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New 50 year old here... first bike since I was in early teens.

1652 Views 23 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  eb1888
Hello all,

Sooooo retired (at least for now) a month ago at 50. 6' 265 lb former athlete (bodybuilding/power lifting/VARIOUS martial arts, all kinds of ball, etc). However, have sat on my ass last 5 years acquiring two over due knee replacements and arthritis everywhere. The other guys I worked with always tried to get me to take up trail riding with them. Well, after retiring, I ran out of excuses. One of the guys sold me one his three bikes. A 2015 Scott Aspect 27 speed (29'r).

The Scott is in great condition, but two of the front three rings (pokey things) has GOT to go! I find it so aggravating I'm not enjoying the bike. Rode bmx n freestyle in my youth up into my teens. Can anyone point me to a source for how to convert a SCOTT Aspect from 3x9 to 1x11 or 1x12 without breaking the bank? I don't even know what the parts are called much less what is compatible. Worked in aerospace manufacturing 30 years ago, and closed my automotive performance business 12 years ago so know my way around tools, but bikes were MUCH simpler then. I retired a little earlier than planned but not broke either. Prefer Shimano products but open to functional. Even all my bass reels are Shimano for a reason. Local bike shops say they'd be happy to help but cant get parts.

Also, saw a 50 plus forum. Headed there now...
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The cheapest way to do this, is to use a 1x9, 1x10, or 1x11 drivetrain. 12 speed is the current standard, but to change to that, you'd have to change the freehub (where the cassette/rear gear cluster mounts to the rear wheel), to one that is a different standard. Which means replacing the rear wheel most likely, which is probably way more money than you'd want to spend.

8, 9, 10, and 11 speed all use the same standard design for the freehub. So you should be able to take the cassette off, and slide a new one on, then just replace the shifter and derailleur to the one that matches it, and you're most of the way there.

Take a look at the Microshift Advent X drivetrain. Its close to the same gear range as most 11-12 speed drivetrains, but it is far cheaper, and lighter (less gears).

And, welcome to the sport :).
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Seen it. Thank you.

The cheapest way to do this, is to use a 1x9, 1x10, or 1x11 drivetrain. 12 speed is the current standard, but to change to that, you'd have to change the freehub (where the cassette/rear gear cluster mounts to the rear wheel), to one that is a different standard. Which means replacing the rear wheel most likely, which is probably way more money than you'd want to spend.

8, 9, 10, and 11 speed all use the same standard design for the freehub. So you should be able to take the cassette off, and slide a new one on, then just replace the shifter and derailleur to the one that matches it, and you're most of the way there.

Take a look at the Microshift Advent X drivetrain. Its close to the same gear range as most 11-12 speed drivetrains, but it is far cheaper, and lighter (less gears).

And, welcome to the sport :).
Thank you. I will take a look at the Microshift Advent X drivetrain.
The cheapest way to do this, is to use a 1x9, 1x10, or 1x11 drivetrain. 12 speed is the current standard, but to change to that, you'd have to change the freehub (where the cassette/rear gear cluster mounts to the rear wheel), to one that is a different standard. Which means replacing the rear wheel most likely, which is probably way more money than you'd want to spend.

8, 9, 10, and 11 speed all use the same standard design for the freehub. So you should be able to take the cassette off, and slide a new one on, then just replace the shifter and derailleur to the one that matches it, and you're most of the way there.

Take a look at the Microshift Advent X drivetrain. Its close to the same gear range as most 11-12 speed drivetrains, but it is far cheaper, and lighter (less gears).

And, welcome to the sport :).
Not only is that great advice, but I found some Microshift Advent X 9 spd cassettes and rear derailleurs in stock on QBP so it's possible to find them.
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Not only is that great advice, but I found some Microshift Advent X 9 spd cassettes and rear derailleurs in stock on QBP so it's possible to find them.
I got mine from universal cycles in October, which afaik uses the QBP inventory.

My new frame gets here this weekend, so I haven’t used it yet. But I’m hopeful.
Here’s all the parts you’ll need for a conversion…
  • Rear Cassette
  • Derailleur
  • Shifter
  • Chain
  • Narrow wide front chainring

Now depending on your crank arms, you may have to replace the crankset as well. As long as the current front rings are bolted on the crank, you can unbolt them and replace it.

Now what gear ratios? A 9 or 10 speed (generally speaking here) are going to have a largest rear cog around 40-42 teeth. Whereas a 11 speed largest rear cog will be 46ish teeth. Depending on where you live and how much climbing you do, either a 30 or 32 front chainring would be a good choice. On my 29er with a 12 speed I went from a 32 to a 30 tooth and I use a much wider range of the gears now. Whereas with the 32, I didn’t get into the higher gears much. My converted 1x10 I put a 30 tooth on as well. Because I don’t have as big of rear cog on that bike, the 30 tooth helps with climbs.

I’m far from an expert, but I hope that helps you a bit more.
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Zeus -- we must have photos of your bike.
Welcome to MTBR & back to cycling.
Now, photos please. ;)
=sParty
Here’s all the parts you’ll need for a conversion…
  • Rear Cassette
  • Derailleur
  • Shifter
  • Chain
  • Narrow wide front chainring

Now depending on your crank arms, you may have to replace the crankset as well. As long as the current front rings are bolted on the crank, you can unbolt them and replace it.

Now what gear ratios? A 9 or 10 speed (generally speaking here) are going to have a largest rear cog around 40-42 teeth. Whereas a 11 speed largest rear cog will be 46ish teeth. Depending on where you live and how much climbing you do, either a 30 or 32 front chainring would be a good choice. On my 29er with a 12 speed I went from a 32 to a 30 tooth and I use a much wider range of the gears now. Whereas with the 32, I didn’t get into the higher gears much. My converted 1x10 I put a 30 tooth on as well. Because I don’t have as big of rear cog on that bike, the 30 tooth helps with climbs.

I’m far from an expert, but I hope that helps you a bit more.
Thank you. It does! I live in a very hilly area with lots of good trails. Sounds like I will need a 30T front chainring with a 11-46T cassette?


Zeus -- we must have photos of your bike.
Welcome to MTBR & back to cycling.
Now, photos please. ;)
=sParty
Will work on that.
Have no clue why it doubled the pics... when I go to edit, it only shows them once.
Have no clue why it doubled the pics... when I go to edit, it only shows them once.
That bike is too clean, needs some dirt and grime. Enjoy getting back into it
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Thank you. It does! I live in a very hilly area with lots of good trails. Sounds like I will need a 30T front chainring with a 11-46T cassette?
That would be a good setup.

You'll also need two special tools to do this swap yourself. A cassette removal tool, and a chain whip.
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Looks great -- can hardly wait to see the transformation. (y)
=sParty
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Take a look at the Microshift Advent X drivetrain. Its close to the same gear range as most 11-12 speed drivetrains, but it is far cheaper, and lighter (less gears).
Thank you for this... watched a TON of youtube reviews on the Microshift Advent X drivetrain today and the only negative I could find was tooth wear on the cassette and the multiple individual rings in the cassette wearing out the ribs on the hub. However, one of the two who pointed out the toothwear had almost 800 miles on that cassette. I don't know if that is good or bad.
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Thank you for this... watched a TON of youtube reviews on the Microshift Advent X drivetrain today and the only negative I could find was tooth wear on the cassette and the multiple individual rings in the cassette wearing out the ribs on the hub. However, one of the two who pointed out the toothwear had almost 800 miles on that cassette. I don't know if that is good or bad.
Glad that option is looking appealing to you :).

The downsides that you're talking about, are ones that are common to pretty much all hyperglide cassettes (the name for the freehub driver that you have, which is common to all 8,9,10,11 speed designs). Specifically, the design allows individual cogs to be put onto an aluminum freehub body. And if you happen to be incredibly strong (or have a really soft freehub), the cassette cogs can notch the freehub body. The only way around that is to either have all the cogs on one carrier (how some 12 speed cassettes are designed), or you have a steel freehub, or something similar.

And the wear on the cassette... 800 miles could be good, or bad, depending on a bunch of stuff, so its hard to compare. 800 miles might be great if the user was a 250lb powerlifter who rides in the mud all the time, and never cleans his gear. But could be really really low if its a 100lb high school kid commuting on pavement, and taking care of their drivetrain. Typically premature wear can be prevented for the most part, by replacing chains before THOSE wear too much, and keeping things reasonably clean.

If the wear rate is something you care about, they do offer a steel cassette. Its just much heavier (I don't even think they list the weight). It would last quite a bit longer though.

That said, I have no idea on how the Microshift Advent X drivetrain cassettes compare to other cassettes in terms of their expected mileage. I'd imagine its probably not as high as some of the really high end stuff using harder materials. But then again, even the most expensive option they make for it is $55-65, while a SRAM XX1 can be what... $450? I personally am betting you'd get more mileage per dollar out of the Microshift stuff, as long as you're correctly maintaining it.

Good luck :).
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Glad that option is looking appealing to you :).

The downsides that you're talking about, are ones that are common to pretty much all hyperglide cassettes (the name for the freehub driver that you have, which is common to all 8,9,10,11 speed designs). Specifically, the design allows individual cogs to be put onto an aluminum freehub body. And if you happen to be incredibly strong (or have a really soft freehub), the cassette cogs can notch the freehub body. The only way around that is to either have all the cogs on one carrier (how some 12 speed cassettes are designed), or you have a steel freehub, or something similar.

And the wear on the cassette... 800 miles could be good, or bad, depending on a bunch of stuff, so its hard to compare. 800 miles might be great if the user was a 250lb powerlifter who rides in the mud all the time, and never cleans his gear. But could be really really low if its a 100lb high school kid commuting on pavement, and taking care of their drivetrain. Typically premature wear can be prevented for the most part, by replacing chains before THOSE wear too much, and keeping things reasonably clean.

If the wear rate is something you care about, they do offer a steel cassette. Its just much heavier (I don't even think they list the weight). It would last quite a bit longer though.

That said, I have no idea on how the Microshift Advent X drivetrain cassettes compare to other cassettes in terms of their expected mileage. I'd imagine its probably not as high as some of the really high end stuff using harder materials. But then again, even the most expensive option they make for it is $55-65, while a SRAM XX1 can be what... $450? I personally am betting you'd get more mileage per dollar out of the Microshift stuff, as long as you're correctly maintaining it.

Good luck :).
Nice... it was however their steel cassette that was having the failures both on the freehub AND the teeth. However, I don't see too many videos of people installing cassettes with torque wrenches (zero in videos). Matter of fact, I've yet to SEE a torque spec in any of my reading thus far. Much to my dismay, everyone just cranks it down (remember I have aerospace manufacturing background). I can easily see over torquing a steel cassette galling an aluminum freehub causing all kinds of issues. So that could be that. As for the tooth wear on the steel teeth, one of the youtubers put the teeth under magnification and you could see the steel actually being pushed and deformed over the point of the tooth. Was interesting. Once again though, if over torquing misaligns the seperate gears, I could see this causing such tooth wear.

Either way, I had already made up my mind I was giving them a go. As you point out, seems to still be a better bang for your buck.
Cassette lockring torque specs I've dealt with are
30-50nm - Shimano
40nm - SRAM
70nm - Hope
40nm - Microshift

Shimano Tech Documents

SRAM Service Archive

Microshift Cassette Installation Manual
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Cassette lockring torque specs I've dealt with are
30-50nm - Shimano
40nm - SRAM
40nm - Hope

Shimano Tech Documents

SRAM Service Archive
^^ this.

Most of the time, I've noticed that the cassette lockring has the torque specs printed right on it. The ones I can recall offhand have been 40nm as listed above.
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Geeze, the bike looks new! It still has its front derailleur chainring assembly/alignment sticker on the it. Get that bike dirty ASAP!
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