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Bikesexual
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

As I continue to work on upgrading to a better bike, I found this @ my LBS and I'm seriously considering it. Your expert advice is always appreciated. :thumbsup:

Trek Bicycle

Same color/specs - I got the above link from the Trek website.

My only hesitation is going from 26 to 29 - I did sit on the bike but didn't ride it, I could feel the difference in cockpit.

Sorry the price is $1099.00

Thanks!
 

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ditto that. this is the time to pick up 2013 models cheap.

if your ride style if more cross-country (think, climbing) then the 29 is a no brainer. the only negative of the 29er is that it can be difficult to handle on technical single tracks / turns. but since you're looking at a hard tail i'm going to assume your riding style is XC.
 

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Rogue Exterminator
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Don't worry about the 29ers and hardtails not being good on technical single track. Western NC where I live is full of technical single track and 29ers do just fine. Both my mountain bikes are 29ers (one geared full suspension and one hardtail single speed) and yes the full suspension does excel on the technical down hill but both bikes do fine and are fun as hell. Also the majority of riders here ride 29ers and some of them are exceptional riders. Oddly enough some of these riders left behind their 26" bikes and went to 29" bikes. Bikes are a personal preference and I see everything from full rigid single speeds to full squish long travel any wheel size and everything in between bikes heading down the most technical rocky rooty "oh my God you ride a bike down that" black diamond single track trails and any one of those riders will be willing to prove you wrong if you tell them their bike is no good for technical single track.

Not saying one wheel size is better than the other but don't believe the hype and just pick the one that is comfortable to you and ride it.
 

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Don't worry about the 29ers and hardtails not being good on technical single track.
What he said. For most folks, they'll have an -easier- time getting a 29r over 'technical' track containing roots, smaller (than a basketball) rocks, etc. The decreased angle at which the wheels strike them make it easier to roll over.

As far as turns go, most riders don't lean or carve with their bikes enough for wheel size to make a difference. IMHO, the average rider will get more of a difference from learning turning techniques than from switching wheels sizes. (See: Brian Lopes' 'Mountain Bike Skills' book.)
 

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I find my 29er a lot harder to control in high speed descents involving switchbacks - as compared to my 26. Not sure why anyone would claim differently. It's science. Can I go as fast? Probably. But it takes more effort and skill (mental and physical).

It does roll a lot better. But consider this: when you have a bike that is like a tank and rolls over stuff, what happens? You go faster in the straights. As you approach the turns though, you will find out the hard way that the wheels don't respond with quite the forgiveness as a 26. You must pick lines with no room for error, or you need to slow down. Hence, I encourage riders making the switch to be aware of the limitations - and most importantly, ride safe until they feel confident with the changes (physics!).

As an XC rider I much prefer dealing with the rare parts of the course that include such terrain....because the benefits of 29 far outweigh the hardships for my riding style. If I rode anything other than XC I would probably go 650B.

This argument is similar to clipless. There are drawbacks to clipless, and if you don't explain that to newbies you run the risk of being the reason they crash. There are drawbacks to 29ers, and those drawbacks depend on your type of riding. If you ride ignorant of those, you are exposing yourself to crash.....just my 10 cents.
 

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Bikesexual
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I find my 29er a lot harder to control in high speed descents involving switchbacks - as compared to my 26. Not sure why anyone would claim differently. It's science. Can I go as fast? Probably. But it takes more effort and skill (mental and physical).

It does roll a lot better. But consider this: when you have a bike that is like a tank and rolls over stuff, what happens? You go faster in the straights. As you approach the turns though, you will find out the hard way that the wheels don't respond with quite the forgiveness as a 26. You must pick lines with no room for error, or you need to slow down. Hence, I encourage riders making the switch to be aware of the limitations - and most importantly, ride safe until they feel confident with the changes (physics!).

As an XC rider I much prefer dealing with the rare parts of the course that include such terrain....because the benefits of 29 far outweigh the hardships for my riding style. If I rode anything other than XC I would probably go 650B.

This argument is similar to clipless. There are drawbacks to clipless, and if you don't explain that to newbies you run the risk of being the reason they crash. There are drawbacks to 29ers, and those drawbacks depend on your type of riding. If you ride ignorant of those, you are exposing yourself to crash.....just my 10 cents.
That actually makes a lot of sense jlockie (physics) - I appreciate the input the more I can learn the better.
 

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Rogue Exterminator
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Engineering is always a matter of give in take but there is so much more to handling switchbacks than wheel size. Maybe the geometry on your 26" bike was better suited for you. I have ridden bikes of the same wheel size and some do better than others in certain situations. Even then switchbacks is one small aspect of mountain biking.

There is a reason this whole topic of wheel size is over debated is that there is no definitive correct answer. We could go back and forth for pages and all we will achieve is proving we disagree with each.

So jcd, if you want to believe the hype go ahead. Drink whatever wheel size kool-aid you want. Then tell everyone it is the best wheel size because it will be no matter what size it is. Then proceed to tell them how whatever wheel size they have is insufficient.

Of course if it was all true then I guess everyone would have the same wheel size. :rolleyes:
 

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Trek Bicycle

Sorry the price is $1099.00

Thanks!
I was out with a friend sampling bikes the past few weeks and that seems to be the going rate for a NEW hardtail equipped with a decent fork (Recon, XC32) and hydro brakes. Not a deal by any means, but not taking it in the rear.

I see you're currently riding an entry-level hardtail...can I ask why you're not going for a higher-quality used full-suspension bike?

I'm in a similar boat. I'm riding a Forge Sawback that I just put $100 into (full tune and front tire). But after test riding bikes with rebound equipped forks, I'm thinking of upgrading to a decent fork ($200-250).

On the other hand, I see lots of very nice full-Suspension rigs on Craigslist for around $1,000 +/- (2008 Yeti, 2010 Giant Trance, 2009 Niner, 2008 Titus, Canondale Rize and Scalpel, etc) that seem to be legit- receipts, tunes, worn parts replaced, etc). Not to mention Mt Hood opened their lifts to bikers last year...and who likes climbing? lol
 

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Bikesexual
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sounds like the type of riding he is doing makes a hard tail a better choice for him.

Oh, and I like climbing.
Kjlued, you are correct and I like climbing as well +1. There are other factors as why I want a HardTail which I gathered from all of you guy's experience.

Budget - best bank for my buck

I'm not sure I'm a good enough mechanic to know a really good value on a used bike (I can't post 5.000 adds asking you guys)

Maintenance/See above

My riding and I kinda like HT's

Used is not completely out of the ? but I would need to bring one of my experienced buddy's to check the bike 100%
 
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