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Discussion Starter #1
I have ridden on and off most of my life. When I was 13, I got into riding dirt bikes in the Calif desert, so that put bike riding into the background.

In the 90's I bought a Trek 5200, a less than 20 lb carbon road bike.

Fast forward to today, I wanted to get an inexpensive mountain bike, but found out there is no such thing. Being on a budget, able to work on anything and being a cheapskate, I bought a Cannondale Judge 1 semi-basket case to restore. The front end is complete and in good shape, the main problem with the rear is a broken hanger. A local bike shop is seeing if they can get it.
I'm here to learn, in general and about my downhill bike. I would like to change it a bit, and change the sprocket to a smaller number of teeth to make it more rideable, perhaps even adding a front derailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My reply

Thanks Eb for the reply. After buying the bike, (and then finding out there was such a thing as a "downhill" bike, I've still decided to be stubborn (for now) and keep it. It's a bit on the heavy side, sure, and it's suspension reminds me of my old dirt bikes, (a plus as far as I'm concerned).

Although I *might* try some very beginner downhill runs, like you mentioned that will not be my primary riding activity. Once I get the bike up and running, I might change my mind as for keeping it. I'd still like to explore changing the gearing after I get it up and running. I realize that I will have to get a new chain also.

Question: I see no bump-stop for the upper limit of the rear suspension, either on the frame or the shock. Am I missing something?

Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
 

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I put a problem solver front derailleur cable stop on a DH bike that wasn't designed for 2x. I pedaled that thing just for fun on shuttle DH stuff. Not sure if you have a cable guide for a front D. If not you might be able to run a problem solver cable stop. Or shop for a used 1x10 drivetrain. If you can score a wide range 1x10 cassette you'll have pretty good low range. One thing you're going to learn is just how screwy MTB standards are. Make sure you buy stuff that's compatible. There's no reason you can't ride that bike up monster climbs. My first long travel "AM" bike weighed 42lbs. I pedaled that thing in the mountains xc style 6 days a week.

As for a bump stop. If you have a coil shock there should be a little foam bottom out bumper on the shock shaft. There won't be anything on the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm learning the terminology...

Thanks for the answer slim, I somehow missed seeing the bump-stop, but yes, I have one.

To be honest, many of the terms used are a mystery to me at my level of experience.
Some examples;


problem solver front derailleur cable stop on a DH bike that wasn't designed for 2x.

I think I've figured out the rest. I'll ask my friends at my local bike shop for guidance, or, maybe there is a resource that can point me in the right direction. I am probably looking to replace the front sprocket with a smaller toothed one, new chain, and perhaps a different cassette. I'd like to stick with used if possible.

Gene

slimat99 I put a problem solver front derailleur cable stop on a DH bike that wasn't designed for 2x. I pedaled that thing just for fun on shuttle DH stuff. Not sure if you have a cable guide for a front D. If not you might be able to run a problem solver cable stop. Or shop for a used 1x10 drivetrain. If you can score a wide range 1x10 cassette you'll have pretty good low range. One thing you're going to learn is just how screwy MTB standards are. Make sure you buy stuff that's compatible. There's no reason you can't ride that bike up monster climbs. My first long travel "AM" bike weighed 42lbs. I pedaled that thing in the mountains xc style 6 days a week.
 
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