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New rear wheel for a mechanically unsympathetic individual

1733 Views 21 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  minimusprime
Howdy all,

I need to build up or buy a rear wheel for a 2019 Norco fuild fs3.
The rear hub appears to be bent somehow (cassette has significant wobble and is just generally a poor low quality hub) and the rim is recked (cracking from the spoke nipple toward the tyre and has a significant dent or rather bend in the vertical axis).

The user of the bike (not me) is relatively new and isn't sending massive drops, isn't just riding fire trails but doesn't have the greatest mechanical sympathy.

Im leaning toward a dt Swiss rim but I don't know what one. I have built up, and personally love my fr560 on my ebike but that is a little heavy duty for this application.

For hubs I wouldn't have a clue what to look for.

Budget is roughly: under 500 (best value possible)

So hit me with your suggestions and comments. You haven't let me down before.
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I'd probably do a DT Swiss EX511 rim. Can't go wrong with a DT 350 hub. I also try to run as much tire as possible to protect said rim from roots and rocks. You might look into a Cushcore or some other insert to protect the rim from strikes.

Give him time. If he continues to wreck rims and it gets expensive, he'll probably become mechanically sympathetic.
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Yep. EX511 or Spank rim, and a DT350. Done.
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Yep. EX511 or Spank rim, and a DT350. Done.
I would skip the Spank, the 345s were great rims, the new ones have a list a mile long of exactly how they must be built, tensioned, what spokes to use, nipple washes, and so on. The Race Face Arc 30 HD would be another good option. Use double butted spokes, not straight gauge. The 350 hub is the logical choice, strong, reasonable weight, easy to service, durable, and reasonably priced.
What size tire? At what pressure?
another vote for ex511 rear wheel. I run 511's on my park bike, I did 4 successive park days on it this last year, and had several brutal rim strikes (despite 28psi and cushcore) that were hard enough to be audible on gopro... and the wheel held true and the dings in it were nearly impossible to find by sight or by feel. They are a bit heavy, but for my riding it's as idiot proof as any rim I've ever owned.
Give him time. If he continues to wreck rims and it gets expensive, he'll probably become mechanically sympathetic.
I just assumed from the title this was about my wife.

As for wheels, Chris King has treated me well. Buy once, never cry.
I would skip the Spank, the 345s were great rims, the new ones have a list a mile long of exactly how they must be built, tensioned, what spokes to use, nipple washes, and so on. The Race Face Arc 30 HD would be another good option. Use double butted spokes, not straight gauge. The 350 hub is the logical choice, strong, reasonable weight, easy to service, durable, and reasonably priced.
This must be pretty new. The spanks I built last year, didn't have that ;)
This must be pretty new. The spanks I built last year, didn't have that ;)
Fox Fork fit rebuilds are more straightforward. As far as I know, only Pillar makes their preferred spoke specification. From their website:

Radially Compliant Rim Designs, such as Spank Industries Spank 350, Spank 350 Vibrocore, Spank 359, and Spank 359 Vibrocore rim models, must be built to A-Level specifications, and only by a qualified wheel builder/technician.
External Nipple Washers should be used on all Spank 350 and Spank 359 rim wheel builds. Spank highly recommends the use of nipple washers to improve spoke tension longevity in Radially Compliant wheels.

Spank 350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims produced May 2019 or later, include embedded nipple washers. Spank 350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims produced before May 2019, do not include embedded nipple washers. If nipple washers are used, it is important to first ensure the nipple access holes are completely free of Vibrocore, and no Vibrocore or residue exists between rim and nipple washer.

Spokes used in Radially Compliant Wheel builds, must be high quality, with high fatigue life, and break point over 300 kg. Single Butted/Plain Gauge spokes are not sufficient for radial compliant wheels. Spank recommends Triple Butted Spokes, of 2.2/1.8/2.0 mm thickness.

Nipples used in Radially Compliant Wheel builds, must be flat head, external type nipples. Internal Nipples, or DSN/Square Drive nipples are not suitable.

3 Cross Lacing must be used on all Radially Compliant rim wheel builds.

350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims, should be checked carefully to ensure no Vibrocore or residue exists between nipple head and rim. If any traces if Vibrocore or residue are present, they should be scraped away before nipples are inserted into the rim for building.

Spoke Tension on the drive-side spokes of Radially Compliant rim wheel builds, is recommended at 110-120 kgf.

Spoke tension throughout drive side spokes should not vary more than 5% maximum.

Spoke tension throughout non-drive side spokes should not vary more than 5% maximum.

Nipple Lubricant must be used between nipple head and rim interface. Lubricant must not be used on thread of spoke or nipple.

Light to Medium Thread Lock, which allows for tension adjustments without compromising function, (example: LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242®), must be applied on thread of spoke or nipple, before tensioning. A suitable environmentally conscious alternative to industrial thread lock agents, is boiled linseed oil.

Roundness Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.4mm deviation maximum.

Flatness Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.3mm deviation maximum.

Dish Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.4mm deviation maximum.

Maintenance Requirements – Radially Compliant Wheels should be checked for spoke tension stability/loosening, after your first few rides, and regularly for the life of the wheelset (depending on frequency and severity of use).
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So you're upset that they recommend triple butted spokes and washers on rims designed to be built for downhill and free ride applications. Ok. Also, many rims have specific nipple requirements due to interference.

It's interesting that providing some guidance is viewed as a negative. As an engineer, it seems they just actually put some thought into this.
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That was my impression too. The new recommended build specs tell me they understand their product and want the end user to get the most out of them. The fact that they don't sell any of the wheel building products they mention tells me they didn't just randomly pull this out because they felt like writing something.
another vote for ex511 rear wheel. I run 511's on my park bike, I did 4 successive park days on it this last year, and had several brutal rim strikes (despite 28psi and cushcore) that were hard enough to be audible on gopro... and the wheel held true and the dings in it were nearly impossible to find by sight or by feel. They are a bit heavy, but for my riding it's as idiot proof as any rim I've ever owned.
What casing were you running?
Sounds like the 511's are a goer.

What would be your second recommendation if I couldn't get my hands on a 350?
So you're upset that they recommend triple butted spokes and washers on rims designed to be built for downhill and free ride applications. Ok. Also, many rims have specific nipple requirements due to interference.

It's interesting that providing some guidance is viewed as a negative. As an engineer, it seems they just actually put some thought into this.
what you're missing is that it's a terribly flexy rim with the term Radially Compliant added to it. rims intended to flex are sh!t, plain and simple...
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What casing were you running?
Michelain dh22 in back, maxxis assegai dd in front. My rim strikes were simultaneous front/rear, so it was just straight up bad life choices and (hopefully momentary) lack of talent. To be fair to me (and the tires) this was at Northstar at tahoe and mammoth and I cannot confirm, nor deny if alcohol was involved.
Are there any significant reasons why I would want to use 32 over 28 Spoke rims. I would rather use 32 because more is more, but 28 hole rims and hubs seem to be in stock far more often.
Are there any significant reasons why I would want to use 32 over 28 Spoke rims. I would rather use 32 because more is more, but 28 hole rims and hubs seem to be in stock far more often.

Refer back to thread title for your answer.
Refer back to thread title for your answer.
But how much are we talking, a small difference or a world of a difference?
But how much are we talking, a small difference or a world of a difference?

From your OP this person's wheels need all the help they can get.

Put differently, no one can feel the difference in weight from 4 spokes.

But after a few months -- or a season -- everyone can benefit from those additional 4 pieces of reinforcement.
FE, now to find a 29" 32 hole ex511 that's in stock :rolleyes:
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