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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i was on craigslist yesterday and saw someone selling a 2008 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp for $1,500. Called her up and it seems her bike shop went out of business and she had a few bikes left over to sell. So i met up and sure enough it was a brand new 08 never ridden.

This will be my first FS bike so i am hoping i got a good bike, it felt comfortable enough to ride but i hadn't done to much research before i bought it (didn't wanna lose the deal). I cant wait to take it out on the trails and give it a good test ride.

I am curious though anyone know a good place to read up about setting my suspension up?

any ideas what it weighs?

 

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Bargain!

Did you get the warranty card too? I assume you did because it was brand new and from a closing down store. Even if she didn't do it for you then, she should still be able to do it for you now.

Lifetime warranty on the bike and 5 year warranty on the rear shock is a lot to gain for a bit of chasing if you don't have it yet.
 

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Nice ride!

I ride a 2007 stumpy fsr comp. Although specialized has its detractors on this board, my stumpy's the nicest bike I've ever owned & I love it. I've ridden it all over ohio, including ray's mtb park, which is definite freeride territory & it does great everywhere.

Regarding your question about setting up your suspension - you can get general guidelines based on weight at fox's website, but I bet you'll find yourself experimenting. I initially set mine up according to fox's guidelines but my suspension seemed too stiff. Don't be afraid to carry a fork pump in your camelback & tweak as you ride either.

Unsolicited advice:

You should periodically tighten the tiny little lock screw on the blue lockout lever on your fox triad shock. If you don't, it will eventually fall off & specialized will charge you $15 to replace this 1" piece of aluminum.

If you ride your bike alot, esp in the mud, MAKE SURE you change swap out your chain every season or it'll eat right the heck through your middle ring, which is soft alloy.

Immediately swap out the alloy bolt that holds down the cap on top of your steer tube (sorry, don't know real term for this part) with a steel bolt. This will cost you like $1. Mine stripped & I destroyed my star nut trying to get the remnants of the stripped bolt out, causing me to have to replace the star nut, which was a PITA.

If you have Avid Juicy brakes - get organic compound pads when you get tired of the incredibly loud noise coming from the rear brakes & embarassing you on group rides.

Ride the heck out of your bike!
 

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Good Deal!

You won't be disappointed.

I'm on an '06. Weight should be about 28+/- lb. or so, depending on size and tires etc.

The tires are very good and don't need swapping, unless you want to. I stuck a Nevegal Stick E on the front (2.35) as I ride Vancouver's Norshore with it, and need all the stickee I can get.

Setup: same as any other bike, the shock = 25% sag. Front fox: I find soft and easy (as little air as it will take) for trail riding; if you get aggressive as in steep rolling/drops, fork dive will happen, so then one must inflate the fork more to suit the terrain. that's because the fork has no compression settings to adjust, except manually with air pump.

I broke a seat bolt (probably due to fat @$$) so you should have no worries there.

Good luck, Jim

this is from the fox site for my 06 model, yours may differ
MEASURING SAG
Use this procedure to measure the sag on your FOX Racing Shox:
MEASUREMENT #1
1. Before sitting on the bicycle, measure and record the distance from the center of one mounting bolt to the center of the other mounting bolt. This
is known as the "eye-to-eye" measurement.
Air shocks have an o-ring on the shock body. The o-ring should be pushed up against the scraper lip of the air sleeve without the rider on the bike.
If there is no o-ring, use the "eye-to-eye" method.
MEASUREMENT #2
2. Sit on the bicycle in a normal riding position. Your weight should be distributed on the saddle, handlebars and pedals. It is also recommended that
you be outfitted in your normal riding gear. It may be necessary to hold yourself up against a wall or post to steady yourself. Do not bounce on the
pedals or saddle.
3. Have an assistant measure and record the eye-to-eye distance.
For an air shock, dismount the bicycle and measure from the scraper lip to the o-ring. This is the sag, using the o-ring method.
4. Subtract measurement #2 from measurement #1. The difference between the two is sag.
MEASUREMENT #1 - MEASUREMENT #2 = SAG
(E.G.: 7.875 - 7.275 = .600)
5. Consult the air or spring settings table in your respective shock's section in this manual. If the sag specifications not in compliance, follow the instructions
in SETTING SAG in the respective shock's section.

STUMPJUMPER 120 - AIR SPRING SETTINGS
Rider Weight Main ChamberAir Pressure
lbs (kg) PSI
90 - 100 (41 - 45) 70 -80
100 - 110 (45 - 50) 80 - 90
110 - 120 (50 - 54) 90 - 100
120 - 130 (54 - 60) 100 - 110
130 - 140 (60 - 64) 110 - 125
140 - 150 (64 - 68) 125 - 140
150 - 160 (68- 73) 140 - 155
160 - 170 (73 - 77) 155 - 170
170 - 180 (77 - 82) 170 - 185
180 - 190 (82 - 86) 185 - 195
190 - 200 (86 - 91) 195 - 205
200 - 210 (91 - 95) 205 - 215
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great advice B-Mac, i truly appreciate it!

Ya the rear brake already sounds like the pads are rubbing the rotor but when i look down in the pads dont seem to be touching im guessing thats the noise everyone talks about...

does that sound like the noise you are talking about, and will the organic pads fix that?

i actually went on my first ride tonight and it keeps jumping between gears so i am going to need to look up how to adjust my derailleurs for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
excellent thanks Jim, i have so much to learn with this new bike. I definetly would like to swap out the tires i just need to find out if the ones i had on my old bike will fit or not havent got that far though:)

- Kenda-Nevegal 26x2.1- StickE (front)
- Kenda-Nevegal 26x2.1- DTC (Rear)

when i have the money ill have to get a pump for the shocks (wife will kill me if i spend more atm lol)
 

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2 thoughts

the tire that's OEM is a 2.2, I run a 2.35 with room to spare I(front only, rear is not that important).

Get a shock pump now, they're cheap at ~$25 or so, and a new shock replacement is in the hundreds if you under inflate it and it trashes.

Good luck, Jim
 

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bluer6 said:
Great advice B-Mac, i truly appreciate it!

Ya the rear brake already sounds like the pads are rubbing the rotor but when i look down in the pads dont seem to be touching im guessing thats the noise everyone talks about...

does that sound like the noise you are talking about, and will the organic pads fix that?

i actually went on my first ride tonight and it keeps jumping between gears so i am going to need to look up how to adjust my derailleurs for sure.
The noise I was referring to is "Avid turkey gobble," & is so loud it'll scare away wildlife in neighboring counties:p The noise you're describing sounds like your brakes rub a little when they're not engaged. I might not be as anal about tweaking my bike as some, but I think a small amount of rubbing is acceptable.

Regarding the shifting - you have barrel adjustors on your shifters that should fix the problem you described.
 

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Great deal. I am about to get a Safire (ladies SJ) Expert for 60% of MSRP because it is a demo bike. I would suggest taking the bike to a good bike shop (reviews on this site are helpful to locate one) and getting them to explain everything and fit it to you. You will most likely have to pay $100+ for this, but it is worth it. So far my bike shop has spent 4 hours with me fitting the bike (swapping seats, stems, etc) and explaining everything to me (and I have not even bought it yet!). I am a newbie (for the most part) and I have learned so much from them and asked so many questions. Although good bike shops don't always have the best prices, what you get with customer service is a bargain. I shopped around not only for a bike, but also a bike shop too. My criteria for a good shop was: I feel comfortable asking questions, don't feel rushed to buy, they break down the new bikes and rebuild from scratch, and they have demo bikes (need to get it on a trail to really know if you want it).

You got an awesome bike at a smoking deal. Take a little of that savings and get a good fit.
 

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I ordered up one from the shop yesterday from Spec...the '08 blk/silver Comp in a large. I rode our '09 Elite test bike from Spec and was highly impressed. I've always been a bigger hit AM kind of rider, but this seems like a really fun, capable bike that isn't just an XC weight weenie model. I'm going to try my 130mm dual air Revelation up front instead of the Fox 120 it comes with. I think this is going to be fun bike.
 

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good stuff...

FWIW, I've dragged mine down the 'shore (fork too short, too much fork dive) but it was fun. Wrong bike for that stuff, but it can be done.

Another time took it to Whizzler and blew the seals front and back, but it was the last run and they were due for overhaul anyhow.

It's a good all around ride, I think you'll like it. Jim
 

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Don't worry...

JimC. said:
FWIW, I've dragged mine down the 'shore (fork too short, too much fork dive) but it was fun. Wrong bike for that stuff, but it can be done.

Another time took it to Whizzler and blew the seals front and back, but it was the last run and they were due for overhaul anyhow.

It's a good all around ride, I think you'll like it. Jim
I have a Nomad and two trail Bullits for that stuff.:D I'm really looking forward to a more XC'ish fast bike that won't wilt under a "little" aggressiveness.
 
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