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finally after 3 years rigid bought Manitou Minute 29er 100mm Fork matched it to my Mary
so far first impression really really smooth and stiff problem is just too soft ,now the pressure is 175 psi should i increase pressure or is there another way to make less soft :confused: other then that feels much better then my 2008 talas 26er:thumbsup:.
p.s forgot the mention i am a Clyde weighing 103 kilo (227 lb) was and still going down
 

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No Clue Crew
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Something not right. WAY too much air. I'm not a clyde -- weighing about 195 with gear -- but I only run ~100psi in mine.
 

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Blatant said:
Something not right. WAY too much air. I'm not a clyde -- weighing about 195 with gear -- but I only run ~100psi in mine.
I weigh less than you and use 130psi (no platform).
 

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trail rat
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Oil level is likely too low; it is a common issue coming out of the factory. Have you checked it? Also the upgraded compression dampening helps tremendously, although they may be adding that now, depending on when your fork was made.
 

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i just got one of these also and was wondering if there is a tech manual somewhere for it? looked on the website but couldn't find anything.

how do you check the oil?

dave
 

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trail rat
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It is a long thread, but all the answers are here.

Product and Service manuals are here - http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=support

Basically pull the damper cartridge and measure from top to oil level. See the above thread for more info than you will ever need.
 

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davefj40 said:
i just got one of these also and was wondering if there is a tech manual somewhere for it? looked on the website but couldn't find anything.

how do you check the oil?

dave
Here you go. Scroll down to 2009 fork service manual. It has all the information you need.

Ronnie.
 

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slocaus said:
It is a long thread, but all the answers are here.

Product and Service manuals are here - http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=support

Basically pull the damper cartridge and measure from top to oil level. See the above thread for more info than you will ever need.
I hav tried to go through that thread of info but it is just too big meandering. Is somebody willing to create a concise tuning guide from it?
 

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slocaus said:
It is a long thread, but all the answers are here.

Product and Service manuals are here - http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=support

Basically pull the damper cartridge and measure from top to oil level. See the above thread for more info than you will ever need.
Well...the "manual" does give the recommended oil levels and how to measure it. It does nothing to show or explain how to open up the fork or what to expect when you dig into it. I removed the damping lever and immediately lost one of the detent balls and nearly the spring because I had no clue they were there. :madmax:
 

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trail rat
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shiggy said:
Well...the "manual" does give the recommended oil levels and how to measure it. It does nothing to show or explain how to open up the fork or what to expect when you dig into it. I removed the damping lever and immediately lost one of the detent balls and nearly the spring because I had no clue they were there. :madmax:
Service Manuals
http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=support&c=service-guides

2009 fork service manual.pdf
http://www.manitoumtb.com/manual_download.php?f=2009 fork service manual.pdf&t=Service Guides

Page 8, Item number 5
For forks with Absolute compression damping:
a. Unscrew the 2mm Allen screw that holds the adjuster knob to the assembly and remove the knob. There are two ball bearings sitting on top of springs underneath the adjuster cap. Place those aside. Using a 24mm socket unscrew the Absolute assembly from the crown. Pull the assembly out of the fork leg. Fig 2 (Note: there will be a small amount of oil that comes out of the inner leg, when the assembly is pulled from the crown)
http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=3667193&postcount=35

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=5544972&postcount=464

For tuning, open compression and rebound, set sag where you like, 15% to 25%, adjust rebound so the fork does not pogo or pack up, then use compression dampening as trail surface changes.

The psi for body weight has been all over the place in that thread. Manitou says use 50% body weight, would be 100 for me, I run 90psi, just a touch of rebound, 4 clicks fire road, 3 clicks most trail riding, 2 clicks when it gets chunky. (All from full open.)

Some are running 50% more air than recommended. Rebound is only half turn, and seems to have to be full open or full closed to satisfy most riders. I have about 2 knurls of the nob from full open.
 

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slocaus said:
Service Manuals
http://www.manitoumtb.com/index.php?page=support&c=service-guides

2009 fork service manual.pdf
http://www.manitoumtb.com/manual_download.php?f=2009 fork service manual.pdf&t=Service Guides

Page 8, Item number 5

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=3667193&postcount=35

http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=5544972&postcount=464

For tuning, open compression and rebound, set sag where you like, 15% to 25%, adjust rebound so the fork does not pogo or pack up, then use compression dampening as trail surface changes.

The psi for body weight has been all over the place in that thread. Manitou says use 50% body weight, would be 100 for me, I run 90psi, just a touch of rebound, 4 clicks fire road, 3 clicks most trail riding, 2 clicks when it gets chunky. (All from full open.)

Some are running 50% more air than recommended. Rebound is only half turn, and seems to have to be full open or full closed to satisfy most riders. I have about 2 knurls of the nob from full open.
Thanks for the help.

I missed the link for the service manuals vs the product manuals (is there REALLY a need to have them be separate?) Worse yet, the product manual says oil ht should be 100-110mm while the service manual states it is 95mm!

When removing the compression (Absolute) assembly you do not need to touch anything other than the adjuster knob and the compression unit? In my old Bombers the damper was attached to the top cap and the slider.

Also the OP an I are both using 100mm forks which have a pressure recco of 60% of body weight vs 50% for the 120mm version. I am using just a little more than that (+8-10%).

I do not use any compression/platform on the trail. Feels great at the pressure I am running (~20% sag). If I do have ANY platform turned on the stroke is harsh and it clunks like there are rocks hitting the down tube. I remember some talk about a Minute clunk but could not find the specifics of when/where/why and the fix.

Set the rebound at the midpoint.

Except for the clunk, which seems to be a non-issue for how I use it, the fork is performing very well for me. Has not bottomed hard, gets full travel, does not wallow.
 

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I have been thinking about getting a Minute. Will it work on my 08 raleigh XXIX? Its a rigid SS but i do wish i had a little more smoothness on fast rooty downhills.
 

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trail rat
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shiggy said:
When removing the compression (Absolute) assembly you do not need to touch anything other than the adjuster knob and the compression unit? In my old Bombers the damper was attached to the top cap and the slider.

Also the OP an I are both using 100mm forks which have a pressure recco of 60% of body weight vs 50% for the 120mm version. I am using just a little more than that (+8-10%).

Except for the clunk, which seems to be a non-issue for how I use it, the fork is performing very well for me. Has not bottomed hard, gets full travel, does not wallow.
Glad I could help.

No, the compression assembly is it. Some have had issues replacing it and use a strand of brake wire to keep the damper open on insertion, and /or using suction by extending fork (post link).

I have a 120 and missed recommended differences, you guys caught that. Sounds like it is working fine for you then. We are still not clear if the current production has the clear/white needle valve (vs black original) and conical washer that was the second gen fix kit. For anyone who has the clunk or tick when compression is engaged, you might want to check.
 

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One small piece of advice, if you plan on going in any further, remember that the rebound assembly screws INTO the fork leg and not out like most forks :madman: It's a dumb design to me, really dumb and has mine just sitting in a box till I can get hold of a new rebound shaft :madman:
 

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LyNx said:
One small piece of advice, if you plan on going in any further, remember that the rebound assembly screws INTO the fork leg and not out like most forks. It's a dumb design to me, really dumb and has mine just sitting in a box till I can get hold of a new rebound shaft
Yes, the service manual has that in bold and underlined
 

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Hi All,

Just started to use Minute 100mm with platform upgrade and it seams much better than 2007 Reba Race. However would like to make forks even more sensitive.
Now on I'm running around 45-50PSI and I'm little affrait to go below this level. Especially that read somewhere that if you go below certain presure you need to disasamble forks and check oil level.
Anu hints in this matter?
Oh! Forgot to ad. I'm 65kg taht stand for 143lbs.
Cheers!
I.
 

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Guess it helps if you reference back to the manual then :skep: which I did when I first disassembled the fork, but didn't after that - know of a couple people who've done this, so not just a one off.

shiggy said:
Yes, the service manual has that in bold and underlined
 

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I'm 210 + gear and usually run 150psi. In that, I get a full 100 or 100mm of travel on most rides. I do tend to take pretty technical sections at speed which I'm sure helps use up the travel.

My point is that if I tried to run 100psi like someone mentioned above, I'd be noticing the internals banging around on anything more than smooth XC. So you have to tune for your riding style, trail, terrain, etc.
 

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so what is the difference between the Absolute and the TPC adjustments? i have the TPC and i'm pretty sure it doesn't do anything that i can notice. they said a new Absolute assembly is coming out in a couple of weeks so that's what i'm waiting to get.

dave
 
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