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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been waiting for this for about 4 months.

I nearly bought the Mk2 in early May but didn't care for the orange colour. Then I heard that MK3 was to be released at end May so I waited. When it finally debuted, I instantly liked the super "dave" raw as I had seen someone on this forum strip their EG raw and instantly liked it. But ... once I had pulled the trigger on it, I had regrets, thinking that I should have ordered it in black as I think maybe it won't look good with the forks I have in mind. But alas, like an illegitimate child, she arrived at my doorstep not caring how I felt about her. Initially, when I first sighted her, my feeling was that I had made a mistake. The raw is not smooth as some have portrayed but rather a finely brushed aluminum finish that is difficult to detect in photos. In fact, "raw" is a very accurate description. There is a degree of unfinished business about her and this "look" gives the impression that it was rushed into production.

But in the end, the look has been growing on me. It actually gives the impression of a secret military prototype undergoing field trials and I think it's quite cool.

Without further adieu:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First impressions:
Build quality: generally very good. It certainly looks that way. The proof will be in the ease of build. I am assured by Brant that the bottom bracket shell does not require chasing nor does the headtube require facing.
The frame from all angles appears extremely robust. The underside of the chainstay looks like it belongs on a 125 motocross bike - more photos later.
The Cane Creek DB appears absolutely enormous. I was quite "shocked" by the size of it. It doesn't just appear to belong on a 125, I think maybe they have taken it off one! Actually the frame cannot handle anything bigger. There is maybe 1mm of clearance between the shock body and the seat stay/downtube linkage.
Speaking of build, this is my first ever full build and I welcome your input. Coming is a 2012 Bos Deville fork with a 1.125 steer tube and a 1 deg slackset from On One. I have an XT 3 ring crankset that I want to take from my other bike and at this point my intention is towards replacing the 3rd ring with a bash guard. The chain tensioner will be a bionicon as it is light, cheap and i understand that it is effective.
More later ...
 

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Nice!
Waiting for more pictures and full specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How deep is the shoulder in the head tube for the headset? Also, close-up of the cc shock and the down tube clearence. Thanks.
Bottom cup depth 0.800 inches = 20.3mm
Top cup depth 0.437 inches = 11.1 mm

Clearance from centre of forward shock pivot to downtube 2.725 inches = 69.2 mm
Closest point of CCDB to downtube 0.930 inches = 23.6 mm

I will try to get the photo you want later. Card reader problems atm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fork: Bos Deville 160mm
Wheels: Hope Hoops Pro2 Evo MTB (Black Mavic 721)
Crank Brothers Split Skewers
Pedals: Shimano M530 MTB SPD Trail Pedals - Black
Hopetech EVO 4 brakes with 203mm disks front and rear.


Would anyone like to suggest a crankset? I want to run Shimano. I guess a 2 ring with a bash ring is the answer? Not sure if that impacts the crank decision (my first build and I am learning). I do a fair amount of uphill. Trying to keep costs under control so am interested in deals. Also .. shifters, front and rear mech?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Reverb

Can anyone provide some guidance for a Reverb seatpost for the Large EG? I am 6'-0" have a 34 inch inseam. I understand the choices are 380mm or 420mm post with 100 or 125 range of motion. Thanks,
 

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Can anyone provide some guidance for a Reverb seatpost for the Large EG? I am 6'-0" have a 34 inch inseam. I understand the choices are 380mm or 420mm post with 100 or 125 range of motion. Thanks,
Not a reverb fan but if its clearance you are concerned with..generally 125mm adjustable post-- requires ~8" +/-0.5" from top of saddle to max insertion point. The longer version shouldnt be a problem for you.
 

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Fork: Bos Deville 160mm
Wheels: Hope Hoops Pro2 Evo MTB (Black Mavic 721)
Crank Brothers Split Skewers
Pedals: Shimano M530 MTB SPD Trail Pedals - Black
Hopetech EVO 4 brakes with 203mm disks front and rear.

Would anyone like to suggest a crankset? I want to run Shimano. I guess a 2 ring with a bash ring is the answer? Not sure if that impacts the crank decision (my first build and I am learning). I do a fair amount of uphill. Trying to keep costs under control so am interested in deals. Also .. shifters, front and rear mech?
I have an SLX triple with a $20 FSA plastic bashguard. Works great, and I can sell the big ring or use it as a wind chime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
not a reverb fan but if its clearance you are concerned with..generally 125mm adjustable post-- requires ~8" +/-0.5" from top of saddle to max insertion point. The longer version shouldnt be a problem for you.
I'm actually not a fan either as I know they aren't the most reliable tools in the shed but i wanted a dropper post and this one I can get new for USD $200 delivered so I thought I would take a punt. I waffle about buying it and sometimes think that I should just buy a clamp like this:

Seat QR - Chromag Bikes

I may go down the man route yet. Thanks for your helpful advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Frame Oopsies

OK. Now for a couple of criticisms:

1. The Titus badge on my frame is cockeyed. Not a deal breaker in my mind - just sloppy factory assembly. After all, it is the focal point for the frame for anyone who is interested in the marque and it reflects negatively on Titus QC. The factory has gone to lengths to protect the badge with extra plastic cover. It should be on straight - nuf said. Photo shows seat tube(out of focus) aligned behind head tube.
 

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wow, really sexy look and feel to that super raw. man i'm jealous...

ah, crooked badge can be annoying but can easily remove by heat it lightly and and re glue ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
EG cable guide

The rearmost single cable support bracket on the RHS of the front triangle is mounted about 0.5 inch behind and in-line with the RH forward shock mounting bracket rendering a cable mounting in this position seemingly useless as the proximity of the shock mount would kink the cable. Likewise the front cable support is also mounted in-line but should be workable as it is about 2 inches from the same said bracket. It's position could be much improved by mounting it further inboard and/or rearward thereby providing a straight run for the cable. Brant confirms this is not a welder's error but the correct specified position. I have seen photos of this mount being used but i think that it is a design that could be easily improved to allow a straight run for the cable.
 

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