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Need master help. Weight trim for hardtail

914 Views 16 Replies 11 Participants Last post by dinoadventures, Dec 25, 2008

FortOrdDirt

Discussion Starter · Dec 24, 2008

I know there are many threads like this, but please help me out here. I have a 25 approx lbs Ibex trophy pro hardtail and need to trim some weight before racing season and decided to come to the masters for help. After christmas I'm looking at getting a proper scale and parts

I'm looking at XRP wheels, but is there anything else? thanks
Specs:
Frame: Triple-Butted 6069 Aluminum (3.2 lbs)
Fork: Rock Shox Reba Race* 100mm Travel
w/ Remote Lockout, Motion Control & External Rebound
Shifters: Shimano XT Rapidfire Plus
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT
Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT Shadow (low profile version)
Crankset: TruVativ Stylo Team 3.3
Cassette: SRAM PG-980 (11-32T)
Chain: KMC Z9200
Brakes: Avid Juicy-7 Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Levers: Avid Juicy-7
Rims: Sun Equalizer EQ23 Rims
Hubs: Novatec 4/2 Sealed Bearing Hubs
Tires: WTB ExiWolf - 26" x 2.10 Folding
Headset: Cane Creek S-3
Handelbar: FSA XC-190 - 25mm rise x 630mm
Stem:: FSA XC-150XT
Seatpost: FSA SL-280-CW Carbon/Alloy
Saddle: WTB Devo Team
Pedals: Shimano M520 Cllipless

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

ss mouse

· #2 · Dec 24, 2008

hey, fortord! i've raced there,cccx is a fun series (i'm assuming by your name thats where you'll be racing).
you should include your personal weight, and riding style as well a budget. i would personally go for some mode of stan's wheelset over xrp and if cccx trails are your main playground you could go pretty light. they have fun courses out there,but some of the fastest pro's out there have been racing hardtails with rigid forks.

liam2051

· #3 · Dec 24, 2008

wheels obviously, then cassette, pedals, fork - upgrade to a sid, they would be the most beneficial

Hadouken*

· #4 · Dec 24, 2008

Forget the SID it feels like riding jello. Go with the Magura Durin Race SL, MUCH stiffer.

Hand/of/Midas

· #5 · Dec 24, 2008

Hadouken* said:
Forget the SID it feels like riding jello. Go with the Magura Durin Race SL, MUCH stiffer.

you are talking the OLD SID.
The new one is like some sort o Magic is holding my front wheel.

Thats Lagunitas speaking.

IAmtnbikr

· #6 · Dec 24, 2008

Wheelset/tires/tubes will be major weight loss items. Stem and seatpost can be considered. If you change the cassette then maybe a KMC X10SL chain too. A fair amount lighter and also able to be easily removed to clean if necessary. Lighter grips will be cheap and save a fair amount too. I gained security and had no real penalty weight-wise using Halo bolt-on skewers. Ti and aluminum bolts where possible help also. If you can find one that fits a lighter saddle also. In reality the sky's the limit when it comes to dropping weight. You need to determine a budget and terrain you'll ride to help guide your path to weight loss.

FortOrdDirt

Discussion Starter · #7 · Dec 24, 2008

Oh I'm sorry I was so general, I don't have a dream budget so sorta like the best bang for your buck to drop weight. Under $300 would be nice. I weigh 135 on good days w/ gear. Oh and that KMCx10sl chain worries me a little. My frined bought one at sea otter and it broke within a weak, then snapped again a month later. It is blingy and light though

jmartpr

· #8 · Dec 24, 2008

FortOrdDirt said:
I know there are many threads like this, but please help me out here. I have a 25 approx lbs Ibex trophy pro hardtail and need to trim some weight before racing season and decided to come to the masters for help. After christmas I'm looking at getting a proper scale and parts I'm looking at XRP wheels, but is there anything else? thanks
Specs:
Frame: Triple-Butted 6069 Aluminum (3.2 lbs)
Fork: Rock Shox Reba Race* 100mm Travel
w/ Remote Lockout, Motion Control & External Rebound
Shifters: Shimano XT Rapidfire Plus
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT
Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT Shadow (low profile version)
Crankset: TruVativ Stylo Team 3.3
Cassette: SRAM PG-980 (11-32T)
Chain: KMC Z9200
Brakes: Avid Juicy-7 Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Levers: Avid Juicy-7
Rims: Sun Equalizer EQ23 Rims
Hubs: Novatec 4/2 Sealed Bearing Hubs
Tires: WTB ExiWolf - 26" x 2.10 Folding
Headset: Cane Creek S-3
Handelbar: FSA XC-190 - 25mm rise x 630mm
Stem:: FSA XC-150XT
Seatpost: FSA SL-280-CW Carbon/Alloy
Saddle: WTB Devo Team
Pedals: Shimano M520 Cllipless

Like some people have mentioned, wheels and fork will give you the best bang for your buck. Under $300 that's going to be tough. I would do a KMC Chain X10SL, Foam grips, a lighter cassette (XTR), some bolt tuning, and Scrub rotors for the brakes. If you can extend that budget a little bit next thing (or maybe should be the first) is wheels...NoTubes have various options here. Maybe a KCNC seatpost and using a flat bar could help drop a little weight also.

FortOrdDirt

Discussion Starter · #9 · Dec 24, 2008

thanks for the help. Although most wheels are way above $300. I found a pair of xrp wheels that weigh an OK 1602 grams and only cost $269.

ss mouse

· #10 · Dec 24, 2008

taking in to consideration your budget, 135 lb weight and fort ord trails, i would go to a reputable lbs and get a custom wheelset built. hubs i would shoot for something basic but reliable like an slx, or older shimano lx; rims i would go for stans notubes ztr 355's i've had great luck on them, their lighter than mavic 717's plenty stiff at your weight, more than durable enough for your terrain and tubeless ready without rubber rimstrips. build with either dt swiss comp spokes 14/15 gauge (cheap and strong) or dt revs (light and a little spendier).brass nipples on the rear ,alloy on the front. your handbuilts will be lighter and stronger than the xrp's for not much extra money. save your old wheels for rainy days and trails where you push your technical limits.

Cheers!

· #11 · Dec 25, 2008

I would just save my money up and buy a whole brand new bike. Many shops still have 2008 models that aren't selling. Find one with X.O or XTR groupsets, decent wheels, light frame, light fork. By the time you switch out every single last part on your current bike, you would've spent way more money than buying a whole bike.

If you are keen on keeping your current frame. You have to set a goal. I want the final bike to weigh say 22 lbs (a 3 lbs drop) which is not bad. So then you plan you weight loss per dollars spent on a spread sheet.

Used light wheelsets, used forks etc will help you. But with only 300 bucks to spend that is tough.

FortOrdDirt

Discussion Starter · #12 · Dec 25, 2008

Okay I don't think I'm going to get a new bike, but lookingat small block 8s and Just throwing it out there, do you think if I rawed my frame it could drop like .1 lbs even?

amillmtb

· #13 · Dec 25, 2008

For tires, check out the Specialized Captain S-Works 2.0...Mine were 520g a piece. Specialized has been very good this year with the consistency of the weights of their tires. These will take about 250-300g off rotational weight, making you bike lighter and a quicker accelerator due to less rotational. I have paired mine with a set of Stan's Olympic 347's and have experienced a big change in the acceleration and cornering of my CDale Rush. The rims are either 75 or 85 depends on the weight, either the 347's or the heavier model that is from 355-365. With some nice solid hubs, you can have a wheelset for about or just over 300. Every once in a while Stan's Olympics come on ebay for pretty cheap, like $350. They are Olympic Rims, with Dirty Flea OEM hubs...pull offs from new bikes.

Hardtailforever

· #14 · Dec 25, 2008

FortOrdDirt said:
I found a pair of xrp wheels that weigh an OK 1602 grams and only cost $269.

Dude, don't waste money on a 1600g wheelset. Wait until you can afford something better (1450g or so) and in the meantime swap out your tires, maybe the crankset (should be able to find something light used, like an XTR or something). Also, don't waste time stripping the paint of your frame. It's still going to be over 3lbs when you're done.

Try some free or super cheap weight savers, like cutting the extra length off your seatpost and switching grips. Also, while your budget is small, keep in mind that you can sell your old parts for a little extra cash.

Honestly, though, that bikes isn't a super light bike, and there are opportunities to save just about everywhere. I would just replace whatever parts you can swap out cheaply as you find deals on them. Bars, posts, cranks, wheels, forks, drivetrain are all frequently available used or on sale. Just keep your eyes out.

dinoadventures

· #15 · Dec 25, 2008

FortOrdDirt said:
thanks for the help. Although most wheels are way above $300. I found a pair of xrp wheels that weigh an OK 1602 grams and only cost $269.

You can find lighter wheelsets for the money. I paid $250 for my ZTR Olympic 347's on WTB Laserdisc Lite's with DT Revo's and that weighs 1410g.

FortOrdDirt

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 25, 2008

dinoadventures said:
You can find lighter wheelsets for the money. I paid $250 for my ZTR Olympic 347's on WTB Laserdisc Lite's with DT Revo's and that weighs 1410g.

what a bargain, ebay?

dinoadventures

· #17 · Dec 25, 2008

local guy. wheels like that would go for 300-ish on ebay.

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

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