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mtbr remember
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, check this out, I'm sure you can appreciate, whether the regular hater of anything integrated, or long time supporter, either way, very trick in my book! Wish I could get a 24" frame with one. hint hint :p
looks to be similar to a Thomson or DMR headstock, etc., style collet clamp, but for your seatpost. and, for those hating on the Eastern/BlkMrkt/etc. integrated clamps, these ones you could easily replace if you stripped anything.
 

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that superstar might be the frame for my bmx build. that or fly or fit hawk. Hey BikeSATORI, did you recently start usin the bmx-forum? I just started a few weeks ago and I think I saw your username.
 

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mtbr remember
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
cummings said:
that superstar might be the frame for my bmx build. that or fly or fit hawk. Hey BikeSATORI, did you recently start usin the bmx-forum? I just started a few weeks ago and I think I saw your username.
yep, the new deal or light my fire would be on my list of frames to check out, but I've got no money for a new bmx with other projects on the hands... that or maybe a Macneil bibi...

and yeah, I've used the bmx forum... tried to ask some questions, and find out when new parts are hitting, and got nothing of value back. There are some cool pictures there, but other than that, I didn't get much info...

another:
 

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I could include this feature on a Nemesis Project frame .
The inventor on this nifty little gadget Strawberry cycle has sold them for years .
It jsut never made sense to me to include one on a mtb bike , they were intended for his uber nice Road bikes !!
 

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Evil4bc said:
I emailed Andy Newlands last night and now hove some of these comming my way .
I'll possibly build up a new Deathmobile for myself with the intigrated seatcoller to try it out :thumbsup:
You already have a steetfighter and a SA for yourself, leave some for others man, that's not right! :thumbsup:

Better yet, send it my way, that way I'll have a SA and a DM!
 

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Evil4bc said:
I emailed Andy Newlands last night and now hove some of these comming my way .
I'll possibly build up a new Deathmobile for myself with the intigrated seatcoller to try it out :thumbsup:
I'll test it for ya Brad. :p

I need a bike that actually works :lol:

Anyway, this is a really cool idea and I really like the idea of this kind of seat collar.
 

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Snaky .... All I'm going to say is ownership has it's privlages :rolleyes:
But seriously I dont have a new DM built up for myself and I have been wanting to build up a really dirty/light street bike that I can jump bums with :D

I'm thinking 24" DM with a all black I9 front wheel and rear profile Ti mini cassette .
I still cant decide on a new ano color to go with so it might be all black or "murdered out " as they say :skep:
 

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Evil4bc said:
Snaky .... All I'm going to say is ownership has it's privlages :rolleyes:
But seriously I dont have a new DM built up for myself and I have been wanting to build up a really dirty/light street bike that I can jump bums with :D

I'm thinking 24" DM with a all black I9 front wheel and rear profile Ti mini cassette .
I still cant decide on a new ano color to go with so it might be all black or "murdered out " as they say :skep:
I'll help you with the colour scheme if you wish haha!.

If you want to build a new bike i may have something for you.
 

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mtbr remember
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Evil4bc said:
I emailed Andy Newlands last night and now hove some of these comming my way .
I'll possibly build up a new Deathmobile for myself with the intigrated seatcoller to try it out :thumbsup:
mmm, DROOL... :eekster: that's what I'm talkin' bout. Brad, you read my mind.
 

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BikeSATORI said:
mmm, DROOL... :eekster: that's what I'm talkin' bout. Brad, you read my mind.
YEs there pretty afordable !
This could end up being a new custom option on all our frames for under + $30-$50 to the end retail price of the bike . I want to double check the fit and how they weld into the frame and how much time this will add to the build process !
 

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mtbr remember
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Evil4bc said:
YEs there pretty afordable !
This could end up being a new custom option on all our frames for under + $30-$50 to the end retail price of the bike . I want to double check the fit and how they weld into the frame and how much time this will add to the build process !
damnit Brad... you're makin' me count my change wondering if I could ever afford a DM... maybe one day... we'll see how things go this season.

but, while I'm at it with ideas, how about some internal cable routing as well!


Man, I guess I'm just obsessed at the moment with these little Superstar frames, I dig the pegless dropouts with the integrated tensioner as well, they look so skinny, but are SO FAT. How the stays are angled onto the drop plate, then drilled behind... Would look even better with the little "Nemesis" stamped section around the clamping area!! :thumbsup: oh, may as well mention, you should shorten the DM stays to where the Molly and Fallguys are at as well. Or are they already? man, I forgot the DM dimensions....

 

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BikeSATORI said:
damnit Brad... you're makin' me count my change wondering if I could ever afford a DM... maybe one day... we'll see how things go this season.
I'm going to get you on one of my bikes sooner or later :D

Ahhhhhh internal cable routing , I have been avoiding this like the plauge .... so hard to set up right :mad:

The rear ends on the 24" DM's are now 15.25 slammed , due to the seat angle we really cant make the rear ends any shorter , but the slack seat angle put's your ass over the rear wheel more than the union or a tonic designs do so with a longer rear end our bikes will still be easier to manual and have more bunnyhop POP when you really need it :thumbsup:
 

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Evil4bc said:
I'm going to get you on one of my bikes sooner or later :D

Ahhhhhh internal cable routing , I have been avoiding this like the plauge .... so hard to set up right :mad:

The rear ends on the 24" DM's are now 15.25 slammed , due to the seat angle we really cant make the rear ends any shorter , but the slack seat angle put's your ass over the rear wheel more than the union or a tonic designs do so with a longer rear end our bikes will still be easier to manual and have more bunnyhop POP when you really need it :thumbsup:
Wish I could give that a try.

BTW those are some sexy bikes you posted up Satori.
 

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Evil4bc said:
The rear ends on the 24" DM's are now 15.25 slammed , due to the seat angle we really cant make the rear ends any shorter , but the slack seat angle put's your ass over the rear wheel more than the union or a tonic designs do so with a longer rear end our bikes will still be easier to manual and have more bunnyhop POP when you really need it :thumbsup:
First: I really like the Nemesis frames! BUT, I don't understand what you mean by this? Do you really bunny hop and manual sitting down???? :confused: How does seat angle make a big difference? :skep:
I think Union and Tonic and Geekhouse use yokes to get short chainstays.

Not trying to start a fight. I really do like your frames! :thumbsup: Just wonderin'?

Those Superstar fames are sick looking!! Love the clamp. :cool:
 

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No problem .. good honest question

I'll try to explain this as best as possible , bike angles arnt as black and white as most marketing makes them out to be .
There are many variables such as axle to crown height , HA , B/B drop that can effect the way similar angles can make a bike completely different .

You are correct that you dont manuel sitting down , but you need to look beyond riding style and more toward how your body weight is positioned on the bicycle frame and how the angles of the frame distribute your weight over the two wheels .

The seat angle dictates were you body weight is positioned over the rear wheel and were the rear triangle is measured from .

Then you have B/B height of ground in relation to rear axle drop and this angle dictates how much leverage your frame can develop toward the rear axle .

Now both top tube leangh and head angle along with handle bar posistion are one of the biggest variables in this situation also .
Which give a better levrage point , short toptube with slack HA or longer Toptube with steeper HA ... these again are vaiables that differ per frame manufactor .

This is were axle to crown height come in to play , some bikes have measured axle to crowns as high as 520mm and some as low as 450mm .
Some builders will make their bikes with absurdly high axle to corwns and extreamly slack HA's only to raise the rear alxe drop up to 19mm + so when a 450mm fork is put ont he bike the HA will effectlvly be back down to 71 :rolleyes:

A bike with a shorter rear end with effectively almost 0.0 B/B drop and a steep seat angle 71+ will feel small but also be harder to get off the ground due to the B/b height relative to the axle to crown and the HA . Effectively making your body weight ride more toward the center of your front triangle keeping your body weight centered .

Our frame have a slightly longer rear end with the slacker seat-tube , effectively putting more of your body mass over the rear triangle , this mated with a steeper HA keep the bike frame stable .
The longer chain-stays give you more leverage and the B/B drop gives you a better starting leverage point .

IE: picture your chain-stay as a lever (chain-stay ) , now basic physics tell us that a shorter lever with pivot point ( B/B ) closer to the actuation point will make it hard to move said lever .
IE: bunnyhopping motion

Now picture the same lever slightly longer , with a hight pivot point and longer actuation ratio , this lever ill be easier to move .

It all comes down to basic physics , I hope this sheds some light on your question .
This is were minor differences in frame design and angles can make the biggest differences .

Bike Gorilla said:
First: I really like the Nemesis frames! BUT, I don't understand what you mean by this? Do you really bunny hop and manual sitting down???? :confused: How does seat angle make a big difference? :skep:
I think Union and Tonic and Geekhouse use yokes to get short chainstays.

Not trying to start a fight. I really do like your frames! :thumbsup: Just wonderin'?

Those Superstar fames are sick looking!! Love the clamp. :cool:
 

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Evil4bc said:
No problem .. good honest question

I'll try to explain this as best as possible , bike angles arnt as black and white as most marketing makes them out to be .
There are many variables such as axle to crown height , HA , B/B drop that can effect the way similar angles can make a bike completely different .

You are correct that you dont manuel sitting down , but you need to look beyond riding style and more toward how your body weight is positioned on the bicycle frame and how the angles of the frame distribute your weight over the two wheels .

The seat angle dictates were you body weight is positioned over the rear wheel and were the rear triangle is measured from .

Then you have B/B height of ground in relation to rear axle drop and this angle dictates how much leverage your frame can develop toward the rear axle .

Now both top tube leangh and head angle along with handle bar posistion are one of the biggest variables in this situation also .
Which give a better levrage point , short toptube with slack HA or longer Toptube with steeper HA ... these again are vaiables that differ per frame manufactor .

This is were axle to crown height come in to play , some bikes have measured axle to crowns as high as 520mm and some as low as 450mm .
Some builders will make their bikes with absurdly high axle to corwns and extreamly slack HA's only to raise the rear alxe drop up to 19mm + so when a 450mm fork is put ont he bike the HA will effectlvly be back down to 71 :rolleyes:

A bike with a shorter rear end with effectively almost 0.0 B/B drop and a steep seat angle 71+ will feel small but also be harder to get off the ground due to the B/b height relative to the axle to crown and the HA . Effectively making your body weight ride more toward the center of your front triangle keeping your body weight centered .

Our frame have a slightly longer rear end with the slacker seat-tube , effectively putting more of your body mass over the rear triangle , this mated with a steeper HA keep the bike frame stable .
The longer chain-stays give you more leverage and the B/B drop gives you a better starting leverage point .

IE: picture your chain-stay as a lever (chain-stay ) , now basic physics tell us that a shorter lever with pivot point ( B/B ) closer to the actuation point will make it hard to move said lever .
IE: bunnyhopping motion

Now picture the same lever slightly longer , with a hight pivot point and longer actuation ratio , this lever ill be easier to move .

It all comes down to basic physics , I hope this sheds some light on your question .
This is were minor differences in frame design and angles can make the biggest differences .
Heh, I learn something new every day. Thanks Brad!
 
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