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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Begin:

20140426_033909.jpg

40 min later:

20140426_042222.jpg

I'm about an hour and s half into tensioning, need a break.

Except for calculating the spoke length, the whole process was quite enjoyable, looking forward to doing the the front, and the sound of that CK hub, just makes me happy.....


Using QR for now, will switch to funbolts once I'm done truing/tensioning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks car!



And complete!:

20140427_161845.jpg


I really enjoyed that build, going to do it again. I used straight gauge spokes, (to keep the cost of mis- measurement down). When it's time to rebuild I'll use double butted.

The spokes come just to the bottom of the slot in the nipple, not too the top of the nipple, it's that enough thread engagement? I tried to get a photo, but wouldn't come out clear with my phone.
 

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Looking good! Bottom of the slot is perfect.

Too short is usually not a problem with thread engagement, but if the spoke doesn't go past the shoulder on the nipple, the risk of the nipple breaking is increased. Especially with alu nipples.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Saul, waiting on the front hub to arrive, excited to start on the next wheel. It was almost theraputic building it. I used the frame as a stand, with a 6" ruler rubber banded across the seat - stays. It's round and true within about 1/2mm, could get it closer on a real stand, but no need.
 

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Thanks Saul, waiting on the front hub to arrive, excited to start on the next wheel. It was almost theraputic building it. I used the frame as a stand, with a 6" ruler rubber banded across the seat - stays. It's round and true within about 1/2mm, could get it closer on a real stand, but no need.
Not sure if you're using a tensionometer, but I would put more importance on even tension than perfect true. 0.5mm is within the specs of some high end factory wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't have a tensionometer, but I think I know where I can borrow one. I may buy one, I enjoyed the build enough I want to start building wheels for friends ;).

Any recommendations for a tensionometer?
 

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I don't have a tensionometer, but I think I know where I can borrow one. I may buy one, I enjoyed the build enough I want to start building wheels for friends ;).

Any recommendations for a tensionometer?
I used to build wheels as a mechanic and had the shop level stuff. After a near decade long hiatus I have built a half dozen wheelsets the last couple years. I use the Park TM-1 Tension Meter and a Spin Doctor truing stand. Not shop level stuff but good enough for the home mechanic.
 

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Nice work. If you buy the park tension meter it will last forever and doesn't really lose any value.
I have to ask - Why straight guage spokes when you clearly went for light weight with the rims?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, and good to know. I just ordered a used Park on ebay.

I went with straight gauge to minimize the cost of errors, building and measuring. Both were unnecessary fears. ....
 

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I don't own a tension meter. I just pluck the spokes and compare the tone to similar ready-made builds. For shorter/thinner spokes the tone must of course be higher, and longer/thicker ones have a lower sound.

There's actually quite a bit of space between "high enough tension" and "too much tension", of course the latter is reduced if the parts are made very light. With beefier rims and brass nipples you need some serious over-tension to cause any damage. There are enough things to building a wheel that need careful attention. I don't worry about it too much as long as I have enough tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
glad I bought a meter, I had WAY too much tension (hadn't ridden on the wheel yet). 150kgf on the drive side, the crest rims call for 95. I don't think that would've done any damage with it just sitting, but I backed it off 1/4 turn at a time (1 to 1.5 turns on each nipple total), balanced all the tensions as I was de-tensioning, and the rim was round and true with just a touch of tweaking.

Did a quick ride around the block with the kids and no pinging from the wheel :) hopefully I didn't do any lasting damage, the spoke-holes don't show any stretching, but I'll keep a close eye on the rim for a while.
 

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I wound one side up too much on mine too, no cracks yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
....
I have to ask - Why straight guage spokes when you clearly went for light weight with the rims?
Allright, time for new rims, these Crests are too flexy for my 190lb butt.

I found a pair of Arch rims for a great deal, so will be rebuilding the wheels w/ double butted spokes and alu nipples. Any weight-gains in the rim should be offset by the spokes/nipples.
 

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Nice job. I've been building wheels since the late 70's. It's a bit of work but very rewarding. For my personal bike it's allowed me to get exactly what I want right off the top. For my friends, they smile and realize it's great learning more about keeping their ride running and the fact that they can build (or have me build) what ever they want. Congrats!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nice job. I've been building wheels since the late 70's. It's a bit of work but very rewarding. For my personal bike it's allowed me to get exactly what I want right off the top. For my friends, they smile and realize it's great learning more about keeping their ride running and the fact that they can build (or have me build) what ever they want. Congrats!!
Thanks! currently re-doing the wheels on my kids' bikes...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
update on the rear wheel, tire needed to be re-sealed so I pulled it off to clean up, check the true etc...

After 8 months of abuse, it's still within a couple mm of round and true, but could use some work on a rainy-day. I checked the tension, 2 spokes on the NDS low out of spec, but that's not too bad, considering there's 2 minor dents in the rim lip...

Park Tool Co.

I didn't save it, but when I was done building, all spokes were within 10%.

For a first wheel build, I'm happy with the results.
 
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