Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

601 - 620 of 696 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Great info. Would any of you have any suggestions to have the bike shop look at and take care of before I pick it up?

I’m also debating to have them swap out the 34 140 for a 36 GRIP2 150 but that’s a $1000 up-charge. They suggested Nows a great time to sell parts but that a huge risk.
The main reason I went with the 36 was to slacken the head angle although the stiffer fork is nice on the fast chunky stuff.
For me I knew I didn’t want a HT angle steeper than 66 and loved my last bike at 65.5.
If you think the 34 has the characteristics that you want but still want the steeper HT angle then put on an angleset. That ‘a what I did on my last bike (67 to 65.5) and it completely transformed that bike. Check out Works Components anglesets. Unless you are comfortable installing headsets I’d have a shop do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
The main reason I went with the 36 was to slacken the head angle although the stiffer fork is nice on the fast chunky stuff.
For me I knew I didn’t want a HT angle steeper than 66 and loved my last bike at 65.5.
If you think the 34 has the characteristics that you want but still want the steeper HT angle then put on an angleset. That ‘a what I did on my last bike (67 to 65.5) and it completely transformed that bike. Check out Works Components anglesets. Unless you are comfortable installing headsets I’d have a shop do it.
I guess I don’t know but you’re right. I can change the headset at any time down the road. This will actually be the first bike I’ve had in many years that wasn’t long-travel 36 or Lyrik. I’m mid-40s now and after a really bad crash two years ago I just want to slow down. And I’m content with it which I’m happy to come to realization with. Plus, I have a young daughter who I’ll be riding with which means I’ll be going slow. A lot! The Occam seems perfect for this job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,535 Posts
Sizing question. Do you think a large would be ok for someone 6'1"? According to the sizing chart an XL might be better, but a used large just became available. Do these generally run a bit big or small compared to the sizing chart?
if you are still in the market ping Wes at Velorangutan, he has demos available. I am 5’11” and ride an L. If you want to borrow my L, let me know. Pretty sure we know each other and if you are who I think you are, happy to let you ride mine. It is a 2019 but close enough to a 2020 that I demoed last year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
For those that might be interested, my Occam is back in the shop to figure out the wheel noise (see earlier post or the post in the Wheels forum). They have both the OEM wheel and the replacement. We'll see what they come up with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
I had a test ride on an XL Occam and I’m 6’1” and it’s great. I’m pretty sure a L would be too small. Also, I rode a XL Optic and it was too long. Very notably different. So glad I did this because I have/had a deposit on an Optic. Needless to say I bought the Occam and I’m pumped!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
I had a test ride on an XL Occam and I’m 6’1” and it’s great. I’m pretty sure a L would be too small. Also, I rode a XL Optic and it was too long. Very notably different. So glad I did this because I have/had a deposit on an Optic. Needless to say I bought the Occam and I’m pumped!
I'm sure you'll dig it! Never got a chance to ride the Optic but it was on my shortlist of bikes when I was shopping. Love my Occam though!
 

·
Registered
Orbea Occam 2020 M10 stock
Joined
·
279 Posts
I had a test ride on an XL Occam and I’m 6’1” and it’s great. I’m pretty sure a L would be too small. Also, I rode a XL Optic and it was too long. Very notably different. So glad I did this because I have/had a deposit on an Optic. Needless to say I bought the Occam and I’m pumped!
Just sitting, I didn't feel that much difference between M and L on the Occam. Think this is due to steep seat angle. I'm pretty sure that it would be the same between L and XL.
IMHO, Optic and Occam are two different bikes that the only thing in common is the rear travel numbers. Optic is marginally better on the downs (or for same speed - marginally safer), but Occam has him whenever you turn a pedal, be it uphill or on mellow trails. To me, the Occam is very impressive how it pushes forward with each pedal stroke. Reminds me of earlier Santa Cruz bikes that propelled forward if you just looked at the pedals :)

P.S. To remove the rear wheel, I need to use the allen key on the "pull and turn" side of the axle ? This pull and turn is for removing the hanger I suppose ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Just to double check, people are having luck with the Lezyne Flow SL cage?
Yes, that's the one I'm using. It has to be slid all the way down in it's adjustable slots to clear the frame cross brace. In that position nothing touches the frame including the bottle. I did put a piece of frame protection tape on the inside of the cross brace to keep the bottle from scuffing the paint when putting the bottle back in.

P.S. To remove the rear wheel, I need to use the allen key on the "pull and turn" side of the axle ? This pull and turn is for removing the hanger I suppose ?
Exactly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
193 Posts
I did put a piece of frame protection tape on the inside of the cross brace to keep the bottle from scuffing the paint when putting the bottle back in.
That's exactly the first thing i did also on my bike.
Try both an "old" bontrager side load cage and now the lighter Elite Cannibal Xc. No problem with both. However the bontrager seems to hold the bottle tighter. Maybe if i plan to do many "gravity days", i will put the bontrager on for security.
I see that the bottle, when riding, is shacking a little with both cages, and definitly touches a little on the transparent protection tape.(i've used the thicker one, the same as used in my downtube for protection).
Not bad, simply replace the small tape if needed.

I've not understand how to remove the hanger...I remove the axle, but the pull & turn seems locked. Should i pull with finger or with a tool to help me? And then turn in which direction?Counterclockwise? It was a little tight so i didn't insist.
thanks
 

·
Class Clown
Joined
·
2,956 Posts
Funny enough I have no more standover on the M vs the L. While standover is an inch less so is the headtube so it puts me further forward. However the lower stack height and wheelbase is noticeable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
For all of you that put frame protection tape on the frame, did you notice the raised “Occam” or “Orbea” giving you any trouble or did you just lay the tape right over with no bubbles?

Also, that plastic downtube protector sucks! I haven’t ridden the bike properly yet and it’s already peeling away. Ha!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
For all of you that put frame protection tape on the frame, did you notice the raised “Occam” or “Orbea” giving you any trouble or did you just lay the tape right over with no bubbles?

Also, that plastic downtube protector sucks! I haven’t ridden the bike properly yet and it’s already peeling away. Ha!
The Occam and Orbea logos were very smooth on my bike so there was no issue with frame protection film. Apply plenty of pressure with squeegee strokes and it will adhere just fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
For all of you that put frame protection tape on the frame, did you notice the raised “Occam” or “Orbea” giving you any trouble or did you just lay the tape right over with no bubbles?

Also, that plastic downtube protector sucks! I haven’t ridden the bike properly yet and it’s already peeling away. Ha!
My Occam logo on the top tube felt like it had a ridge around it. But when putting on the invisiframe I didn’t have any issues and it’s perfectly smooth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
So I know the blue book has the bottom bracket as A BSA 73mm threaded, is that though a Sram dub BSA bottom bracket?
Alas don't really know my way around BB's
Thanks


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,359 Posts
So I know the blue book has the bottom bracket as A BSA 73mm threaded, is that though a Sram dub BSA bottom bracket?
Alas don't really know my way around BB's
Thanks


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Your bike is a Orbea Occam M30 Eagle which comes with a SRAM Descendant CNC Eagle Dub Boost 32t crankset.


The bottom bracket type you need to replace the stock one would be a BSA 73mm threaded dub bottom bracket.

BSA means that it has British threads (there's also ITA Italian threads for bottom brackets but they only come on very rare frames nowadays).
73mm is the width of the bottom bracket (68mm width is a road frame bottom bracket whilst 73mm width is a MTB bottom frame bottom bracket).
Dub means that the crank spindle diameter is 28.99mm which is a SRAM only size because they wanted to add more standards! (Shimano crank spindles are 24mm diameter whilst 30mm diameter crank spindles are also used by many manufacturers. There's also the older SRAM GXP bottom brackets which have mismatched drive and non drive side diameter fitments).

This page shows how to install a SRAM Dub bottom bracket and crank: :)

How To: Installing Sram Eagle DUB Crankset and Bottom Bracket

If you're trying to get a factory fitted crank off for the first time that 8mm drive side allen bolt can be insanely tight and hard to undo! It might need a lot of force to unfasten.
 
601 - 620 of 696 Posts
Top