Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
OgdenMTBdude801
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently purchased a 2015 GT Force Carbon X.. I was just wondering what some nice upgrades would be. I already put on a Shimano XT 1x11cassete, derailer,shifter, and some spank 800mm handlebars. I'm just some what new to this but I feel like my riding skills are pretty decent for the short time I been riding. i I do not like the rear shock due to the fact the rebound control is covered by the bracket. So I have to use a small Allen wrench to adjust it and its alot harder than It sounds lol.
Rear Travel 150mm
Rear Shock FOX Float X CTD Adjust, 7.5"x2" Air Shock, with Rebound and Compression Adjust
Fork FOX 34 Float 27.5" CTD FIT, FIT Damper, 15mm x100mm Thru Axle, with Adjustable Rebound and Compression, Lockout, Tapered Alloy Steerer
Fork Travel 160mm
Head Tube Diameter Tapered
Headset Orbit C-40-ACB
Handlebar Race Face Respond, 1/2" Rise, 785mm Width

Stem Race Face Respond, 45mm Length
Grips GT Statement Double Lock-On
Brakes Shimano Deore Hydraulic Disc with 180mm Centerlock Rotors
Brake Levers Shimano Deore, BL-M615
Drivetrain 1x
Shifters Shimano SLX, SL-M670, Rapid Fire, Right Side Only
Front Derailleur N/A
Rear Derailleur Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, Direct Mount, RD-M675-GS-D
ISCG Tabs
Chainguide Top Guide
Cranks Race Face Evolve
Chainrings 32 Tooth Narrow Wide
Bottom Bracket
Pedals N/A
Chain KMC X10
Cassette Shimano Deore XT, CS-M771-10, 10-Speed, 11-36 Tooth
Rims WTB ST i23 TCS 650b, 32 Hole
Hubs Shimano HB-M678, SLX, for Center Lock Disc Rotor
Spokes DT Swiss Industry Stainless
Tires Continental Mountain King 27.5"x2.4", Folding Bead
Saddle WTB Silverado
Seatpost KS LEV Integra, with Remote
Seatpost Diameter 34.9mm
Seatpost Clamp All Terra Alloy Bolt-On, 38.1mm
Rear Dropout / Hub Dimensions 12mm x142mm Maxle
Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle tire
Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Bicycle wheel Tire Bicycle wheel rim

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,137 Posts
Tires are the easiest. The Contis are heavier by 200g than Schwalbe Hans Dampf or Maxxis High Roller 2. 23mm inner rim wheels are heavy and you can go to a 30mm to 35mm inner carbon DT350 wheelset from BTLOS for less than $800. Wider rims give you more tire options from Maxxis and Bontrager XR Teams. CushCore in the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I’d replace the shock with a Manitou McLeod and the fork with a Manitou Mattoc comp/pro. You can buy both cheaper than a set of carbon wheels and it will completely change your riding experience once you have it set up.
 

·
Wanna ride bikes?
Joined
·
9,931 Posts
I'd replace the shock with a Manitou McLeod and the fork with a Manitou Mattoc comp/pro. You can buy both cheaper than a set of carbon wheels and it will completely change your riding experience once you have it set up.
If I'm replacing perfectly good suspension it's not going to be with a Manitou comp anything. When someone is on i23 rims and you recommend replacing the suspension, it tells me you'd rather burn cash than make meaningful upgrades.

OP, wheels are a great place to spend your money. A good rear hub and wider modern rims will transform your ride more than anything else. You don't need carbon hoops to have good wheels either, aluminum rims are excellent and 1/6th the cost.

Edit: on yeah, and if you really want to "upgrade", get a 29er. ;) :ciappa: :prft:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,310 Posts
Hey well I got money to spend and I know enough but I am still learning. Just wanted some opinions on upgrades. Nothing wrong with that.
I think what everyone is saying is ride what you have before you drop a grand on a set of wheels. I know it isn't what you want to hear, but stay with me for a minute. As you keep advancing you're going to start messing with tire pressures and hitting bigger jumps/drops. I would rather dent or destroy your WTB i23 wheels by using too low a pressure, bad landing, etc. than a 800 dollar set of wheels. Set that money aside to a place where it won't be touched, ride, and upgrade these wheels a year later, or the entire bike. Just my .02. Nothing wrong with what you're doing, but it may cost more in the future than learning on your current parts. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
If I'm replacing perfectly good suspension it's not going to be with a Manitou comp anything. When someone is on i23 rims and you recommend replacing the suspension, it tells me you'd rather burn cash than make meaningful upgrades.

OP, wheels are a great place to spend your money. A good rear hub and wider modern rims will transform your ride more than anything else. You don't need carbon hoops to have good wheels either, aluminum rims are excellent and 1/6th the cost.

Edit: on yeah, and if you really want to "upgrade", get a 29er. ;) :ciappa: :prft:
Why do motorsport teams spend obscene amounts of money on suspension and time setting it up? Have you ever had good suspension on a bike/car/motorbike? It's life changing. You can have the best wheels and tyres in the world but they are useless if they aren't in contact with the ground.

I just replaced my fox 36 for mrp ribbon forks because I couldn't hang on to the bike after 3 runs because my hands were so sore. With the new fork I can do many more runs and do harder lines. I have more front end grip because my front wheel stays on the ground more instead of bouncing me off the track on rough steeper sections and I have way more confidence in the bike.

If you want to spend money on your bike then go ahead. I'm pretty new to it as well and I wasn't going to get new forks because I thought that I just needed to ride more. I'm glad I spent the money though, I love riding my bike now instead of worrying about sore hands for a week after a ride.

At the very least get the fork and shock serviced and tuned if possible to suit the rider.
 

·
Wanna ride bikes?
Joined
·
9,931 Posts
I just replaced my fox 36 for mrp ribbon forks because I couldn't hang on to the bike after 3 runs because my hands were so sore. With the new fork I can do many more runs and do harder lines.
I never said suspension is a bad place to spend your money, it's an excellent upgrade for some people. Given the choice of a Manitou comp fork or a Fox 34 I'll take the Fox 34 every time. I also happen to own both.

If you couldn't get along with the Fox 36, it wasn't the forks fault. Some test and tune time and learning how to set up your suspension is a lot cheaper than just replacing it with something else.
 

·
OgdenMTBdude801
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Complelty understandable. Lol I got the bike for a grand and was expecting to spend a few thousand on a bike this year so I just kind of had the itch to upgrade a few things. But you're right maybe I need to ride it out for the season first before dropping that kind of cash. Thanks for all the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I spent plenty of time trying to set it up but it’s pretty well documented how terrible the 17’ 36 is.

Why is spending money on your bike frowned upon a lot on this forum? I bought a new fork because I could afford it, I set it up to the MRP settings and it ripped from the first run. I didn’t have to spend hours reading through a thread dedicated to how terrible the fork is to figure how to set it up because the fox settings aren’t even close. I won’t ever buy a fox fork or shock because of how terrible this fork is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,415 Posts
Why is spending money on your bike frowned upon a lot on this forum? .
Seems to me that shopping actually gets more attention here than mountain biking does, in general. Even to the point that I'm pretty sure the most common advice given when someone asks a question about riding is 'go buy something'. :skep:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
I have a bike from similar vintage ('15) albeit mine is a SC, but I just upgraded the wheelset this offseason, which has already been recommended. Getting somewhat wider rims (I don't know what the max size tire you can fit on your frame). For me, it was 2.5-2.6 in rear, so I went with a 25mm internal width rim. Then pick out your tires and set up tubeless. As you just upgraded the drivetrain, I think the wheelset makes the most sense. Your tires are the most important part of your bike (just like on your car). Spend some extra time figuring out what you want out of your tires. I lean toward durability, then price, then grip, then weight. By the time I was done I was in for $1Kish, and that was used wheelset. Not hard to spend $$$. Good luck
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top