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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that MC-E's are a bit passe now :)) ), but here's mine. I've mainly been using it for a commute along unlit bike lanes. In mildly chilly weather (Grenoble, France) running at 2.4 A out of the hipflex, I see very slight warming after 20 minutes. A few details:
14.8 V 2200 and 4400 mAh Li batteries
hipflex driver
machined out of Al by a generous machinist from Sketchup drawings
home anodized
all four LEDS wired in parallel for each MC-E
three MC-E stars wired in series






mount is pretty improvised (Al quick release screwed into the back cap, which mates to a plastic handlebar mount), but rigid enough so far. Hoping to test it out on a real trail soon enough, but I think I need to engineer a helmet mount first.
 

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Welcome to MTBR and more importantly, the DIY Board.;) :D
Think I saw this over on CPF a bit back.
Very nice job on the light. MC-E still rocks. Love the WC bin. Wish XPGs were a bit colder in color personally.
Thanks for sharing the light. That's some top notch milling there................:thumbsup:
If your milling buddy is still feeling generous then maybe a second light for the helmet could be considered.
The Fraen reflectors or Iris on Cutter have much better throw and make tasty helmet lights.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys! I looked at the troutie MC-E optics thread and some of the other optics looked better than boom, but BIG. That Fraen would not work on the kind of triple I was trying to build, but might be just the thing for a double helmet light.

the lens is high quality polycarbonate of some kind.

they also have a 6 axis CNC mill at work, but that is off the scale verboten for me :(
 

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Hi Maxn, I like your light, cool putting the switch on the front. That is a nice tactle touch. I also like MCE's; 8W per MCE what's not to like. I have about finished my 2 MCE helmet light with Frean narrow reflectors. Nice spoty beam, looks nice haven't gotten to ride with it yet. I'm thinking maybe another twin MCE on the bars with medium Freans might be the ticket. For now anyways. Merry Christmas James
 

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OldMTBfreak said:
I have about finished my 2 MCE helmet light with Frean narrow reflectors. Merry Christmas James
Looking forward to seeing this light. Been thinking about doing a couple singles with the Fraen or maybe even a double. Will be good to see how you tackled the problem.

Merry Christmas One and All...............:D
 

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Well odtexas I sorta "borrowed" your design.;) I like a narrow beam on the helmet; the 2 Frean narrow reflectors are really narrow. I haven't ridden with it yet, but it has a nice pattern, very much like the Iris, as posted earlier. This light is in a piece of 3" X 1.5" rectangular aluminum tubing. Hipflex for a controller, led's are wired, each star is parallel and the 2 stars in series. Draws 18.9W ([email protected]) from the battery, supplies 17.7W to LED's. This equals 94% efficient. Using a 3s2p 2600mAH battery, run time is close to 3 hours. I'm pretty happy now. I can't wait for the next one. Electronic device Technology Electronics Electronic component Wire


Technology Electronic component Electronics Machine Engineering


Table Plastic Wire Electrical supply Desk
 

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Me too, I've been trying to work it out from the pics.
Is it a one piece design(apart from the black rings)or is it too sections, one inserted into each end of a tube.

However it's done I like it.
 

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Seems that you have a table saw handy as I do.
Have a feeling I am going to be ordering some 1.5 x 3 aluminum tubing in the near future and borrow your build idea....................
Good looking build there. Can't wait to see the beam shots and hear how it compares to a 3x MCE that you may or may not have laying around there.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nice build, OldMTBfreak!

MacGyver, Betty: it is a solid block of Al, drilled out on both sides. The second pic is the rear view, where you can see the hole at ~7 o'clock for the momentary switch and the central hole for wiring from the Hipflex to the MC-E stars (and from MC-E star #1 to #2 and #2 to #3). The anodization was done on the whole block. The first two pics are before anodization.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
do you have a recommendation for a small optic that isn't too floody? I bought the LM1 optics too, which will fit, but havent tried them yet -- worth trying? I agree that a tighter beam would be nice.

regarding a mill: FWIW, I designed it so that it should be mostly do-able with a drill press.
 

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Hi Maxn, I would try a LM1-RS. The sad fact seems to be this; the large dome of the MCE requires a large reflector or optic to collimate well. I haven't tried any of the LM1 optics. I have tried CMC-RS, CMC-SS, and CMC-D optics. All of the CMC's are too floody for my taste. The CMC-RS is the best of them (for helmet). All seem ok for a bar light. I suppose LM1's are similar. The Iris are very focused, very narrow and bright (very large optics), haven't got to ride with the 2 narrow Freans reflectors yet. The Freans look good just shining around the shop. The rain has gone through, and maybe some beamshots tonight. James
 

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The LM1s are just like the CMCs. LM1s are round while the CMCs are square. The CMC does throw out a little more flood due to the square corners at the top of the optics, but if that was sanded off it is essentially the same lens.
RS is what I usually run. The RS will out throw the booms, but still not a throw monster like James has built with the Iris and Fraens.
For small form factor the the RS is a good compromise. Some throw with lots of fill.. Very rideable.
 

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maxn said:
thanks guys! I looked at the troutie MC-E optics thread and some of the other optics looked better than boom, but BIG. That Fraen would not work on the kind of triple I was trying to build, but might be just the thing for a double helmet light.

the lens is high quality polycarbonate of some kind.

they also have a 6 axis CNC mill at work, but that is off the scale verboten for me :(
I think I understand now. It looks like you anodized the raw block of aluminum for the main body before machining. That's why the blue band is just between the two black rings. Is that right? The texture is from the original extrusion of the round bar stock. I like it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
4 MC-Es: sweet! Although I kind of prefer the boom shot above. No worries on thread hijack :)

I think I'll throw in an LM1 and see how it does. I guess I can always have a mix of boom and LM1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
sorry for my pictures and description: the Al bar stock was milled in its "naked" state. Once all holes were made, then I anodized the whole thing. So anything aluminum is anodized except for a small area in the back which was in contact with the electrode. I anodized all surfaces partially because I was worried about multiple solder joints breaking during riding, hitting the Al, and creating the mother of all shorts. There should be enough oxide deposited so that even if that does happen, the Al surface will not be conductive. Of course, if joint fail and wires touch that shouldn't, I will also be screwed, but I think the chances of any kind of break happening are low. I could not find info on the degree to which anodizing effects thermal conductivity, but I'm guessing it is a small percentage change.
 
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