some flex, so the chain actually can come completely off and wedge itself between the ring and the tail end of the guide.

Green is sick. Little bit of regret here... :thumbsup:
 

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You'll need to get your mrp guide much closer to the chain. The way its sitting now, if the chain unwraps itself from the bottom of the ring, the guide isn't close enough at the top to keep it on. The bracket has some flex, so the chain actually can come completely off and wedge itself between the ring and the tail end of the guide.

Green is sick. Little bit of regret here... :thumbsup:
No orange XL builds either, yet... just black, purple and green.
 

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WInky,

Good choice on the YS. Good choice on the KM, too. You don't need an eccentric hub to go SS on your Yelli. 30:18 works beautifully with a push-up tensioner and no half link. If you go this route, make sure you use a derailleur hanger mounted tensioner (or BB mounted), not an axle mounted one. The Yelli has weird dished drop-outs that make it a challenge to use an axle-mounted unit. My Yelli has been run SS exclusively since it hit thrails this Spring, and I have zero complaints.
 
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