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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my XL Mukluk 2 today. It isn't together but I weighed the parts. I'm changing the drivetrain out on it so I'll never have a true stock complete weight. I got 32.7lbs. A few pounds lighter than a Muk 3.

Folding BFL: 1500gr (both weighed the same)
Folding Nate: 1440gr
Steel Black Floyd: 1060gr (I think. My memory is a little fuzzy here. Shop was closing and I was in a hurry)

As far as the decal blemish. It is minor as hell. It looks like a little tiny bit of tape residue or something. It's just a little texture. It is only on the non-driveside. It goes the length of the decal. It's about 3/8" tall.

Interesting observation: The e.13 crank has all of the BB spacers on the driveside. A member here reported that this caused some creaking from the BB. We shall see.

And I think QBP/Salsa lost the little rubber grommet on the BB7. It wasn't there when I pulled the packaging off and it wasn't stuck in the packaging nor was it on the floor. Meh. They're easy to lose. You have to really careful with those.

Also, my bike was assembled on 09-26-11 by QBP/Salsa. Blarg.
 

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MORBID
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I got mine a few mins ago, thanks again to the guys at Angry Catfish. The blemish on mine is tough to see, I probably wouldn't have noticed it. Stupid rain is stopping, time to take it out for a little spin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I dropped one cog off and stuck a 4.5mm spacer behind the cassette and there is zero clearance with a BFL on an 80mm rim in the lowest combination. We'll see if it stretches. This is with three spacers on the driveside BB. Some smart FD adjustment may take care of the rest.
 

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Interesting observation: The e.13 crank has all of the BB spacers on the driveside. A member here reported that this caused some creaking from the BB. We shall see.
That was me. Since then, I put a dimple in the drive side chain stay, for chainring clearance (with the permission of the manufacturer). That allowed me to remove one spacer from the drive side, so I am now down to one spacer and the E-type derailleur mounting plate. I also switched to a Mr. Whirly crank.
Unfortunately, the creak is still present, though it is now quieter than it was before. The Mr. Whirly bearing cup threads are a better fit in the BB shell than the e.13 cups were, so that may be a contributing factor, but apparently the problem was not specific to the e.13 crank or the stack of three spacers. I've been methodically working through all of the other things I think it could be (seatpost, chain, cassette, ect.) but it still really has the sound of a BB issue.
Anyway, I was not thrilled with the amount of threads that were engaged in the BB shell when three spacers were installed on the drive side cup, but it's probably strong enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
#@$*@(#%*&@#(*[email protected]()#*$)(@*
One of my Big Fat Larrys keeps popping off the front rim. The Nate went on fine. There is a section of the bead area that is worn and the threads are showing. This is where it starts popping every time at around 12 psi. I'll try it on a different Mukluk 2 rim. I could try my other one that I already mounted on the rear on the front but they take so long to inflate.
 
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