Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Mongoose Malus 26" that I have built into an e- bike and for xmas my wife got me a Bucklos 120mm suspension fork. I have never changed out a fork on a bike before, I thought it would be as simple as re-use all spacers and bearings and slap it together. However, after I put it on the bike I have a lot of slop where the neck slides through the receiver of the bike frame.

I'm by no means a bike expert and I'm sure I screwed up some where, I'll get pics of it this evening. Any help will be 1000% appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pix... yes.
Assume "neck" = stem, yes?
And what's a receiver? Head tube?
Did you move the crown race from old fork to new?
=sParty

I apologize on my terminology.... I just googled it all.
Neck = Stem,
Receiver = head tube.

Yes, removed the crown race from the old fork and pressed it onto the new fork.
 

· Cycologist
Joined
·
17,564 Posts
Wait a minute, the stem does not slide through the head tube. The stem clamps to the steer tube above the head tube. Do you mean the steer tube of the fork is loose in the head tube? Pix would help.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,367 Posts
It is quite possible that the steerer tube on the new fork is longer. In which case you would need to cut it down and either install a new star nut or just push the one that is in there further down. On that note, did you install the star nut to begin with? They usually come with the fork but separate and need to be installed.
 

· Out spokin'
In cog? Neato!
Joined
·
19,651 Posts
It is quite possible that the steerer tube on the new fork is longer. In which case you would need to cut it down and either install a new star nut or just push the one that is in there further down. On that note, did you install the star nut to begin with? They usually come with the fork but separate and need to be installed.
I had a similar thought.
Perhaps more stem spacers is all that's needed.
These can be placed above or below the stem, eliminating the need to cut the steerer in either case.
=sParty
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It is quite possible that the steerer tube on the new fork is longer. In which case you would need to cut it down and either install a new star nut or just push the one that is in there further down. On that note, did you install the star nut to begin with? They usually come with the fork but separate and need to be installed.
I pressed the star nut out of the old fork and re used it in the new one.

You may be 100% right about the new fork is longer, I have about a 1/8" gap between the retainer cap (not sure what it is called, the cap that the bolt goes through that screws into the star nut) and the top of my handle bar clamps (that is with using all the spacers that came on the bike). So, should I just cut it down a 3/16" of an inch so the cap has some suck down to it or should I get another spacer?

I'll get pics tonight, showing everything.
 

· Elitest thrill junkie
Joined
·
42,023 Posts
Need to learn about bikes before ordering parts for bikes. Start with the bike shop. Watch when they work on it and ask questions. Watch some videos online. It's not a good idea to order first and try to make it work later, you really want to fully understand first and have no surprises. Even still, you can get the rare surprise, but then it's truly a one-off, rather than something that any mechanic would know. If you want to work on your bikes, you have to become a mechanic and that starts first with research and learning. Again, this is where the bike-shop comes into it significantly, order the tools you need there, talk to the mechanics, etc.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shinkers

· Registered
Joined
·
1,367 Posts
I pressed the star nut out of the old fork and re used it in the new one.

You may be 100% right about the new fork is longer, I have about a 1/8" gap between the retainer cap (not sure what it is called, the cap that the bolt goes through that screws into the star nut) and the top of my handle bar clamps (that is with using all the spacers that came on the bike). So, should I just cut it down a 3/16" of an inch so the cap has some suck down to it or should I get another spacer?

I'll get pics tonight, showing everything.
Either will work. Like sParty mentioned, the spacers would be easier. If you put spacers below it will raise your handlebar height, if above you will just have an extra bit of mast above your stem. Some people worry about knocking knees on it and some don’t like how it looks so choose to cut the steerer instead.
 

· Your bike sucks
Joined
·
3,519 Posts
Post your pics, that'll help the conversation. You really shouldn't reuse the star nut - best would be to use the new one. I think you're going to wind up: 1) cutting the steerer on the new fork to match what you had 2) reinstalling a new star nut.

Will that fork fit a fat tire?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Need to learn about bikes before ordering parts for bikes. Start with the bike shop. Watch when they work on it and ask questions. Watch some videos online. It's not a good idea to order first and try to make it work later, you really want to fully understand first and have no surprises. Even still, you can get the rare surprise, but then it's truly a one-off, rather than something that any mechanic would know. If you want to work on your bikes, you have to become a mechanic and that starts first with research and learning. Again, this is where the bike-shop comes into it significantly, order the tools you need there, talk to the mechanics, etc.
I will agree and disagree with you. I agree that I should have probably done more research, however I watched several youtube vids about doing this fork swap and not once did they cover "if you do __ wrong than you may have wobble/ slop between the neck and the head tube". Although this fork was an xmas gift it was I obviously researched it and did my homework before putting it on my wish list to my wife. I re-watched the videos a bunch over the weekend trying to trouble shoot my issue.

As for the bike shops, since this bike has been converted to an e-bike no bike shops local to me will touch it. They either don't work on them or will only work on ones they built/ sold and wont touch diy bikes. Asking a bike shop for advice has been the same answer each time, "I have to see it first, but oh ya, I dont work on e-bikes". So in doing so I learned how to center up the back wheel by adjusting the spokes myself, I learned how to install and adjust the cable operated hydraulic brakes, and adjust my derailer all on this bike. Whereas on my Fuji MTB it always goes to the shop to "tune ups".
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Post your pics, that'll help the conversation. You really shouldn't reuse the star nut - best would be to use the new one. I think you're going to wind up: 1) cutting the steerer on the new fork to match what you had 2) reinstalling a new star nut.

Will that fork fit a fat tire?

I was actually kind of surprised and disappointed that it didn't come with a new star nut, and I watched a couple vids where bike shops actually pressed the old star nut out and put it in the new fork and I have a hydraulic press I used to press it out so it didn't get damaged. It went in the new fork very tight and doesn't move at all.

Yes, the fork I have is specifically for a 26" fat bike.
 

· Your bike sucks
Joined
·
3,519 Posts
I was actually kind of surprised and disappointed that it didn't come with a new star nut, and I watched a couple vids where bike shops actually pressed the old star nut out and put it in the new fork and I have a hydraulic press I used to press it out so it didn't get damaged. It went in the new fork very tight and doesn't move at all.

Yes, the fork I have is specifically for a 26" fat bike.
Odds are it's fine. Best practice would be new - also ensuring your star nuts are appropriate diameter for the steerer tubing/material. Starnuts are only needed to add preload before you tighten the stem which is what provides the clamping force.

Cheers.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks to whom ever suggested that maybe the neck was too long! I trimmed it down about 5/32" of an inch and man did it snug everything up. This put the neck about 1/16" below the hand bar clamp, creating a suck down when I put the cap on. It is good and tight now!

This pic is before I trimmed it, you can see the 1/8" gap.
Bicycle part Carbon Rim Font Personal protective equipment


This pic is after I trimmed it.

Bicycle Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle frame Bicycle tire Bicycle handlebar


Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Vehicle Automotive tire
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,367 Posts
Thanks to whom ever suggested that maybe the neck was too long! I trimmed it down about 5/32" of an inch and man did it snug everything up. This put the neck about 1/16" below the hand bar clamp, creating a suck down when I put the cap on. It is good and tight now!

This pic is before I trimmed it, you can see the 1/8" gap.
View attachment 1962996

This pic is after I trimmed it.

View attachment 1962997

View attachment 1962998 View attachment 1962999
Nice work! For what its worth, what you are calling the neck is the top of the steerer tube. Some people call the stem the neck or goose neck(!) so that was one point of confusion. And “creating the suck down” is called preload. Good on ya for figuring it all out and use whatever terminology you want, just figured I’d share a few details to make communication easier in the future in case you’re interested.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice work! For what its worth, what you are calling the neck is the top of the steerer tube. Some people call the stem the neck or goose neck(!) so that was one point of confusion. And “creating the suck down” is called preload. Good on ya for figuring it all out and use whatever terminology you want, just figured I’d share a few details to make communication easier in the future in case you’re interested.

Thanks.... I'm a total newb at bike terminology, I watch the videos and the words they use to describe everything dont stick in my head at all. Heck, I googled some of it yesterday and I still don't remember what it's all called. 😅
 

· Out spokin'
In cog? Neato!
Joined
·
19,651 Posts
Thanks.... I'm a total newb at bike terminology, I watch the videos and the words they use to describe everything dont stick in my head at all. Heck, I googled some of it yesterday and I still don't remember what it's all called. 😅
Need more obsession! :)
=sParty
 

· Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
You're doing a great job. But please stop saying neck. It's not a neck and never was a neck. The term comes from 'gooseneck' which is a type of stem that came on bikes decades ago. Every week some tweaker comes in my shop and asks for a neck for his BMX like it's a thing... makes me cringe. lol
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top