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It's carbon dontcha know.
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4,292 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 7 1/2 year old Burner frame Fox Float CTD rear shock seems to be feeling tired.

I've done air sleeve services regularly, but I think it's long overdue for a bigger service - if that's worthwhile.

Debating the cost of replacement versus service by 3rd party.

What's a good potential replacement? Isn't the stock float shock a M rebound L compression, can that easily be replicated from a store bought shock?
 

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344 Posts
I am at the same point. If my Burner was my primary bike, I would get a Fox X2. Its not officially available in that size, but if you talk to Fox service they will tell you how its done.

I tried the Rockshock that came on my RFX, it feels just OK (even with the offset bushings).

I have 4 tired CTD shocks for Burners, I might just send the newest one to fox and pay the $185 for a full rebuild. But of course a custom tune is better if you do not weigh 160lbs and rider average.
 

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It's carbon dontcha know.
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4,292 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
But of course a custom tune is better if you do not weigh 160lbs and rider average.
I'm more 180lbs and a hack :D

If COVID hadn't ended the world, this year was likely new trail bike time for me. But a few hundred is more easily found at the moment versus $5k...

I'd considered a DVO Topaz T3 when they were on sale a couple of weeks ago, but I've missed that boat. CC DBIL's aren't too pricey either...
 

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Team Blindspot
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2,987 Posts
Hey 6E. Was just looking at some pics from Moab 12 yrs ago on an old archive. Good times.

I have a Topaz on my Burner, it works very well. Sucks you missed the sale, I got mine last yr during their Sea Otter Sale.

Keep us posted as to which way you are going with a new bike.
 

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It's carbon dontcha know.
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4,292 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hey 6E. Was just looking at some pics from Moab 12 yrs ago on an old archive. Good times.

I have a Topaz on my Burner, it works very well. Sucks you missed the sale, I got mine last yr during their Sea Otter Sale.

Keep us posted as to which way you are going with a new bike.
Definite good times, I'm lucky enough to go most years now, but always think back to that first trip to Fruita and Moab with the homers.
 

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It's carbon dontcha know.
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4,292 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Anyone tried the Manitou McLeod? Seems to have okay reviews and the price is palatable for something hopefully short term.

Otherwise the Cane Creek DBAir IL is twice the price and has more dials to set badly...
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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35,025 Posts
Anyone tried the Manitou McLeod? Seems to have okay reviews and the price is palatable for something hopefully short term.

Otherwise the Cane Creek DBAir IL is twice the price and has more dials to set badly...
It hasn't worked out well for me, it was a crazy fiasco with the reducers to get stuff that wouldn't knock, Fox hardware knocked, manitou's own hardware knocked, spending money, etc. Then when manitou finally supplied hardware that wasn't loose, the shock was simply way off for my pivot. Reading the thread, many (most?) users say they are running the "King Can". Spend another 80-100. Then get that and yeah, it seems to work fairly well, but the HSR is too slow and it packs up on some stuff, significantly worse than my tuned Avy DPS and my race-day lockout DPS. That said, it does work a lot better than before the King Can (before, I couldn't put more than 80-something PSI in the REAR shock, or it wouldn't get anywhere near full travel, harsh everywhere) and on some smooth trail networks, you might not notice the HSR problem, but when I get into anything chunky, it packs pretty bad. It likes to run a lot of LSR, which is cool with me, but the knob has no indentations, so it's kind of frustrating to try and set,as in go back to a certain setting, or incrementally change it. Oh yeah, spent some money on their remote, but the remote just doesn't work for crap, went with a micro-shift shifter instead, that actually works. So now I'm getting the IFP tool ($40) to change out the rebound-stack, but you could say it's been a bit of a nightmare. My advice, find a DPS that fits, send it to Avalanche to have it valved for your riding. That's a way better idea IMO and it'll save you a ton of money too. More dials doesn't help things, the circuits have to have the right fluid flows, designs, blowoffs, shim-spring curve, etc.

The reason I still have it is I like to tinker, to see if I can ever get it to be my one-shock for the Pivot, with both a lockout-ish feature and great damping characteristics.
 

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It's carbon dontcha know.
Joined
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4,292 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
It hasn't worked out well for me, it was a crazy fiasco with the reducers to get stuff that wouldn't knock, Fox hardware knocked, manitou's own hardware knocked, spending money, etc. Then when manitou finally supplied hardware that wasn't loose, the shock was simply way off for my pivot. Reading the thread, many (most?) users say they are running the "King Can". Spend another 80-100. Then get that and yeah, it seems to work fairly well, but the HSR is too slow and it packs up on some stuff, significantly worse than my tuned Avy DPS and my race-day lockout DPS. That said, it does work a lot better than before the King Can (before, I couldn't put more than 80-something PSI in the REAR shock, or it wouldn't get anywhere near full travel, harsh everywhere) and on some smooth trail networks, you might not notice the HSR problem, but when I get into anything chunky, it packs pretty bad. It likes to run a lot of LSR, which is cool with me, but the knob has no indentations, so it's kind of frustrating to try and set,as in go back to a certain setting, or incrementally change it. Oh yeah, spent some money on their remote, but the remote just doesn't work for crap, went with a micro-shift shifter instead, that actually works. So now I'm getting the IFP tool ($40) to change out the rebound-stack, but you could say it's been a bit of a nightmare. My advice, find a DPS that fits, send it to Avalanche to have it valved for your riding. That's a way better idea IMO and it'll save you a ton of money too. More dials doesn't help things, the circuits have to have the right fluid flows, designs, blowoffs, shim-spring curve, etc.

The reason I still have it is I like to tinker, to see if I can ever get it to be my one-shock for the Pivot, with both a lockout-ish feature and great damping characteristics.
Yeah I'd read through the thread and the mounting hardware issues and lack of indents on rebound seems like poor QC and design. Having to shell out for the King can just puts it that much closer to the Cane Creek.
 
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