See below :thumbsup:The DT design is interesting..........more details please. That particular spot on a frame is very important in the structure department and it would make a good subject for discussion.
Yes I need more practice on the thin wall tubing. I can weld 1/16"+ no problem. The welds were shiny before oxidation set in.Walt said:Constructive criticism:
-Spend more time practicing your welding, especially if you want to use heat-treated 8/5/8 tubing. I am guessing that this bike will not last long (just a guess, though). Get a bucket of scraps and lay beads until you can get shiny, even welds - not overcooked, blobby grey messes (my first frame was at least as bad, but it was made from .049" 4130 pipes)
-If that is a butt joint on the DT stuck together with brass, throw the frame away and don't even try to ride it. You've put a very weak joint at a very highly stressed spot. If you've done something clever there and it's not what it appears to be, please tell us about it.
-The internal routing is *probably* going to make all kinds of horrible noises rubbing against itself and the tube walls. It's tough, but better to try to make them not touch each other. Could be fine, too, though.
My feeling is that you should put this one on the wall and start again. No offense intended - I just feel that the combination of nasty porous welds, weird DT butt joint, and super-thin (8/5/8 is thin for PROS building 29ers in most cases) tubing is asking for trouble.
Everyone has to start somewhere. Learn from it and try again!
I may switch to a sus. fork if I plan on really riding it. And I had the paint laying around.TortugaTonta said:I have to say that I have built some equally ugly frames and rode them for a time with no failure.
However, I didn't waste the effort of painting them and they definately didn't have ridgid forks.
On a serious note I would not normaly rain on your parade, but be cautious with a ridgid fork on a frame of that build quality. I would say 99% of front triangle failures I have seen had ridgid forks on the front, from Jamis to Ti IF's.
Timekiller said:See below :thumbsup:
Yes I need more practice on the thin wall tubing. I can weld 1/16"+ no problem. The welds were shiny before oxidation set in.
The DT is NOT a butt joint, rather I guess you could say it is sleaved. The larger diameter is covering the main DT by anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4" Spacers made to take up space and weld them together.
Internal tubing has o-rings at various points to reduce noise. So far the bike is silent.
I know that the bike should be hung up, but I just cant help riding it. It really is the nicest riding, and fitting bike i own.
Ok I see what you mean, Thanks! Well I have a bunch of short pieces I can now practice on. The thin stuff is all new to me, haha.Walt said:...On the welding front, practice on thinner stuff. 1/16" is twice as thick as what you're going to want to be welding for a bike frame. And the welds should stay shiny even quite a while after you'd done them - you've overheated everything and the metal has indeed oxidized - but it's oxidized deep into the weld, not just on the surface. Hence the grey/ashy/pockmarked appearance...