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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Let’s start with the specs:

Frame:                 Santa Cruz Nomad MK2 Medium - Anodized Slate (2010)
Rear shock:          Fox DHX AIR 5 (2010)
Front shock/fork:   Fox 36 TALAS RC2 1.5" Tapered steerer (2010)
Handlebars:          Easton Monkeylite DH High rise (2010)
Stem:                  Thomson Elite X4 70mm Black
Headset:              Chris King 1.5” combination NoThreadset Tapered Red
Grips:                   LizardSkins North Shore LockOn RED
Saddle:                WTB Rocket V SLT Ti
Seatpost:             KS i950-R 5" adjustable SP with remote lever (2010)
Front brake:          Formula “THE ONE” MY10 with 220mm 2 piece red rotor (2010)
Rear brake:           Formula “THE ONE” MY10 with 180mm 2 piece red rotor (2010)
Crank:                  Shimano XTR FC-M970 Hollowtech II Crankset 175mm 44-32-22
Bashguard:           Gamut P20 Black
Chain:                  Shimano XTR CN-7701
Pedals:                 Superstar Components ULTRA Magnesium with Alloy/Steel pin combination
Derailleur Front:     Shimano XTR FD-M970
               Rear:     Shimano XTR Shadow Rear Derailleur RD-M972 GS (mid-cage)
Shifters F/R:         Shimano XTR SL-M970 RapidFire Plus
Housing/Cables:    Gore RideOn Sealed Low Friction Derailleur Cable Kit Black
Cassette:              Shimano XT CS-M770 11-34T
Rims F/R:             Mavic XM 819 UST Disc
Spokes F/R:          DT Swiss Super Comp 14/16/15g Black
Nipples F/R:          DT Swiss ProLock AlloyBlack
Hubs Front:           DT Swiss 240s oversize 110mm / 20mm
         Rear:           Chris King Rear ISO Disc Hub Black With DT Swiss RWS QR
Tire Rear:              Kenda Nevegal 26x2.1 DTC/UST
Tire Front:             Kenda Nevegal 26x2.35 DTC/UST

Total weight: 31 pounds

Purchased @ http://www.SpeedGoat.com

Here are some pics:
 

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Very very very nice. Which DT rear DWS is that, the ti or ?? I like the bike a lot. Wish mine were ano.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The adjustable seatpost

I installed the KS-i950R adjustable seatpost. It has 5” of travel, and for me it is just perfect!
Once you get used to it, you cannot go back to a standard seatpost. The remote lever replaces one of the grips lock-on rings, as you can see in the pictures, and makes a very comfortable and slick fit.

When tightening the SP handle on the grip, rather than on the handlebar only, it moves back
80%, so I installed a spring on the lever under the saddle, to help it retract right.
 

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Ooh, snazzy!!!! Nice build.
I can't wait for my Nomad to show up!

P.S. What are those little red, "ride on" tabs? They look like they are hanging off of strings, and I see at least two of them. One in the picture right above my post by the BB/crank, and another one near your rear derailleur.

Oh, and what's the velcro on the stem for?
 

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Also, how do you feel about the DHX 5 Air shock on this bike? I have heard some people complain that it blows through the middle of the travel. Have you found this to be the case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Some extras

As a pulse rate monitor & speedometer I use the Polar CS600X.
For the night riding in the woods, I use a helmet light and a Dinotte 600L-LI-4C which is attached
to the handlebar.

I upgraded some of the bearings to ceramic ones.
There are in the pedals (pair on each side) from Boca bearings, yellow seal series.
In the front hub there are ENDURO "ZERØ" HYBRIDS.
The bottom bracket was replaced with ENDURO "ZERØ" SERIES CERAMIC HYBRID in red.
I also got the ENDURO "ZERØ" CERAMIC HYBRID DERAILLEUR PULLEYS in red, but did not have
time to install it yet.

On the handlebar I installed the Straitline Tapered Bar Caps in red, they are great quality, keeping the
carbon safe when crashing and I love their looks.
I also changed some of the alloy pins on the pedals to stainless steel ones from Straitline
as well (love this company). They grip better and withstand encounters with rocks better.
I want to replace the brake levers of the formula as well, but they don’t have it available as of now.

I replaced all the shifter cables of the original XTR to Gore sealed ones, and love how smooth they are, and how smooth they remain over long time.

The Velcro on the stem has dual usage, it is for the lights battery at the bottom, and for the GPS on top.
They can live very well together when needed. Each of these can be attached without the Velcro, but
it makes it much better, stronger and easier to attach this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dt

gticlay said:
Very very very nice. Which DT rear DWS is that, the ti or ?? I like the bike a lot. Wish mine were ano.
The RWS is the regular one, I read that the TI is not recommended for suspension, as it may not withstand the pressure and snap.
Don't know how true it is, but I can not take the risk :D
I know that Salsa for example, specifically worn against using TI on full suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tabs

stingray4540 said:
Ooh, snazzy!!!! Nice build.
I can't wait for my Nomad to show up!

P.S. What are those little red, "ride on" tabs? They look like they are hanging off of strings, and I see at least two of them. One in the picture right above my post by the BB/crank, and another one near your rear derailleur.

Oh, and what's the Velcro on the stem for?
The red tabs simply come with the gore cables.

As for the Velcro, please read my extras post above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Shocks

benmtb44 said:
Also, how do you feel about the DHX 5 Air shock on this bike? I have heard some people complain that it blows through the middle of the travel. Have you found this to be the case?
I still don't have solid opinion about any of the shocks (rear or front).
I came from Intense 5.5 with RP23, and this one sure feels different, but
I'm not sure in what ways exactly yet.

The KS I got from someone who had the wrong diameter for his bike, and I wonder where he got it from...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hubs

If you’re wondering why I have a CK hub in the rear and DT in the front, then the reason
is that the combination of CK, FOX fork and a 2 piece rotor, either does not work at all,
or gets the rotor extremely close to the fork.

CK do their hubs according to the ISO specs, but they use the most extreme left and right (width)
that they can, and FOX use the most extreme right of the ISO specs for the post mount,
thus creating a problem when rotors that are not standard width, like hope 2 piece, or the one I was using,
either rub the hardware or get hair thin close to it.

DT and Hope give you a few more millimeters to play with, which is a lot in this case, and the difference
between safe riding and dangerously close.

As for the choice between DT and HOPE, well HOPE don’t make a dedicated hub for 20mm TA, and you use
the same one as with the QR, just change some kit to accommodate. Not sure if this is the reason, but
on the hope we got play between the hub and the axle, and I found in this forum it is not uncommon.

The DT on the other hand is a dedicated 20mm oversized version, does not have direct contact between the
axle and the bearings, like the hope, and the end result is very solid zero play.
 

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Really nice Nomad!

I like.
Nice job with the zip ties over the pivot bolt to hold the seatpost cable, genius.
Those red crimps, are they a standard crimp dipped in rubber or do they hold the cable without pinching it? My cables sometimes get a little frayed when I remove the crimps to get the derailleur off to clean the bearings/bushings out.
About the RWS, why would they not recommend the Ti for suspension? Seems like a hardtail would take more abuse there with no suspension to absorb bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mullet dew said:
Really nice Nomad!

I like.
Nice job with the zip ties over the pivot bolt to hold the seatpost cable, genius.
Those red crimps, are they a standard crimp dipped in rubber or do they hold the cable without pinching it? My cables sometimes get a little frayed when I remove the crimps to get the derailleur off to clean the bearings/bushings out.
About the RWS, why would they not recommend the Ti for suspension? Seems like a hardtail would take more abuse there with no suspension to absorb bumps.
The red crimps are just covers for the regular alloy crimps, they are not even crimps just rubber stretching over, and they come stock with the gore cables.

The best thing to handle cables is to use soldering iron on it. I do it for years when ever I need to remove a cable. I did it already on the seatpost remote cable, and will do the derailleur in due time. TIP: use some soldering paste BEFORE trying to put some tin on. Also no need to cover a lot, just the flat end of the tip, and it holds fine.

As for the RWS I guess it is the characteristics of the TI, it probably snaps earlier and is less flexible than stainless steel. Read the text here:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/mountain-bikes/product-components/2010-salsa-titanium-flip-offs-2380.458.1.html
https://www.salsacycles.com/skewers.html
 

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Sweet looking bike there Zonerider, I like the move by SC to the new headstem badge, much nicer than the old one. Have a couple coming my way to replace the "skinny SC man"!
 

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I think the Ti-issue is just with bikes that are flexy and don't have a welded up triangle like VPP or DW bikes do.
 

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Nice setup!

Question: why the QR lever on the seatpost if you have 5" of adjustable seat height at your fingertips?

Also, you should check out my post with internal routing for the Formula rear brake and rear derailleur... would make your routing even cleaner! :thumbsup:

cheers
 
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