Nothing like that. Worst it could have possibly been a branch or stick that was stuck in the ground. I've been riding this trail 2x per week for 4 years so this is certainly out of the ordinary, but it's not rocky and we don't have goatheads or anything like that out here.Punctures from what? Thorns and spines? Rock-gashes? It matters what, because no tire is really immune to the former, but there are casings that help immensely with the latter, in fact if you take a light-casing tire and ride it in a real rocky place hard, such as at a DH park, chances are good you might rip it open. The way to protect against thorns and spines is tubeless, it just never becomes an issue for a maintained tubeless system, stuff sticks in there, seals up, you never think about it. If you can't run tubeless, you could run slime, which is heavier and with more rolling resistance, but has similar similar properties, Then there are anti-puncture strips, but these tend to be the worst of everything, worse rolling resistance, allows thorns and spines in the sidewall still, etc. Lastly, if you are getting pinch flats, the proper way to fix it is use enough air pressure. It doesn't matter what system you are using (tubeless, tubes), pinch flats are the result of not enough air pressure and still happen to tubeless tires.
Good advice. Yes, the puncture was in between the tread blocks so part dumb luck, part not enough blocks.Punctures will always happen. That being said an Agarro (2.6 - weighs 950g) or Martello (2.35 weighs 950g) are both good options with more tread that I have never had puncture issues with. I haven't had issues with those (but I also have had very good luck with my Mezcals).
More tread on top will help protect the casing from a puncture.
Ya, there was plenty of sealant in there. It ended up everywhere when the bead popped off. I had tried the same thing as you - hole at the bottom during inflation hoping it would push more sealant into the hole faster, but the air just leaked out too fast.It really does matter what is causing the punctures.
But it also matters about your tubeless maintenance. IME, anything big enough that properly maintained sealant won't fix is big enough to be a more or less instant flat. I've had a few like this over the years. It's not quite blowout territory, but the tire audibly loses all its air, and I'm on the rim in short order. Once, I was able to get the sealant to seal the hole by positioning the hole at the bottom of the tire and reinflating the tire to push the sealant out the hole. But the other times it happened to me, that technique wasn't going to work. Just had to do with the shape of the puncture and whether or not rubber from the tire casing tore off.
Most tire manufacturers offer different casings, and stepping up a level in casing durability might be what you need, assuming you're checking your sealant on a regular basis to make sure it's still good and that isn't your problem.
Good points. Punctures I can live with. Punctures that cause crashes, not so much. So maybe heavier casing up front, not so much out back since it's the mid-corner flat that caused my crash (felt like the tire washed out, which essentially it did).Punctures happen. You can ride the same place for years and not get a puncture, then get a few in a row. All it takes is hitting the right rock, root, or other sharp object you haven't on another rider or at a bit faster speed, and boom, puncture.
If you are puncturing your tires frequently, run heavier tires. If it happens once or twice a year, you are running a strong enough casing. If it never happens, you are probably riding heavier casings than needed.
I disagree with this. If it never happens and you don't have any reason to ride a lighter casing (you are fine pedaling it, you like the performance of the tire, etc), why risk a puncture?If you are puncturing your tires frequently, run heavier tires. If it happens once or twice a year, you are running a strong enough casing. If it never happens, you are probably riding heavier casings than needed.
The easy answer there is to carry plugs to fill holes that are too big for sealant alone. They weigh almost nothing, and a good plug kit can seriously take seconds to perform a repair. I like Dynaplug kits.Ya, there was plenty of sealant in there. It ended up everywhere when the bead popped off. I had tried the same thing as you - hole at the bottom during inflation hoping it would push more sealant into the hole faster, but the air just leaked out too fast.
I'll check on the casing level.
You are more likely to puncture a rear tire, as more weight is on that tire. That is the reason that most run a heavier casing rear and lighter front. You have to pick your level of weight versus risk of a puncture, keeping in mind, that even with a DH tire, punctures can and do happen.Good points. Punctures I can live with. Punctures that cause crashes, not so much. So maybe heavier casing up front, not so much out back since it's the mid-corner flat that caused my crash (felt like the tire washed out, which essentially it did).
Hence my statement: "If it never happens, you are probably riding heavier casings than needed." I am not a weight weenie (my hard tail is probably about 30 pounds, my trail bike about 35, and DH over 40), but am not going to run 1200-1300 gram tires on my hardtail that is ridden for XC/trail to avoid the possibility of ever getting a puncture. That is a lot of extra weight to lug up and down the hills, not to mention making the bike feel very dead. Maybe if I were a stronger rider I would feel differently, but I need all the help I can get going up.I disagree with this. If it never happens and you don't have any reason to ride a lighter casing (you are fine pedaling it, you like the performance of the tire, etc), why risk a puncture?
If you are a racer and/or just like fucking with things the above does not apply. But for my normal trail rides I would prefer to ride a casing I am happy with that I basically never puncture.
Pretty much sums up how I feel about Bonty SEs versus XRs. I like them both for what they do, but expectations are different. Having just switched from one to the other (1000 grams to 750), I'd expect a flat in the next year of riding, but appreciate not lugging the extra weight on the constant ups and downs. Everything is a trade-off, but I'd look for at least 120 TPI.You are more likely to puncture a rear tire, as more weight is on that tire. That is the reason that most run a heavier casing rear and lighter front. You have to pick your level of weight versus risk of a puncture, keeping in mind, that even with a DH tire, punctures can and do happen.
Hence my statement: "If it never happens, you are probably riding heavier casings than needed." I am not a weight weenie (my hard tail is probably about 30 pounds, my trail bike about 35, and DH over 40), but am not going to run 1200-1300 gram tires on my hardtail that is ridden for XC/trail to avoid the possibility of ever getting a puncture. That is a lot of extra weight to lug up and down the hills, not to mention making the bike feel very dead. Maybe if I were a stronger rider I would feel differently, but I need all the help I can get going up.
