My Maelstrom is dying, any tips on idler setup

I decided to try the spare original roller since the chain line issue seemed odd to me and I figured I was doing pretty well with the original. While I was at it I removed another spacer from my BB thinking my chainline couldnt have been perfect or the new roller would have run true. Its a flat roller so shouldnt be dictating the chain line all that much. This is how the new roller looked after 1 ride.

This is what happened after removing the new roller and attempting to complete 1 ride on the original roller.

I flipped the bike to try look for other clues and noticed that judging from below, my original BB spacing would have given me the best chain line and the new roller was just throwing me off. I think 2x2mm spacers or 1x2mm and 1x1mm spacer is the best setup on the drive side. This gives a straight chainline and just enough clearance between the granny ring and chain guide, no washers behind the stinger. This is how it looks with
1x2mm spacer running 34t front and middle on the casette, hard to see but there is a bit of a kick in the chain. No major but if I want to switch to single up front then using the biggest cog would become more of an issue. I will be adding a 1mm spacer on the drive side.

I think I have been really patient and put alot of effort into getting this bike working and while I hate maintenance I am prepared to work this out. I am frustrated to be in Korea where I have to import parts and weight 1-2 weeks. I have a bike that I am struggling to keep running and have no real option to sell it and get something more durable. Like I said I am prepared to try and work this out so any tips would be great. I bought htis as a bike which can cover some all mountain rides with a granny ring and front mech but I was even prepared to run single up front to reduce any chances of dropping a chain. I dont see how that will help with the idler issue since I stay in the middle of the casette on the runs where I have destroyed all my pulleys. I am emailing Corsair today with the same pics and info and if I get some updates I will post it up.

I think the dudes back at Corsair need to go back to the drawing board. I've seen this issue in more than 1 Corsair (especially the need to clean/lube/maintain the pulley after every ride or so).

Definitely the cog needs to have a bearing, but the bearing should have some sort of slick friction free interface with the axle to avoid excessive wear and especially to avoid chain line issues. Finally it should have some o-rings at the sides to clean the axle as it is moving and avoid excessive interface wear out.

The floating pulley design is the same as in the RaceFace Atlas chainguide only that it uses a cog instead of a roller...

Geartech, I can actually see the finished build of my DT, I have a fork, brand new set of Spank wheels, wont tell you the color till the build is complete, which I was thinking of using but decided to store them to keep them fresh. I have three bikes so while I dont like too much maintenance I am getting used to it. I keep all my bikes super clean in order to keep them running smooth but since the Maelstrom I cant believe how little I actualy have to do to the hardtail and Wildcard. Thinking back it was really changing tires, setting brakes, minor stuff really.
This Maelstrom is another can of worms and while maintenance is acceptable a seized up drive chain on a comitted line is asking for an injury.
Err's Rune is making it a tough call but going though this idler issue and then having the Rune with bushings which require chaing out etc I am realling thinking the DT might be the winner. Since the DT can step up to the plate if the Maelstrom really does die is another motivating factor. All I need is a huge discount on the frame.