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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
AtomLab TrailKing with Hope M4 brake.

Why do I need to remove a caliper bolt and rotate the caliper, just to remove the wheel? If I don't, the rotor will hit the caliper.

Anybody else have a setup like this? I've never had a bike that did this. I have a +20mm adapter to run a 183 rotor, but I don't see how that would affect anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't think anything would line up if the adapter was backwards, so I'm sure it's on correctly. Can't post pics because I'm at work. I guess I'll just deal with it. I'll try a 160mm rotor and see what happens.
 

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alexrex20 said:
I don't think anything would line up if the adapter was backwards, so I'm sure it's on correctly. Can't post pics because I'm at work. I guess I'll just deal with it. I'll try a 160mm rotor and see what happens.
hehe, well that's why I suggested it - It doesn't sound like anything lining up correctly ;)
 

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Are all the spacers/washers on your brake in the correct position. Would raising the caliper up a bit by moving them around a little bit help? Just a shot in the dark, without photos its the best I can do for you
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My caliper and frame are both IS mount, so the only shims I have are for lateral spacing over the rotor. The adapter is slotted so I'll just raise the caliper a bit. I think I can get it high enough to clear the rotor for wheel removal, but still have plenty of pad contact area. It just threw me for a loop when I tried to remove the rear wheel.
 

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alexrex20 said:
AtomLab TrailKing with Hope M4 brake.

Why do I need to remove a caliper bolt and rotate the caliper, just to remove the wheel? If I don't, the rotor will hit the caliper.

Anybody else have a setup like this? I've never had a bike that did this. I have a +20mm adapter to run a 183 rotor, but I don't see how that would affect anything.
Track tips (rear entry SS dropouts) on that frame. Totally normal, if a PITA, to need to loosen the caliper to remove the wheel with that design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok thanks for the input shiggy. i've just never personally encountered it. i only have one other frame with track ends, and it doesn't have this interference - but the rear triangle geometry is also markedly different.

i'm glad i have the adapter on there, so i can just loosen it instead of the caliper. it took forever to shim the damn caliper! maybe it's finally time to switch to a post-mount caliper? :D
 
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