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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i picked up a 04 DJ-II for pretty cheap and thought, ok cool slap this on the front end and im done...well how wrong i was. this think is WAY to long of a travel fork for my 05 steelhead! the front end feels way to racked out. i measured the stanchions from the dust seal to the were they go into the crown and they were 6.125 inches, the fork came oem off a "big hit" series bike. it says on the marzocchi web site that this one is 130mm travel and can be adjusted to 110, which i think would be alot better, i would like to make it 80-100mm if possible.

so does anyone have any links or material that i can read that will tell me how to do this? i have never taken apart a oil shock before so i need some pic or guides for this. i very mechanicaly inclinde(rebuilt lost of engines and what not) but i need to know what to do and how to start.
thanks
 

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if it measures 6.125" and is oem off a big hit, it's the 150mm version. Nemesis Projects probably has a drop kit for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·




ok i took some pics to see if this might help

the first one is the stan. with the plunger rods by them and the second is the rods but a close up. now the Nemesis Projects stuff seems like is just a metal spacers that i could cut and make on my own and save $60 on.

i found this link on a forum that shows how to lower the travel on the fork
https://hcor.net/postlite25796-kvasir&amp.html;sid=29fe9cea5e47e47fa54b029a99cce325

whoever the style of plunger rods are diff and im a little lost as to what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
also im having a hard time trying to figure out how by putting a spacer in the bottom of the stan. for the fork that it will make the axle to crown length shorter? can anyone explain

so i have confermed that this is a 150mm djII fork, is this hopless trying to get the travel knocked down to 80mm i mean that is pretty much half the travel of the fork
 

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I am in the same situation as you with the exact same fork. I am not sure I need to go all the way down to 80mm but definetly it needs to be considerably shorter than what it is.
 

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I think, not sure, but I think that you use the spacer for an extension to the negative spring..
 

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Meh.
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You use it to space out the negative travel spring (the shorter one). This makes the fork top out earlier, so it won't extend back to "full travel." If you want to knock it down 50mm, use 50mm of spacers. BMX bottom bracket spacers dipped in the rubber stuff for recoating tool handles works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok i put a 70mm spacer in there and the fork is definitly lower now. however there are to slit problems.

1. because this fork is made for 150mm travel my pump rods are longer than normal and this means that the big yellow spring was sticking out by about 70mm(hmm amagine that). anyway i talk to marzocchi and they said to just leave the spring out and just run air pressure up to 50psi and you should be fine. well the fork is a little so soft now so im thinking either cut the spring or to try and just cram the spring and the cap back on. which one would be better?

2. when i lift up hard on the front end the fork "tops out" and make a poping noise. i know that this the the spacer contacting the pump rod and that this is normal but i would like to soften this up a bit. im told the you can use a heavier oil to slow the rebound down and make this not so bad. but what type do i use and is there anything else that i could do to make this better?
 

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If you cram the spring in, it's just like adding 70mm of preload. Might not be a bad thing if you like very stiff forks. It will be pretty difficult to shove it in. Cutting the spring isn't hard. Just be sure to measure right, leave a little extra protruding from the top of the crown (adds preload, and in case you make a mistake).

You could use a heavier oil, it would also add more compression. You can use rubber washers on each side of the spacer, or you can dip the entire spacer into the rubber stuff for tool handles.
 

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Merkyworks the Nemesis Projects stuff seems like is just a metal spacers that i could cut and make on my own and save $60 on. i found this link on a forum that shows how to lower the travel on the fork [URL said:
http://hcor.net/postlite25796-kvasir&amp.html;sid=29fe9cea5e47e47fa54b029a99cce325[/URL]

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Yea .... just metal :nono:

Our kit's are designed and now PROVEN to adapt your fork for urban riding .

KASVAR"s method as well as others explained on the net only add to the height of the cartrige stack , they do not improve damping or change damping rate of the fork .

You will end up with a fork with play , harsh topout noise and even worse damage the internals to a point where the fork is no longer rideable .

We have done the math and manufactored a kit that is approved and suggested by Marzocchi as well as being ridden by a few of their factory riders now as well .

Personally I have seen PVC spacer mods EXPLODE in someone's fork right in front of my interbike booth !!! as they were trying to explaine how they made there kit form PVC and how mine's just over priced metal !

I have been riding my ofrk for well over 1.5 years now with no problems AT ALL!

We have sold through more than 100 travel reduction kit's in the past year as well as tuning almost 30 forks this year alone . We have gotten very good reviews with very few problems installing the kit's at the customer level .

Thanks
Brad
Nemesis Project cycles
 

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Evil4bc said:
Yea .... just metal :nono:

Our kit's are designed and now PROVEN to adapt your fork for urban riding .

KASVAR"s method as well as others explained on the net only add to the height of the cartrige stack , they do not improve damping or change damping rate of the fork .

You will end up with a fork with play , harsh topout noise and even worse damage the internals to a point where the fork is no longer rideable .

We have done the math and manufactored a kit that is approved and suggested by Marzocchi as well as being ridden by a few of their factory riders now as well .

Personally I have seen PVC spacer mods EXPLODE in someone's fork right in front of my interbike booth !!! as they were trying to explaine how they made there kit form PVC and how mine's just over priced metal !

I have been riding my ofrk for well over 1.5 years now with no problems AT ALL!

We have sold through more than 100 travel reduction kit's in the past year as well as tuning almost 30 forks this year alone . We have gotten very good reviews with very few problems installing the kit's at the customer level .

Thanks
Brad
Nemesis Project cycles
ahh, your just trying to make a sale:skep:
 

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free rider said:
ahh, your just trying to make a sale:skep:
More trying to inform my customer base that our kit's are worth the money and arnt jsut over priced pieces of metal :D

Best of all they come with INSTRUCTIONS ... that for some reason ever 14yr old can figure out and make there fork feel as good as mine :thumbsup:

Did I also mention our kit's come with REAL Marzocchi small parts such as the extended negitive spring ! This makes the biggest differnce :eekster:
 

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Evil4bc said:
More trying to inform my customer base that our kit's are worth the money and arnt jsut over priced pieces of metal :D

Best of all they come with INSTRUCTIONS ... that for some reason ever 14yr old can figure out and make there fork feel as good as mine :thumbsup:

Did I also mention our kit's come with REAL Marzocchi small parts such as the extended negitive spring ! This makes the biggest differnce :eekster:
real marzocchi parts, damn im sick of the fake ones. and instructions...wow, im stoked

im just playin, you know i trust you and your silly little overpriced waste of metal kits:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok well i first tried useing sae 10w moto-shock oil with 50 psi, i also slowed the rebound as much as i could using the adjustment screw. it was not bad but im 210 and i can take the fork to its max travel. the toping out was not that bad like this.

then i tried putting in the positive springs, it was really easy to cram that thing in there, i thought it would be harder than that. ha....i tried it out and it is about the stiffness that i would like however the top out "pop" is very noticeable. so....

what will break if i leave it like this (with the spring in) and keep having it top out and pop like it is? would the pump rods just snap on me? or pull out from the legs?



[email protected] project
if i were to get the kit do you still hear that top out pop? i guess that your kit saves the pump rods for F'ing up?
 

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Merkyworks said:
ok well i first tried useing sae 10w moto-shock oil with 50 psi, i also slowed the rebound as much as i could using the adjustment screw. it was not bad but im 210 and i can take the fork to its max travel. the toping out was not that bad like this.

then i tried putting in the positive springs, it was really easy to cram that thing in there, i thought it would be harder than that. ha....i tried it out and it is about the stiffness that i would like however the top out "pop" is very noticeable. so....

what will break if i leave it like this (with the spring in) and keep having it top out and pop like it is? would the pump rods just snap on me? or pull out from the legs?

[email protected] project
if i were to get the kit do you still hear that top out pop? i guess that your kit saves the pump rods for F'ing up?
The top out pop your feel and hear is from the preload in the upper spring , and the lower negitive spring not being long enough to take up the extra movement .

You have 2 options , you could jsut run it like this for about a moth and break the plastic pumping rod , when this happens your fork will jsut sink into the travel , or if your spacer breaks it will POP up back to 150mm .

Our kit's will remove the harsh topout feel , with the extended negitive spring .
The spacer will help the inconsistant damping feel .
and the small hard anodized spring seat washer will help you tune the travel to your desired leangh .

Instructions help too , so there is no guessing , we pretty much have travel reduction on Zokes down to a science !:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so on a stock 110/130 DJ fork with no travel reduction do people still have toping out problems or is it that the oem negative spring is enough for it?

so if i use the same positive spring im still going to have reload because the pump rods will sit higher in relation to the stans. so the longer negative springs helps counter act this im guessing. is it the more you reduce travel the more stress you put on the shock?

so it would seem then that buying your kit is going to be my best bet, and i guess haveing 10w oil in it will only help make it smother, right?
 
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