[joe.MTB]

Well, practically. Everything is on except for the grips, and I just have to fine tune the front derailleur. I made a big mistake though. I wasn't thinking about my turning radius when I cut the cable housing that goes into the shifters, so now I have barely any turning radius. I also cut the cable at the end of the derailleur so I basically have no slack cable to work with. Don't mind the reverse rotor, the screws the hope rotor came with stripped really easily, so I couldn't get them out when I originally put them on backwards. The Outlaws are on too, as you can see in one of the pics

Can I possibly just get new cables and cabling housing to replace the current ones, what can I do?

Here are some pics of the almost finish build.

 

[joe.MTB]

More Pictures

Here are some pics / angles of how far I can turn my wheel before the cables tighten and the derailleur moves. Once again, any advice is helpful.

 

[SuperKat]

Great build. Sorry about those cables though.
The Outlaws are great. I have 'em on my VPF.

 

[jpk1080]

yeah man getting new cables and housing isn't a problem. always cut more than you think you'll need that way you can shorten it up a bit later if you need to. if you don't have a good set of cable cutters, DO NOT TRY ANYTHING ELSE, have your lbs make the cut. trying anything else will only frustrate you as the cable will become frayed, and you won't be able to get the cable to pass through. if you don't have cutters. do your best to measure the length you'll need. so take your given piece, add maybe 8-10 inches, and go to the bike sthop and tell them you need that length. the other derailluer looked like it may need to be a little longer as well. so i'd probably get at least another 6 inches on that cable and you'll be good to go. other than that, awesome build. i actually just put in an order for a heckler so it should be arriving soon as well. did you get a good deal on a build kit or kind of just piece it up yourself? anyways, hope this helps.

 

[GTV8]

Looks good!!! Guess we will be seeing a few more of these threads soon since I also have a Heckler frame on its way.:thumbsup:

 

[nativeson]

Start over

that's probably the easiest solution and part of the learning process. Now that you know where you made your mistake it should come out gravy. Like jpk 1080 said, always cut more than you need and you can fix it later, also measure twice, cut once.

I like to run full length housing on my bikes, I rarely have any problems. Also If you search around the boards people you'll find some folks use a dremel cut-off wheel to cut their cable housing.

 

[crisillo]

Looks very nice... don't sweat it about the housing.. you can get housing and cables for cheap... save the one you take off..in case you need to replace a shorter section in the future (since it is new anyway)

I also recommend a full housing run, but you can do it next time

 

[crisillo]

One more thing... check this thread by BikerBob

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=2680366#post2680366

You can use it as a checklist and as reference for ips on adjustment...

 

[okie_calvin]

That's a shame about those cables and nothing can be done:bluefrown: ; so if I was you I'd just ship it to me and buy another. Really it's a tragedy but remember, one man's loss is another mans gain.

 

[joe.MTB]

Thanks for the help. I'm going to the bike shop in a little bit, to see if I can get new cables and housing. I'll make sure to cut more than enough this time. As for the bike jpk1080, I just pieced it together.

 

[joe.MTB]

I got the cables fixed so now I have a full turning radius, and i also slapped some grips on. As I stated before though, I screwed on the rotors wrong, but when trying to take them out, three of the screws stripped on each. Does it really matter if I run my rotors backwards?

 

[okie_calvin]

I'm no engineer but I think you should not run the rotors backwards for three reasons:
1. Most are made to run a certain way for mud & debris clearing.
2. Potential cooling issues.
3. Strength; the "arms" of the rotor are designed to handle the load of your mass as it moves under braking and with the arms aiming the wrong way they could potentially be under greater load and therefore fail at a most inopportune time.

 

[Chris130]

Consider asking about the rotor issue in the Brakes forum... XSL_WiLL is the go-to brake dude, IMHO...

Cheers, Chris

 

[joe.MTB]

Sounds good to me. I'll probably just PM him, It's not worth starting a new thread.

 

[fat_weasel]

I got the cables fixed so now I have a full turning radius, and i also slapped some grips on. As I stated before though, I screwed on the rotors wrong, but when trying to take them out, three of the screws stripped on each. Does it really matter if I run my rotors backwards?

Like Calvin said, I definately wouldn't run my rotors backwards. At the very least, if you run your rotor like that for a while, put on new pads when you finally flip it. But it shouldn't really be that hard to get those bolts out...get a big-ass pair of channel-lock or vise grip pliers and clamp them onto whatever Torx wrench you're using. You'd be surprised at how "stripped" a bolt you can turn when you apply enough leverage. Torx bolts were designed to take a lot of torque with a really shallow head, meaning that even if it looks like you've stripped the bejeezus out of the head, there should be enough contact surface left to get the bolt out at least.

As to the housing, I've cut mine too short enough times that now I just run full housing all the time...all you have to do is zip-tie a long section of housing to the frame, line it up with the shifter, measure and cut. No more :madmax: :madman: :madmax: when you realize you came up short on your last section of housing.

 

[WildJackal]

I run full housings as well. Great for keeping the mud out. Increased adjustability.