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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building up an old 26'er and fitted it with a 1x11 with 46T cassette and XT (M8000) rear derailleur.

The issue is that the arm where the cable is held by the bolt touches the cassette when in the smallest gears. I have the B-screw adjusted as far out as possible.

Do I need to add an extender? And if so, do I remove the bracket axle first?

Thanks!
Hans

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Ripmo
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Hey, I dont know the answer to your question, but I have a Wolf tooth goat link for sale, $10. Its been mounted, but never used. I just want someone to use it, rather than it sitting in parts box.
 

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Hard to tell from your 1 picture and description, but is a longer B-screw an option?

More/better pictures might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
View attachment 1274935 Hey, I dont know the answer to your question, but I have a Wolf tooth goat link for sale, $10. Its been mounted, but never used. I just want someone to use it, rather than it sitting in parts box.
Thanks, a ride buddy recommended that. i haven't seen pics of a derailleur with 3 axles (extender plus the direct mount adapter) so I'm a bit hesitant...

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hard to tell from your 1 picture and description, but is a longer B-screw an option?

More/better pictures might help.
What angle pic would be helpful?

Not sure about the longer B-screw, but maybe. The jockey wheel clearance is fine in all cogs.

The issue is that the derailleur arm where the cable attaches rotates into the cogs as it is shifted onto smaller cogs. It's almost like I need to rotate the derailleur position anticlockwise, which I think would happen if I remove the DM adapter (which comes on the M8000.).

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Thanks, a ride buddy recommended that. i haven't seen pics of a derailleur with 3 axles (extender plus the direct mount adapter) so I'm a bit hesitant...

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
You replace the b-link on your existing derailleur with that one. it's a little longer than the stock one.

But, you shouldn't need it for an M8000 derailleur on an 11-46 cassette. That derailleur will work natively with that cassette. Something is wrong with your setup, and I think it's illustrated by the fact that your b-screw is all the way out, which you shouldn't have to do.

A few things I see:
*A long cage derailleur is unnecessary for this cassette in a 1x11 arrangement. I have 2 bikes set up this way, and they both use med cage derailleurs. But, you can use a long cage derailleur. That shouldn't have any bearing on this issue.
*Are you sure chain length is correct? Pretty sure mine both have slightly longer chains, which allow the derailleur to tuck up a little more in this gear combo. It may be your long cage derailleur messing me up on this, though. And/or your b-screw adjustment.
*It's hard to see with the way your bike is angled in the pic, but on mine, the b-links angle downward a bit more than yours, which has the benefit of bringing the derailleur farther down and away from the cassette.

I think that your adjustments are off. I don't think you need to buy anything, but you can put a Goatlink11 on there if you want to. It reportedly improves shift quality a touch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You replace the b-link on your existing derailleur with that one. it's a little longer than the stock one.

But, you shouldn't need it for an M8000 derailleur on an 11-46 cassette. That derailleur will work natively with that cassette. Something is wrong with your setup, and I think it's illustrated by the fact that your b-screw is all the way out, which you shouldn't have to do.

A few things I see:
*A long cage derailleur is unnecessary for this cassette in a 1x11 arrangement. I have 2 bikes set up this way, and they both use med cage derailleurs. But, you can use a long cage derailleur. That shouldn't have any bearing on this issue.
*Are you sure chain length is correct? Pretty sure mine both have slightly longer chains, which allow the derailleur to tuck up a little more in this gear combo. It may be your long cage derailleur messing me up on this, though. And/or your b-screw adjustment.
*It's hard to see with the way your bike is angled in the pic, but on mine, the b-links angle downward a bit more than yours, which has the benefit of bringing the derailleur farther down and away from the cassette.

I think that your adjustments are off. I don't think you need to buy anything, but you can put a Goatlink11 on there if you want to. It reportedly improves shift quality a touch.
Thank you, Harold. I think the chain length is correct. I use the method park tools suggests in their video.

I will remove and reinstall. Maybe I have something wonky in the positioning. Another pic below.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you, Harold. I think the chain length is correct. I use the method park tools suggests in their video.

I will remove and reinstall. Maybe I have something wonky in the positioning. Another pic below.

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A couple more pics

I'm also going to check the hanger for positioning. The pic may be misleading, but it looks like the (new) hanger could be bent.


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yup, a bent hanger will do that for ya.

And yeah, that chain looks a bit tight. Did you check chain length with suspension compression by deflating the shock and cycling the suspension? You have to account for suspension movement when sizing a chain for a full suspension bike. I tend to use the "maximum chain length" method rather than the "minimum chain length" method for FS bikes, so I'll size my chains in the small cog. On a hardtail or road bike, the "minimum chain length" method works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I agree...hanger looks to be off. Hopefully that will solve it!
Yeah, I will do so this weekend and see it that helps. Not sure if it will give me the millimeters I need, bur we'll see.

Regarding the chain, I disconnected the shock when sizing (Park Tools instructions: over large cog+2 links). I don't think chain length/tension is contributing to this issue, in any case.

Thanks for the responses thus far! I'll report back.

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How can you tell that when he is not on the large gear?
Post #8 he is. But with that said, I've got several bikes and have replaced my share of chains over the 22yrs or so that I've been riding. There's more than one way to size chains, and the method I usually use tends to result in a touch more slack, but ensures that there's plenty for suspension movement.
 

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Regarding the chain, I disconnected the shock when sizing (Park Tools instructions: over large cog+2 links). I don't think chain length/tension is contributing to this issue, in any case.
I don't think it contributed either, but you sure have some straightening to do, get that chainline straight.

That 2+ links is not always a perfect fit, and with a the m8000 you would always error on the large side.

I have that same m8000 and on my full suspension the perfect size was +4 but im also running a 50t in the rear.

If your shifting is not spot on in all gears up and downshifting, then you will need the 11t goats link. With a 46t you should be fine as your B screw isn't that far out with that cog. Any more then that, and it should be required. I needed it on my 50t
 

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I have a 2002 Bianchi Grizzly that's been basically retired. Couldn't help myself and just upgraded it to XT M8000 derailleur, 11-46 cassette, and shifter. No issues that you mention here. Works perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yep, that's possible, when they tighten the axle bolt, many frames bend in and downwards.

Large crescent wrench, solves that
It's possible, although it was not bent when I hung it up in the garage about 10 years ago!

I think the camera angle doesn't help. I will be out of town till next week and will tear it apart then and get a better sense of what's going on.

Thanks again for the comments!
 
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