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climb
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2,293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been using a set of XTR 952 cranks for over 9 years. First on a geared bike, but for the past 5 years strictly as a singlespeed setup. A few weeks ago, during a ride, the right crank arm came loose. I tightened it back on during the ride, but in my haste I messed up the splines on the inside of the crankarm.

I was pretty upset with myself, until I pulled of the left crankarm and noticed it had a hairline fracture. I guess these cranks lived a good life, now it's time for a change. Whirly, Middleburn, old XTR, new XTR? Here's what transpired.


















This choice may not may not resonate with everyone, but it's working well for me.
 

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Out spokin'
In cog? Neato!
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16,319 Posts
THAT'S what I'm talkin' about! Nice.

The only things I would have done differently are: used a shorter spindle, mounted the ring to the outside of the spider, cut the granny receptors off and used 195mm arms, all personal choices that don't amount to a hill of beans.

Good on ya, I say.

--Sparty
 

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Drinking the Slick_Juice
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1,809 Posts
NOOOOOOOOOOO!! didn't you hear anything we have said before , buy a 4 bolt surly ring and you will most definitely taco it.....maybe. you have the ring on the inside of the crank so that's a good start . how much did those cranks set you back? I also hope that you are using a brand new chain on that brand new drive train.

Sparty, i think if he were to move the chain ring to the outside it would cause the chain line to be off, that could well be fixed if the spindle were to be shorter as you said above.

sweet build regardless
 

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2,959 Posts
nuck_chorris said:
NOOOOOOOOOOO!! didn't you hear anything we have said before , buy a 4 bolt surly ring and you will most definitely taco it.....maybe. you have the ring on the inside of the crank so that's a good start . how much did those cranks set you back? I also hope that you are using a brand new chain on that brand new drive train.

Sparty, i think if he were to move the chain ring to the outside it would cause the chain line to be off, that could well be fixed if the spindle were to be shorter as you said above.

sweet build regardless
He suggested using a shorter spindle (bb axle) which would then allow the chain ring to be mounted to the outside of the spider. Thus the chain line would not be impacted.
 

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Is it just my eyes (or monitor) but does that chainline look a bit out anyway ? Looks to me like the chainring would be better on the outside of the spider (see the photo with no chain fitted).

It's probably just me :rolleyes:
 

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Needed Less ~ Did More
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1,012 Posts
Nice set up :) I used Sugino XD cranks and Surly ring on my old Monstercross bike with zero issues. If the chain line is spot on (as in measures, not squinting down it!) there will be little chance of taco'ing the ring.

Please trim the rear QR skewer...I had Salsa's onmy MC Ute and I still have the scar where I didn't trim mine!

TopTip: thread a M5 nyloc nut on the skewer and thread down past where you will cut it, trim and then as you unscrew it you will clean up the thread :thumbsup: Pop the proper end nut back on and ride!

SSP
 

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Drinking the Slick_Juice
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1,809 Posts
1SPD said:
He suggested using a shorter spindle (bb axle) which would then allow the chain ring to be mounted to the outside of the spider. Thus the chain line would not be impacted.
thats what i had just implied
 

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Singlespeedpunk said:
If the chain line is spot on (as in measures, not squinting down it!) there will be little chance of taco'ing the ring.
other than the fact that almost all frames have some rear triangle and bottom bracket flex and so the chainline is never really spot on while riding
 

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Retro Grouch
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2,091 Posts
nuck_chorris said:
Sparty, i think if he were to move the chain ring to the outside it would cause the chain line to be off, that could well be fixed if the spindle were to be shorter as you said above.
Nucky, another firm grasp of the obvious; here's your sign :p
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

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climb
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the comments. The chainline seems as spot-on as I can get with the parts I had. The surly hub and freewheel are said to be at 53.5mm, I measured the chainring at 55mm. Seems good to me. A little more information on the build. Cranks $55, BB $25, Ring $30. Freewheel, cheap ACS I had in the garage. Chain, cheap SRAM I had in the garage. Riding last night priceless.
Stevob said:
That's one huge freewheel.:eek: Steep hills?
Yep. And I'm planning at some good elevation. I'm not in tip-top shape, and the 22T was in much better condition (less wear) than the 20T I normally use.
nuck_chorris said:
well the most important part that i was trying to point out was that his ring will probably fail
I'll keep you updated on the durability test. I had a different surly ring (5-hole) that was bomb-proof. We'll see how this one holds up.
hatake said:
Oh those cranks remind me of old specialized strong arm (by Sugino), which flexed like a pair of leaf springs, literally. Can you feel any flex on those?
Seem to be working great. But I've only done 2 rides (~6 hours) on them. I don't notice any flex.
farrisw1 said:
Like the cranks, like the frame!
thanks!

 

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climb
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2,293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
nuck_chorris said:
NOOOOOOOOOOO!! didn't you hear anything we have said before , buy a 4 bolt surly ring and you will most definitely taco it.....maybe.
03/10/11--4 bolt surly ring taco'd.
I ran a 5 bolt surly ring for 4 years without a problem. 4 bolt--8 months, the teeth are showing some wear, but not close to being worn out.

Please point me to the proper replacement ring :thumbsup:
 
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