[johnstwf]

I just ordered an 06 RacerX frame from Bob's Bicycles (with Fox F100RLC and King headset). I am planning on doing the build myself. Bob's is installing the headset for me, and the steerer tube on the fork should be pre-cut. I know I need to have the BB faced and threads chased before I start the bolt-on process. I want to make sure this build is done right, and I'm smart enough to know that I don't know everything. Is there anything I need to be aware of before I start assembling? Any advice is welcome . . .

 

[Bikerbob.com]

How to build a Titus

Go to this thread. I should have the final assembly posted before you get your frame unpacked.
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=262966
What's the rest of the build?

Bikerbob (not Bob's Bicycles)

 

[Mr Magoo]

2 points

1. Don't cut the steerer too short. Tell your tech to leave it long. You can always put spacers above and below the stem. This will allow you to experiment with riding position. You may want a change after months on the bike. The large RX has a 5 inch head tube so my steerer is over 9 inches. A longer steerer will also give your fork greater resale. I was looking for a used fork and many steerers are under 8 inches on used forks, ruling me out. You can cut the steerer later when you have eliminated variables. Its as easy as getting your cable lengths right.

2. Buy a repair stand. You will work so much smarter. I have an ultimate pro that I got for $150-180. It is a small percentage of what you have already invested and you will keep your bike in better tune and notice more using a stand over the next few years.

Have fun.

 

[crisillo]

I second Mr. Magoo|'s tips and recommend yu get a torque wrench if possible... I know it can be done without it... but it helps doing things right the first time (Bob also recommends this on the thread he linked)

Good luck!

 

[johnstwf]

Thanks for the Help! - And another question . . .

Thanks for the guidance! The how-to is exactly what I needed. I just picked up a torque wrench today. I have most of the other tools and workstand already.

One question on the frame preparation. You mentioned facing of the brake mounts. I have never heard of this before, how is it done? I am planning on installing Avid Juicy 7's (2006), so can I assume that I don't need to worry about it?

Thanks again

 

[Mr Magoo]

Facing

Facing insures that the disc tabs are perfectly parallel to the axle path. Front or rear tabs may already be fine and not need it. If they are off, the rotor may not be perfectly parallel to the brake pads and you can get some rub. I would prefer to try assembly before removing material (Thickness/strength) from your fork or frame. Fork lowers are cast and may not be perfect. Rear frame tabs may have uneven paint or welding issues.
Or they may not. Assemble before grinding.
The need for facing can vary with the manufactured parts that you are bolting on. I had XT hubs for years before buying Kings. Same Louise brakes, but got rotor rub with the Kings and had to use a Magura gnan-o-matic tool.

Thanks for the guidance! The how-to is exactly what I needed. I just picked up a torque wrench today. I have most of the other tools and workstand already.

One question on the frame preparation. You mentioned facing of the brake mounts. I have never heard of this before, how is it done? I am planning on installing Avid Juicy 7's (2006), so can I assume that I don't need to worry about it?

Thanks again

 

[notenoughtime]

I know my recent racer-x came faced by Titus. If you look at the rear tabs, and the inner face looks shiney and clean, then they've faced it for you. Since you're using the Juicy 7's, you really don't need facing either way, unless you can't get far enough away from the rotor. Other brake systems like shimano and hopes need facing due to the way the spacers are setup. The CPS on avid brakes really take care most uneven tabs. If you do need facing, don't just run a file on the tabs. Call up local shops and see if they have a disc facing tool and head on over. Have fun building it up...the best part begins when you're done building.

 

[demo_slug]

protect your frame's finish. don't even pedal it down the driveway without protecting your frame from cable rub. the paint or ano can be gone thru in one ride if the cable routing is not right. and chances are.... that you will need to fidle to find the right routing.

use duct tape to start with. its cheap and everybody has a roll. the bike will look ugly now, but once the cables are sorted out then you bike will look better in the long run.

 

[Warp]

use duct tape to start with.

Duct tape sticks to things sometimes way too hard... it could remove some paint when you try to remove it. We've had it happen even in tough paintjobs. There's a reason why masking tape (which is used over/around paintjobs) is used and not duct tape.

Try with masking tape or alike.

 

[BraveHeart]

Get hand built wheels from Bob's. I've been riding a pair for a year and yet to true them once.

I think the BB is prefaced by Titus, well there was no paint there and my external BB fit real good.

 

[demo_slug]

Duct tape sticks to things sometimes way too hard... it could remove some paint when you try to remove it. We've had it happen even in tough paintjobs. There's a reason why masking tape (which is used over/around paintjobs) is used and not duct tape.

Try with masking tape or alike.

good point. don't leave it too long. I used duct tape on my bikes. for at least week. it stayed gooey. had to rub the glue off. how long did you leave it on? it will turn rock hard in a few years.

 

[Warp]

good point. don't leave it too long. I used duct tape on my bikes. for at least week. it stayed gooey. had to rub the glue off. how long did you leave it on? it will turn rock hard in a few years.

Depends on weather... could be a few weeks, could be years. Extreme temps and exposure to outdoors may get it hard in no time. In wet environments is not much a deal.