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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
yes you read my thread title right! i have zero idea with MTB's, though ive been reading with some threads here and other local forums ( im from the Philippines ) and had a lot of questions and having hard time to decide what should i buy...

i just stand around 5'8" and weighing around 200 to 210 lbs ( yes im FAT hehehe ) thats why i decided to go MTBiking for my fitness and health.. i dont want to grow bigger anymore!!!!


my budget as a starter is from 1500usd to 1800usd, i prefer to have a FS bike ( full suspension?? i hope im right! ), seriously i dont intend to go off road or similar to that kind of trails... i just want it because it kind a scary and mean to look at! ( looks cool!! )


one more newbie question, before i go FINAL with FS, can i use FS bikes on asphalt or cemented roads?? because i just want to ride it every morning before i go to work for my daily exercise.. and maybe go off road once a month or two...


please advice me on what brands, parts should i choose... brands that i prefer are GIANTS, SPECIALIZED also please suggest brands that are good in terms of quality, durability and looks that suites my budget as long as it is FS... and what are other things that i should consider as a starter???


should i buy FACTORY ASSEMBLED MTB's or should i go parts by parts and assemble?? which is better? what do you mean by ENTRY-LEVEL?

MSRP- manufacturer's suggested retail price???
LBS- local bike store???
WTB-?????



sorry if i asked alot of NOOBIE questions, any inputs is highly appreciated...

thanks!!!
br
 

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dude, go to your local bike shop and start asking these questions. just get their advice on a bike. tell them that you are willing to spend some money for the right bike. they'll probably direct you to a hard tail.
 

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The pitch looks like overkill to me, my advice to the OP is to find a friendly local bike shop (LBS) and start asking some of these questions there. Assembling a bike from scratch is great fun but is typically more expensive when you don't have a parts bin and/or lots of experience, and the bike companies will know what parts work with their frame more than you do. Stick to fully assembled bikes, and stop by your LBS.

HT- hardtail (front suspension only)
FS- full suspension
WTB- Wilderness Trail Bikes
MSRP- manufacturer's suggested retail price
 

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At your price range you have a lot of options for great bikes, and the other posters in this thread are correct - you should go to your local bike shop (several actually) and strike up a conversation.

If you plan on riding this bike for exercise purposes mostly on paved roads with only a little dirt mixed in I would not recommend a full suspension bike for several reasons.

First, you do not need full suspension by any stretch of the imagination. In fact, for riding on smoother roads it will slow you down by sapping energy.

Second, on that same note a FS bike will be heavier (and therefor harder to ride) then a comparably equipped hard-tail.

Third, a FS bike will be much more expensive than a hard tail, so you would be getting less parts for the money.

Fourth, on this note, a 1500-1800 hard tail with have an excellent parts spec on it which will save you even more weight while performing much better.

Fifth, hard-tails can still look real mean ;)

Below are a few great bikes in your price range. You simply will not touch the weight or performance of any of them with a FS rig at the same price.

Specialized Stumpjumper (1500) or Stumpjumper Comp (1750). Both entry level RACE bikes that will tip the scales close to 23 lbs and pedal like a dream. Not to mention they come with fox shox. They come with the same parts that SPZ specs on their 2700 FS bikes.....the value is outstanding.

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45863&eid=4342&menuItemId=9247
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45867&eid=4342&menuItemId=9247

Trek 6700 Disc. Not as race oriented as the SPZ but considerably less expensive with a parts kit that will carry you deep as you progress as a rider. Hard to argue with the 1300 price tag considering the solid spec.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain_hardtail/6_series/6700disc/

Jamis Dragon Comp (1500ish). A classic Reynolds tubed steel hardtail. A little heavier than the aluminum bikes but with wonderful damping characteristics. As they say, steel is real.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/hardtails/dragon/09_dragoncomp.html

On-one Inbred and Scandal. The inbred is one of the most popular bikes on MTBR - people simply love them (myself included, I love it). I repeat, steel is real :). You can spec it any number of ways and keep the price in your range, with everything from race ready components for ultralight performance to heavier duty all mountain stuff. With both of these bike you would order them then take it to a shop for professional assembly, so figure an extra $100 labor, plus a case of good beer for the mechanic. Trust me, you will make a valuable friend (add pizza to the beer and you may never pay for a simple repair again!)

http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Inbred_DN6_Steel_Mountain_bikes.html

The scandal is the slightly more expensive aluminum hardtail.
http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Scandal_Light_Race_Mountain_bike.html

This list is just the beginning from some of the big-boys and one of the best little guys. There are dozens more bikes you could look at. I cannot stress enough, however, how much more bike you can get for your dollar in this price range if you stick with a hardtail. Considering your fitness goals, it would be silly to spend more money on a heavier bike with worse components (FS), all that will do is hinder your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thank you so much for your inputs and suggestions guys!! however, here in our place, there's only few LBS that carries a high end parts or bikes, usually they only have a cheap bikes that i dont like and doesnt suite my needs..



now its either DH or FS, still need more advices guys...

so meaning if its FS, its heavier... if DH, what size should go right to me? im overweight guys.. i should really consider a DURABLE frame... and i think i should go with FOX FORKS.. i've seen one here in our LBS, but its an old model i think..


btw speaking of model, does it matter if its O8, 09, 2010 model??? whats the difference?


and if we speak of brands, like for example with shoes, i prefer nike or adidas.. so whats the counterpart of it with the bikes/frames??? is the giant the nike of bikes?? or is it the SPZ?? or is there something else?



and one more thing, its not yet clear to me what does ENTRY-LEVEL means.... sorry for my ignorance guys and i hope you all will pardon me with my english.. im quite poor with it especially with my grammar...


br
 

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DO NOT get a DH bike. DH stands for downhill, they're bikes designed specifically for closed circuit racing on an entirely downhill course. They're great for racing, but terrible for riding on paved roads and mild singletrack. By the way, a DH bike is almost always a full suspension (FS) bike.

FS bikes will likely be overkill for what you've described. My recommendation would be a hardtail (HT). For your money, you could get a well equipped hardtail that will be quick, light, and fun to ride, with considerably less and easier maintenance than a FS bike.

Sizing is very important. However, the only thing that I can really recommend is to ride as many bikes as possible and see which one is the most comfortable.

There are plenty of beefy hardtails out there that will be durable and solid. Models like the Kona Hoss come to mind for beefy hardtails (there's much more than just this one, check out the clydesdales forum for advice).

Name brand suspension is a great thing, and Fox is not the only brand. Others include Marzocchi, Rockshock, Manitou, White Brothers, and Magura (might be forgetting a few.)

A few of the big names for bikes here are Trek (including Gary Fisher), Giant, and Specialized. Big name doesn't necessarily mean better bike, but it's easily recognizable as a quality product. Don't be afraid to consider slightly smaller brands like Jamis, Kona, Mountain Cycle, Marin, Santa Cruz, and others. You can use the manufacturer forums to get a better idea as to who are the real players here.

Entry level parts/bikes tend to be cheaper, heavier, and less durable. They work fine for most riders, high end stuff is always nice but typically unnecessary. Mid level parts are ideal for the vast majority of riders. There's an old saying: "Cheap, light, and strong. Pick two."

Don't bother concerning yourself much with model years. As long as they're within the same two or three years, the differences are neglible- barring a total design overhaul. Last year's bikes are often sold at a reduced price, it's a great opportunity for a solid bike.

In the end, there's no real replacement for an LBS. Person to person discussion will help you more than an internet forum ever can. With that said, don't be afraid to use this forum's search feature to research any bike related topic. Sheldon Brown might be able to help too, it's full of great technical information.

One final consideration- you might want to set a side 100 or 200 in your budget for riding gear like tools, clothing, other miscellaneous equipment.

Good luck and happy trail!
 

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GrampBredo said:
One final consideration- you might want to set a side 100 or 200 in your budget for riding gear like tools, clothing, other miscellaneous equipment.

Good luck and happy trail!
Dont forget a good quality helmet . ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ohh sorry what i meant was HT not DH.. i wrote it wrong...


ok then, im set for a HT bikes... now its time for me to choose brands...

our local LBS here sells only low end bikes, not even complete with parts that suites my needs...


i just hope that some filipino will also read my post and recommend me a BIKE SHOP in our country that can help me with my needs...


guys, i need your advice, should i get the factory assembled HT bikes??


if ever i buy factory assembled can i still upgrade the parts that i dont like?? usually how long is the warranty of the bike if its brand new??? will the warranty be void if i replace some parts of it??
 

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No problem, a simple misunderstanding.

Try the bike shop reviews for your area? Really grabbing at straws here but that's all I can do to help.

The components of a complete bike will be fully interchangeable, so you can swap out anything you don't like. The warranty varies from manufacturer, anywhere from lifetime to a year.
 

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No offense, but unless you’ve been doing some weight lifting over the years, 210lbs for someone your height is approaching obesity. The only reason I mention that is because it’s possible that your joints, hips, and back are at risk of being strained/worn as you tangle with trail riding. I would say be careful and take it real easy until you drop about 30 lbs.

I first got into mountain biking as part of a weight loss strategy as well. I’m sure you already know this, but I just wanted to mention that diet is equally if not more important than exercise. If you don’t have your meals planned out accordingly, any weight loss will be temporary and your body will be thrashed from hauling all that extra weight up hillsides and across the plains.

Good luck and check back in with us for some moral support from time to time. And congratulations on making that first step toward a healthier lifestyle.
 

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ryumahon said:
ohh sorry what i meant was HT not DH.. i wrote it wrong...

ok then, im set for a HT bikes... now its time for me to choose brands...

our local LBS here sells only low end bikes, not even complete with parts that suites my needs...

i just hope that some filipino will also read my post and recommend me a BIKE SHOP in our country that can help me with my needs...

guys, i need your advice, should i get the factory assembled HT bikes??

if ever i buy factory assembled can i still upgrade the parts that i dont like?? usually how long is the warranty of the bike if its brand new??? will the warranty be void if i replace some parts of it??
i'm not sure where to buy a bike in the Philippines, but if u can't find one in your area, you can try to buy from an online website, such as BikesDirect.com. they have lots of selection at good prices. you will need to assemble about 10-15% of the bike yourself.
if you're 5'8 i'd say you're a size Medium (16"-18".)
most online bikes come pre-assembled and you only need basic wrenches and allen keys to assemble them. worse comes to worse you can bring the box to a *good* bike shop and pay them $50-100 USD to assemble it

Warranty: the big name brands like cannondale, specialized, and trek will have lifetime warranties on the frame. you're allowed to change components, as long as you keep the fork travel length the same as the stock (i.e. 100mm.) Also check out the many other bike shops and email to ask if they will ship a bike to you, it should still get you a decent deal since buying online is cheaper than buying at a bike shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks alot!! yes sir infact im not just appoaching obesity but im already OBESE!! hehehee!!

im also controlling my diet, stopped from drinking alcohols... im concern with my health.. im not getting any younger im already 30 going to 31...


thank you all for your advices!!! i just hope that shops online offers free shipment here in our country!! hehehehe!!


br
 

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200 lbs is not something to worry about when it comes to frame strength, I weighed about 240 when I began mtbing as a teen, and I never broke a frame. I have always been into jumping my bike and I will tell you I haven't always had the most gentle landings. With the riding you describe wanting to do, a heavier duty frame isn't something you need to worry about, everything in an actual bike shop will hold up for you. The wheelset will be the weak point for you, but still, at 200 lbs, it's not a huge concern. Have a look around inthe Clydesdale forums... Some big boys over there!
As for bikes, if you are set on full suspension, try to find something with a lockout, or a suspension design that helps isolate the suspension from drivetrain movement. Look at gt idrive, mongoose freedrive, and if you can afford it, anything with a DW link rear suspension. I have also heard really good things about giant's maestro suspension design.
 

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I had a friend recommend the Santa Cruz Super Light to me. You can find them around the $1,500 to $1,700 range depending on components. To this beginner, it looks to be a good deal for a full suspension ride. I'm currently riding one as a loaner and really appreciate it's lack of weight when pushing it up climbs that I can't peddle up (yet).
 
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