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sbsbiker said:
Does anyone know the output of the older lights? I'm in the market for new and wonder how my old light compairs in the stats.?
No one can really answer that with out knowing more about your old set-up. How many bulbs? What watt bulbs? What volt battery and how large? The old set-up I used was rigged to worked with Li-ion cells and was over-volted for max output. A standard setup though would not be as nice.

LED technology is just so much better. Brighter lights plus dimming options are better and the builds are generally smaller and lighter with better run times. Most of these run with the more reliable Li-ion batteries. Most of the older halogens used NiMh which were more heavier and usually with shorter run times. Prices have dropped to the point where it just doesn't make any sense NOT to buy better lights. Check out the MagicShine (~$89 complete ) or some of the newer P-7 or MC-E LED torches ( ~ $35 plus batteries and charger = ~$50 ) There are also some great options with some of the DIY'ers on the forums that offer nice lights for a good price. Any of the newer stuff is going to blow your old halogens out of the water.
 

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I have a Niterider Digital Evolution. Its high setting is 15 watts. Subjectively, the 15watt setting compares approximately to the output on my DiNotte 200L. So, I'd guess the 15 watt output is somewhere in the ballpark of 200 lumens.

That being said, I don't trust my Niterider. Early on I had to send it in for repairs. They're notorious for having problems. And now, I can't get the helmet extension chord to reliably connect between the battery and the light head. I've never had a single issue with my DiNotte 200L, 140L tail light, or Fenix flashlight. I just got a Magicshine, and though the jury is still out for me personally, thousands of people on these boards have used them and have had very few problems. Most of the problems associated with the Magicshine are the battery going dead after getting wet. I bought from Geoman which should mean that I'll be taken care of if any problems develop. Not so with Niterider, they charge a bench fee just to look at it...
 

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300 lumens,

my guess,... MR11 bulbs, ~20 lumen per watt, reflector, and size does not make it very efficient, it would seam litle less bright than , LED , due 3000K , but that yellow light, would give you better depth perception,... of course 300 lumen is not enough.
I'am digging out my old mr16 halogen,... 20W over volted 27W, newer bulb,
will give me butter smooth 1000+ lumen, add an LED to make it whiter, voila,
usable, on expense of battery runtime. since I'am developing batteries, I do have mega, monster batteries, so I could still get 3.5hrs+ , it's a classic.
my monster halogen, is a 35W turbo boosted to 52W, pushing 1800 lumen+, + an LED,
but that be for shorter rides, 2hrs- ~1.5hrs. at least there is an option, without paying an arm an leg for LED light, thought, the batteries aren't cheap, and it's for the all-mountain / downhill guys, where an extra kg is not that important.

my buddy, replaced the 10W with an 20W on his niterider,... so far he has not melted the light, and kept it for long time, replaced his battery once, still rides HID on handlebar and dual on helmet, with the big heavy nimh bottle in his camelbak,....
 

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Wattage is irrelevant without knowing the voltage. Is it a 12 volt, 15 watt setup? There is a comparison chart somewhere about overvolting halogens. I had a 14.8 volt 20 watt halogen setup until recently, and according to the chart it was putting out 600-750 lumens. It was brighter than my Magicshine I'm using now is.
 
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