[MSU_Grad_121]

Okay, here goes. I just got rid of my Kia Sportage (don't laugh, it was cheap and held up great considering how I beat on it), which had a Yakima Load Master roof rack system and all the trimmings. I picked up a 2006 Pontiac G6 sedan with the ginormous fold-up sunroof deal. The problem is that Yakima doesn't make a roof rack system for the G6, the rear bumper is too low to mount a hitch on (besides, it's a lease) and I'd rather not hook one of those trunk-mount racks on it as I'm pretty sure either the contact points on the rack or the bike itself will scratch the hell outta my paint (again, it's a lease, so I gotta think about this kinda thing).

So, long post longer, I find out Thule makes a roof rack system, but they offer 2 options: a Rapid Aero and Aero Foot Pack. Has anyone had any experience with these? What's the difference? How easy are they to remove/replace (so I can use that aforementioned sun roof)? Any other info on these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton! :thumbsup:

Ross

 

[Udrija]

you can use a trunk mount without scratching the paint by putting all of the clips inside of the trunk which helps deter thiefs. I use the saris bones trunk mount on my grand prix no problems or scratching. I keep it on my car all of the time I dont take it on and off

 

[MSU_Grad_121]

See, now the way it's been explained to me (by more than one knowledgeable person in the MTB community) is that it's the trunk rack's contact points or "feet" that will scratch the paint, because they gather dust and crud and move around slightly as you drive (and with a black car, that's gonna be REALLY noticable). That, coupled with the fact that I'm pretty sure my rear bumper sticks out too far to let the bike(s) hang freely without contacting the bumper, kinda makes me leery of those kinda racks. Who knows, tho, might have to check them out anyway...Thanks!

Ross

 

[29Colossus]

If it was me, I would trade the car for something a little more biker friendly.

But that is just me. I buy my cars with my bikes being the first order of business and concern.

 

[MSU_Grad_121]

Well, unfortunately, I'm in a 2-year lease, and I'm only 29 days into it, so that's not gonna be much of an option. The problem is the fact that I talked to one guy at my LBS (i dunno WHAT his problem was, but he don't work there no more) who said "SURE! Yakima makes racks for EVERY car! No problem!"

Last time I just take something at face value and don't do my research. :madman:

Ross

 

[Udrija]

try this website its saris': http://www.sarisproducts.com/fit/fitoverview.asp

 

[dogonfr]

This is what you need!! :thumbsup:

 

[dogonfr]

Tule or Saris should have something. Most of the high end rack makers have a fit catalog or give them a call, alot of times talking to a person is most effective. Sorry im not much help on this one. :sad::sad:

http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/fg_vehicle.asp

http://www.saris.com/fit/fitoverview.asp

 

[unclenorm]

So, long post longer, I find out Thule makes a roof rack system, but they offer 2 options: a Rapid Aero and Aero Foot Pack. Has anyone had any experience with these? What's the difference? How easy are they to remove/replace (so I can use that aforementioned sun roof)?

Hi there,

I use the thule roof bar system and I believe I have what you refer to as the rapid aero foot pack.
Basically the end of the roof bar (I think the bars are the aero part, the profiled aluminium version as opposed to the square profiled steel option) integrate with the foot - the end pulls out an inch or so and you use this to tighten or loosen the foot (by turning clockwise or anti clockwise respectively). Very easy and very quick to install / remove after the intial setting up - the initial set up is pretty easy too.

The foot itself sits on the roof edge with a rubber foot pad (the rubber pad is quite substantial and won't damage the vehicle at all.

The foot tightens against the roof using a wide hook like part (coated in rubber too) that wraps under the roof edge. Its this hook like part that tightens toward the foot pad when you turn the end of the roof bar piece.

Once the bars are tight you just pop the roof bar end piece back in toward the roof bar where you can then use the lock assembly to secure the bars. i.e. with the end locked you (or anyone else) cannot pull the end piece and loosen the foot piece.

I find them great and much easier that the trunk mounted thule bike carrier that I had previously. The bars can be used to carry more than just the bike etc.

Hope this helps; apologies for the rather non technical reference to everything!

I bought mine (in the UK) from www.roofbox.co.uk

If you go to their website and follow the links to roof bars>thule you'll get a short narrative on the different types - the one I described above is for the 'without rain gutters' roof system.

 

[MSU_Grad_121]

Sorry im not much help on this one. :sad::sad:

Aw Dog, you're lettin me down here! Believe me, I wish I could get a hitch or something, but it sounds like unclenorm answered the questions I had about this thing. Looks like I'm gonna be converting from Yakima to Thule. Mores the pity.

In the meantime, I'm gonna do some road riding (against doc's orders, no less). I'll let you guys know how it turns out!

Thanks everyone!

Ross

 

[dogonfr]

Aw Dog, you're lettin me down here! Believe me, I wish I could get a hitch or something, but it sounds like unclenorm answered the questions I had about this thing. Looks like I'm gonna be converting from Yakima to Thule. Mores the pity.

In the meantime, I'm gonna do some road riding (against doc's orders, no less). I'll let you guys know how it turns out!

Thanks everyone!

Ross

I found links after i posted :drumroll:

dont do any grinding, smooth round circles & use the gears so you dont stress.

 

[kevin6s]

No guarantee that there won't be any marks on the trunk but you can definately minimize any that may pop up. Essentially you want to prep and maintain the paint surface of the trunk and all its mounts. The best way is before installation to totally clean the surface. If you want to do it right, use a clay bar clean the surface then use rubbing alcohol. These two methods will remove "everything" from the surface, including your wax giving you a "blank canvas" of sorts. When the surface is completely clean/dry you have apply some layers of wax. Use a synthetic wax as a carnauba wax will wear off quicker. The wax will provide a layer of protection between the car and the trunk rack. Definately repeat these steps every few months (depending on your climate, products used, etc.) and your paint should be well protected.

 

[MSU_Grad_121]

I found links after i posted :drumroll:

dont do any grinding, smooth round circles & use the gears so you dont stress.

Well, it's amazing how fast your (or is it just my) endurance drops off when you're not able to use one of your legs for 10 weeks. Rode 12 miles in about 40 minutes (ugh), and then topped it off my splitting some wood at a friends house (double ugh). EVERYTHING hurts... But at least I got out there for a while.

Thanks, man.

Ross

 

[Cruzer75]

The diffrence between the Thule Rapid Areo and the Areo foot pack is the type of bar. The Rapid areo bar is an aluminum bar, the Areo foot pack is what you would use with the standard thule square bar.

SS

 

[MSU_Grad_121]

The diffrence between the Thule Rapid Areo and the Areo foot pack is the type of bar. The Rapid areo bar is an aluminum bar, the Areo foot pack is what you would use with the standard thule square bar.

SS

Is the Rapid Aero bar like more aerodynamically shaped or something? I can only imagine the howl a square bar is gonna make at 70 on the highway...

Ross

 

[chono123]

This is what you need!! :thumbsup:

i have seen ur rack many times. i have something like it but no locking mech on it. what kind u have and what u pay for it. i might get a better one once i get my truck next year. they work GREAT, super fast on and off.

thanx