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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put it together over the weekend and I must say that I couldn't be happier with it. Not being a bike mechanic by nature it took me a bit to get a few things taken care of but now that I have it mostly done I am really enjoying this bike. You can definately tell it is a quality bike.

There are still a few adjustements that I need make, so I'm hoping all of you can help me out with them. I must admit that taking it to a bike shop has crossed my mind for a basic tune-up, but then the practical part of me wants to do this myself so I know how to do it next time. So first things first - a picture of the bike :thumbsup:



and the questions I have:

Shifting - It doesn't want to shift on to the big cog in the front. After a bit of grinding it will go but the whole time it's doing that I'm cringing :yikes: I'm assuming that the front derailleur Hi/Low adjustment would take care of this. Can anyone give me some good instructions on doing that. I've read some of the repair guides (park tools, etc), but I want to make sure I'm turning the right screw before I try it. :p Adjusting the derailleurs makes me a little nervous.

Shifting in back - I get a click when I'm on the big cog in the back. I think it's the same thing Hi/Low adjustment and I think I can figure this one out. Isn't the back labeled H & L? Does it sound like that will take care of it?

Juicy's - I figured out how to align the caliper and was surprised out how easy it was. :thumbsup: I'm on to breaking them in. Anyone have some good technique?

Shocks - I haven't even messed with the rebound/compression yet. I've put 65 lbs in the back (I'm 140 soaking wet ) and this seems to get me about the 15% sitting on the bike any more than that and it felt like the shock wasn't even moving. Does that sound right? What should I start with on the front?

More questions will come, but this will get me a good start. Thanks for all the help and did I mention I Love this Bike! :D :smilewinkgrin:

More pictures can be found here:
https://www.pbase.com/gphughes/ibex&page=all

thanks,

Gary
 

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Thirsty
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Nice bike! Jake can probably give you the best advice on how to adjust the front DR. I think the Park Tools instructions are pretty good. They helped me with the front DR but I still took it to my LBS to get it dialed in.
 

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yeah its just the hi adjustment screw.
loosen it a bit, and it should move the Front Der. out more.

If the derailler moves too far that it pops the chain off, just tighten it a bit. If you tighten it too much, then it wont move to the 3rd cog, so find a good midpoint.

Where it shifts nicely, and doesnt pop off.

its really easy, just try it.

its the screw with the letter H.

(FRONT DERAILLER)
 

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Cuánto pesa?
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Read through this> FRONT DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENTS before you start messing around..Your FD is most likely only in need of some simple tuning..

Here's the the info from the IBEX web-site> http://www.ibexbikes.com/care-repair_drivetrain.html

To tune front derailleur:
1) Place chain on smallest cog (farthest inboard) and give shifter a few extra clicks to be sure all cable is out.

2) Loosen cable from cable clamp on derailleur. This will allow you to set derailleur cage without influence from cable.

3) Use stop-limit screw to set the position of the derailleur cage. Careful, on some derailleurs this is the inboard screw and others it is the outboard one (all should have 2 screws, but position varies).

4) Now, reattach cable and tension just to the point of being taut. Check shifting. If it won't correctly, you may need to re-position the cage or adjust cable tension. It's a good idea to try shifting with the chain on different rear cogs. The front may not shift as well with the chain on different sections of the rear cog-set.

5) Shift out to the largest cog and check outer stop limit. Again, stop-limit screw is in different position on different models. Outer stop limit should be set to allow easy shifting onto outer cog, but prevent over-shifting that would cause the chain to go past the cog.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I tried some initial adjustments on the front derailleur last night and I was able to get it to shift a little easier by turning the H screw counter-clockwise a tad, but I still feel like something is not quite right. should I try adjusting the cable where it connects with the shifter?

Overall I wouldn't say it is bad. I can go through all the gears but going from the middle to the big sprocktet on the front is definitely a little rougher.

Once again, thanks for any advice.

Gary
 

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Cuánto pesa?
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deltaf508 said:
I tried some initial adjustments on the front derailleur last night and I was able to get it to shift a little easier by turning the H screw counter-clockwise a tad, but I still feel like something is not quite right. should I try adjusting the cable where it connects with the shifter?

Overall I wouldn't say it is bad. I can go through all the gears but going from the middle to the big sprocktet on the front is definitely a little rougher.

Once again, thanks for any advice.

Gary
Hi Gary,

Turn the barrel adjuster counter-clock-wise is small increments till shifting is quick and precise..

PS. Make sure the FD cage moves just enough so that when your on the large chainring and small cassette cog there's no chain rub on the outer-plate of the cage :D
 

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Expert Crasher
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deltaf508 said:
Shocks - I haven't even messed with the rebound/compression yet. I've put 65 lbs in the back (I'm 140 soaking wet ) and this seems to get me about the 15% sitting on the bike any more than that and it felt like the shock wasn't even moving. Does that sound right? What should I start with on the front?

thanks,

Gary
Here's something I posted yesterday in a different Asta thread about the MC 3.3. You will get better performance from that shock with at least 20% sag.

"Looks like you got a MC 3.3 rear shock. I have one on my K2, it performs pretty well when set up right, however, it took me a while to figure out the right settings. Best thing to tell you is what my settings are and you can go from there

I'm 6'3", weight 210 soaking wet, maybe 215 with gear. I have 5" of rear travel so factor that in too. ON my 3.3, I run the following settings
- 120 psi - that nets me about 20% sag
- rebound 9 turns off max (the rabbit symbol)
- floodgate 7 turns off the + sign (I run my 3.3 active 90% of the time, only using the floodgate middle position on long climbs or flat out smooth areas I want to jam on)

I also balance my rear feel with my front. My simple testing, which probably isn't the best, is to use the same curb over and over until the front/rear have the same feel/rebound action. I also found a nice flat stretch of road and road standing up, every once and a while forcing the suspension to flex, once the rear shock would compress then release with no additional bobbing/bucking - that's where I set the rebound. I found a hill close to my house and would pound out trips up the hill with the floodgate on until I got no pedal bob."

For bedding in brakes, I just did a few hard stops, let them cool, few more, let'em cool. Repeated that for 2-3 iterations and then called it good. I always cleaned the rotors real well before the first bedding session though, use rubbing alcohol to ensure they are totally clean from packing grease or preservative.
 

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Cables stretch during break-in. They can even start stretching slightly in the box on our bikes since they are already under tension. If you have shifting problems on a new IBEX, cable tension is going to be the culprit 95% of the time (or more).

IF YOU HAVE A SHIFTING PROBLEM, DO NOT START OUT BY IMMEDIATELY ADJUSTING STOP LIMIT SCREWS !!!

You need to take the slack out of the cables. Stop limits are set at the factory.

IF YOU CHANGE THE SETTINGS ON THE STOP LIMIT SCREWS AND THEN RE-TENSION CABLES, YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE A PROBLEM.

Adjust the cable tension first. This should solve the problem. If stop limits do need adjusting after this is done, then make real sure you know what your doing. I've seen too many folks who end up with their rear derailleur shoved into the spokes because they started tweaking screws often destroying the rear derailleur and/or the rear wheel. Get the settings wrong on the front derailleur and you end up, at best, where it simply will no longer shift correctly, and, at worst, catching the chain between cage and chainring possibly bending the derailleur cage or gear teeth. If you change the stop limits and subsequently cause damage to derailleurs, wheels, cogs, frame parts, etc... you will not be covered by warranty
 

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Thirsty
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ibexbikes said:
Cables stretch during break-in. They can even start stretching slightly in the box on our bikes since they are already under tension. If you have shifting problems on a new IBEX, cable tension is going to be the culprit 95% of the time (or more).

IF YOU HAVE A SHIFTING PROBLEM, DO NOT START OUT BY IMMEDIATELY ADJUSTING STOP LIMIT SCREWS !!!

You need to take the slack out of the cables. Stop limits are set at the factory.

IF YOU CHANGE THE SETTINGS ON THE STOP LIMIT SCREWS AND THEN RE-TENSION CABLES, YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE A PROBLEM.

Adjust the cable tension first. This should solve the problem. If stop limits do need adjusting after this is done, then make real sure you know what your doing. I've seen too many folks who end up with their rear derailleur shoved into the spokes because they started tweaking screws often destroying the rear derailleur and/or the rear wheel. Get the settings wrong on the front derailleur and you end up, at best, where it simply will no longer shift correctly, and, at worst, catching the chain between cage and chainring possibly bending the derailleur cage or gear teeth. If you change the stop limits and subsequently cause damage to derailleurs, wheels, cogs, frame parts, etc... you will not be covered by warranty
I kind of wish I had that advice before I started with my bike. It may have been out there, but I didn't read it. I played with my front DR screws too much and had to take it to my LBS for them to sort out my mistakes. No damage was done, but I could have saved myself the aggravation and $10 by working on the cable slack.
 

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BrassBalled DropbarNinja
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BrewMaster said:
I kind of wish I had that advice before I started with my bike. It may have been out there, but I didn't read it. I played with my front DR screws too much and had to take it to my LBS for them to sort out my mistakes. No damage was done, but I could have saved myself the aggravation and $10 by working on the cable slack.
just play with it somemore and you'll get it fixed... usually... XD...

www.parktool.com has really nice instructions with pictures...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I highly doubt that I've hosed anything as it seems to be doing better than it was when I first got it. In total I've probably turned the H screw less than 1/8". I did check the cable slack and tightened that a little as well. I rode it for a couple of miles last night (pavment) and went through all the gears and it seems to be doing pretty well. I Might still have a shop look at it to see if there's anything that can be more finely tuned on it, but It's doing pretty well now.

Now onto the shocks, I'm going to start seeing what PSI/Compression/Rebound seems to work the best. Will post back when I have some more questions. Hopefully I'll have some chances to ride this weekend.

Thanks.
 

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deltaf508 said:
I Might still have a shop look at it to see if there's anything that can be more finely tuned on it, but It's doing pretty well now.
One thing that convinced me to find a new LBS was the time my former shop claimed to have tuned and tested my shifting while the bike was on a stand. The problem with this was that it behaved much differently when under the load of my 200 pound body and grinding up a hill. I cursed those dudes for a good hour before I just called it a day and went home to adjust it myself.
 
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