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bike geek
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Seeing how I can never leave any of my bikes alone for very long without tweaking them in some way or another, my latest energy has been focused on simplifying the drivetrain on my Waltworks. I didn't want just one gear, since I'm kind of over the SS thing, so I decided 2 or 3 gears would suffice. Initially, my idea was to run a double up front and a single cog in the back using a Paul's Melvin, but I ditched that after meeting Jeff Jones at Sea Otter and seeing his 2x4 drivetrain. Took an XTR medium cage RD, and the 15, 21, and 23 cogs from an old Ultegra cassette, and slid them onto my Bonty cassette SS hub. I tried adding a 4th cog, but that left no threads for the lockring, so 3 cogs it was. With a 34 ring up front, that means my primary gear will be 34/21, which is good for my area, then I'll have 34/23 if I need a little help on the steeper stuff, and 34/15 for cruising the flats/downhills. It's all controlled by an Ultegra barcon set in friction mode on a Paul's Thumbie.

<img src="https://gallery.mtbr.com/uploads/mtbr/236003/wwdrivetrain1r.JPG">
<img src="https://gallery.mtbr.com/uploads/mtbr/236003/wwdrivetrain2r.JPG">

Since I last posted pictures of this bike, I've switched to an H-Bar also. Having ridden a flat bar on my Dos Niner for the past couple months while my WW has been undergoing drivetrain surgery, I'm happy to be back on the H-Bar.

<img src="https://gallery.mtbr.com/uploads/mtbr/236003/wwfull1r.JPG">
<img src="https://gallery.mtbr.com/uploads/mtbr/236003/wwfull2r.JPG">

The plan is to take it out for a good test ride tomorrow to make sure it all stays tight. I've set the limit screws on the RD so the chain won't fall off into the frame, but I don't think I can get enough adjustment to keep the it from going off towards the spokes. Luckily there is enough space between the inner cog and the spokes that if I shift too far, I won't damage my spokes. Just gotta pay attention!!

Any questions, lemme know...
 

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drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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tamjam said:
The plan is to take it out for a good test ride tomorrow to make sure it all stays tight. I've set the limit screws on the RD so the chain won't fall off into the frame, but I don't think I can get enough adjustment to keep the it from going off towards the spokes.
$5.99 bro! ;)
 

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Sweet. I want to do something like that too. I reckon you'll need a front derailler or bashguard/jump stop combination to keep from throwing the chain off the chainring.
 

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tamjam said:
I've set the limit screws on the RD so the chain won't fall off into the frame, but I don't think I can get enough adjustment to keep the it from going off towards the spokes.
$0.50 :D I've done similar with 1x2 and an old XTR r/d. You can replace the limit screw with a longer screw to set the limit where it needs to be.
 

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cassette body width - DT SS vs. King SS hubs

the thought of a simple drivetrain has its bonuses combined w/ a zero dish rear wheel. Anyone know if these hubs share the same cassette body width? or if one is wider than the other?? could be a fun new project...

Cheers,

D
 

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Alta825 said:
cassette body width - DT SS vs. King SS hubs

the thought of a simple drivetrain has its bonuses combined w/ a zero dish rear wheel. Anyone know if these hubs share the same cassette body width? or if one is wider than the other?? could be a fun new project...

Cheers,
D
Or how about a reasonably priced alternative to either of them?
 

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Kill your... television
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tamjam said:
The plan is to take it out for a good test ride tomorrow to make sure it all stays tight. I've set the limit screws on the RD so the chain won't fall off into the frame, but I don't think I can get enough adjustment to keep the it from going off towards the spokes. Luckily there is enough space between the inner cog and the spokes that if I shift too far, I won't damage my spokes. Just gotta pay attention!!
Jeff runs a longer set screw to keep the chain from chewing up the spokes.
 

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Some Pointers

Like SSMike said replace the limit screw with a longer one. It won't do any harm to your Der., its just a standard machine screw that you will be able to get at a good hardware store. That ought to keep your rear der. in check.

For the front, looks like you already have a White Industries SS Chainring which will help keep the chain on due to a deeper tooth profile and no ramps. I would suggest an SS ring, non ramped and pinned ring, to anyone running a DT like this. The other thing that really helps is an outer guard to keep the chain from jumping off. I ussually opp for the old chainring with all the teeth ground off . Its not hard to do and its super cheap, that's why I never throw out worn parts, I guess. Well that and its tough throwing out a part you spend 50- on 3 months earlier.

Anyway, I think we are going to see a lot more of this 3-5 speed stuff in the near future. Most of us who love riding, I mean really love it, are sick of replacing expensive cassette's and chainrings. I know I am, its frustrating to go through them every few months, especially if you ride year round.

Think of it like this... All of those early Shimano DX mountain 6-Speed Drivetrains are still around. A ton of them are still running the same freewheel and chain. The stuff was overbuilt, but it has lasted. Now alot of manufacturers are building throw away parts responding to the consumer demand for lightweight "fast" componentry.

So find yourself some old thumbies, Suntour or Shimano, or go out and spend bank on the Paul's/Shimano setup and get working. On another note... I just picked up these pods from Moonhead Machine company from Wisconsin, in a town who's name I will never be able to pronounce. The machine work is beautiful. I have yet to get the drivetrain together, but that will happen in the next couple of weeks. Check out the pic and their site www.moonheadmachine.com
 

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bike geek
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Discussion Starter #11
slim_pickens said:
Sweet. I want to do something like that too. I reckon you'll need a front derailler or bashguard/jump stop combination to keep from throwing the chain off the chainring.
I am not expecting to be dropping the chain. Besides what JMKM pointed out, that I have an ENO crankset w/SS ring so can't add a bashguard, the XTR spring seems really stiff so hopefully it won't bounce around that much. The chain is pretty short since it's only wrapping around a 23t cog, not the 32 or 34 that most run on a 1x8 or 1x9 drivetrain. I may need an N-gear thingy to keep it from falling off to the inside though.

slim_pickens said:
Or how about a reasonably priced alternative to either of them?
Look for a Bonty wheelset from a Rig owner who's upgraded. I got mine from another board member new for $160 shipped to me. Maybe eventually I'll replace the rear hub with something sexier, but the disc-only Mustang rims are sweet!

ssmike said:
$0.50 :D I've done similar with 1x2 and an old XTR r/d. You can replace the limit screw with a longer screw to set the limit where it needs to be.
Ok, so this is the only thing I couldn't figure out. Rookie question: do I want the screw to be set all the way in, or all the way out? I tried it both ways with the stock limit screw, and neither way had any effect.
 

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drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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tamjam said:
Ok, so this is the only thing I couldn't figure out. Rookie question: do I want the screw to be set all the way in, or all the way out? I tried it both ways with the stock limit screw, and neither way had any effect.
In. It probably had no effect because it bottomed out. Get longer screw as someone suggested earlier.
 

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Revisiting the longer screw

Just remembered one thing about using the longer screw with the 952 type XTR derailleur. When I did this, I had to use a pretty long replacement screw for the lower limit setting (this was used on a single speed application at the time so your results may be better on the 3 speed). Anyway, by the time I screwed the lower limit screw to set the upper pulley under the cog, the screw was contacting the stop on the derailleur at a spot that was near the end of the tab. The end result is that after time, the limit stop tab on the derailleur got bunged up and the upper pulley ended up migrating in board too much to keep it under the cog. Look at where the limit screw hits the stop on the derailleur and make sure the contact spot is solid.
 

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Recovering couch patato
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$35, wow...

For cheap friction thumbies, check for Falcons. They attach to the bar with handlebar bell technolgy (srap), but the lever feel is actually quite good (I never owned thumbies, I'm in this game since the early STI days, '89). I'm going to use the Falcons for similar frankencassette setups. They actually come with inner cables and a bunch of housing pieces, great deal altogether.

On my 26/28" commuter, the 42x13t Ultegra - 16t DX - 21t Alu TA, is working out nicely. I do most of the pedaling on the DX cog, the 21 is for vicious winds, the 13 for cruising and tailwinds. I do have to get me a longer setscrew, I keep pushing the chain onto the 27t Alu I stuck next to it, as a sort of "guard", worked out very well. The moment the chain grabs the 27t, I get to emove the wheel before I can continue my way. The 42t Alivio front ring drops the chain sometimes, especially when shifting from the 16t DX to the 13t. A good guide of front is never wasted weight, I'm afraid.
 

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When someone orders a bunch of those hubs, please get one for me, so I don't pay the premium shipping to Europe? I'm dieing for a stiff 36h hub! Eternal thanks will come your way!
 

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Great looking bike

tamjam - BTW, that's a really nice looking bike. The color and the panel graphic are really sharp.
 

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bike geek
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Discussion Starter #19
Cloxxki said:
When someone orders a bunch of those hubs, please get one for me, so I don't pay the premium shipping to Europe? I'm dieing for a stiff 36h hub! Eternal thanks will come your way!
Clox...my mother in law is visiting from London. Would shipping to you from there be any cheaper, if she were to bring it back with her when she goes back in a couple weeks? I'm sure she wouldn't mind.
 

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Cool offer! But I bet it's about the same to ship from London to Holland as from the USA to Holland, USPS is really cool. I got an H-bar in, $21.10 , insured even, and that's a BIG package. I bet a compact package would be around $10 or so only. Totally worth it, IMO, the Euro/$ will take care of that.
Only if you're ordering through them as well!

You da man Tamjam! Let me know if you're actually going through ordering some for yourself. I have Paypal fired up.

Happy trails,

J

jgklok at kabelfoon dot nl
 
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