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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this is my first urban/dj bike build. the frame is a BoomBox from Dabomb. nixon fork. King Earl wheelset, cranks, and bars. Blackspire chainring, bashgaurd and roller. King cog and Ti spacers. custom king reverse rasta headset, custom rasta 50/50's from crankbrothers. Hayes Mag Hydro brakes w/ 160mm front and 140mm rear rotors.

Tell me what you think.

(click pics to enlarge)

<a href="https://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=249703051"><img src="https://photo.ringo.com/248/248110896RL372876493.jpg" border="0"/></a><a href="https://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=249703043"><img src="https://photo.ringo.com/248/248110891RL002754796.jpg" border="0"/></a>

<a href="https://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=249703021"><img src="https://photo.ringo.com/248/248110887RL236230757.jpg" border="0"/></a><a href="https://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=249703066"><img src="https://photo.ringo.com/248/248110878RL224300106.jpg" border="0"/></a>

<a href="https://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=249703079"><img src="https://photo.ringo.com/248/248110929RL339834499.jpg" border="0"/></a>
 

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Killer of Chains
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1,800 Posts
That frame is something else...

I'd lower the Nixon if you could.

You've got so many nice parts on there that another frame would do you good.

How much does the current setup weigh?

What background are you coming from? (XC/FR/DH/BMX?)
 

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The frame looks really heavy, also definatly lower the fork if you can, but the geo of that frame might not support a lowered fork as well, so IDK. You could also lower the seat a bit if you want, looks like it might get int he way.

But other than that you have some nice components!
 

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KINGFISHER1 said:
i cant remember what the frame weighs in at but its made out of pretty thin boxed aluminum. yet its crazy stiff. i dunno if i can adjust the travel or not. its internal if i can.
WOW!! All-in-all a SICK bike. Not too sure on the frame, but the components on that bad boy are sexxxyy. Not quite what some people would classify as a DJ/urban ride due to the travel of the front sus, but it would make a nice light FR/AM rig. Well done :thumbsup:
 

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newbie
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You should cut the seat tube, its pretty high. After you cut it just notch it for the seat post collar
 

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mtbr remember
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Demo-9 said:
I am going to wait for XS_Will to comment before I do...

???




I gotta give you some points for originality here. Not really the ideal set up for "urban/dj", but nothing wrong with that at all. Looks like a lot of fun to me actually!
giant king cong cog on the back looks a bit goof troop with the conversion kit, but hey, sure it works fine.
You could probably even weld a compressor fitting to the frame and hold some high psi in there for adjusting your tire pressure on mid ride! haha!!! kidding.... But, I actually saw where a guy did that with his old Intense M3 monocoque, but the air pressure was intended for the old shimano pnuematic shift lines...
 

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i can just imagine now seeing a guy on the trail with a blown up monocoque frame.

"what happened to your bike man?"

"o nothing my in bike air tank exploded"
 

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Bikes Rule
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1,133 Posts
I don't get the roller on a SS set-up. Why no tensioner on the back? Maybe it works for you but it seems like it would not pedal well with all of the chain torque pressing on the roller. I predict that the roller gets chewed up quick.
 

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thats a nice bike but yeah the frame is...unique. Thats the first thing I would change. for the rest I love the parts!. Damn!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the gearing is 34-18t . i chose the roller so that i didnt have to have a tensioner or a singlator on the back. it pedals great becouse it doesnt have anymore tension than a rear mounted tensioner would have, plus when you pedal fowards it slackens the bottom half of the chain a bit. the roller is an ultra low durometer from mountain speed and it still shows no wear. as for the frame; i chose it becouse me nor anyone has ever seen one or is anyine else running one. i wanted it be be way differant from the rest of the bikes around. same with my king fisher, i bought it just for looks. lol
 

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Demo-9 said:
I don't get the roller on a SS set-up. Why no tensioner on the back? Maybe it works for you but it seems like it would not pedal well with all of the chain torque pressing on the roller. I predict that the roller gets chewed up quick.
who wants something hanging off the ass-end of a bike?! the rollers last just fine.. trust me. he has a fairly low gear ratio by the looks of things as well. Often times, if you "push" the chain down with a roller, the chain will slack, yes. but it doesnt seem to when pulling up.
 

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I post too much.
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I'd be slightly weary of that singlespeed setup. I ran a similar one where the chainguide acted as a tensionner and dropped chains regularily, save yourself weight and hassle, get rid of the chainguide, remove a few links for the chain and have fun.

Looks can sometimes be deceiving, it's not the sexiest bike on earth, but the build is well thought out and it looks like a lot of fun. 140mm of travel is a bit much, otherwise I don't think I'd change much.
 

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AKA; Jimmy Tango
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Demo-9 said:
I don't get the roller on a SS set-up. Why no tensioner on the back? Maybe it works for you but it seems like it would not pedal well with all of the chain torque pressing on the roller. I predict that the roller gets chewed up quick.
Believe it or not, that actually works better. Plus, the rear mount tensioner always gets screwed up(quickly too) when you land backwards and roll then pedal pivot out. That extreme chain torgue loading causes the rear mount tensioner to lose tension. I was using a Soulcraft tensioner for a long time and seemed to be the best of the rear mount tensioners. Using red loctite made it only marginally better. The BB guide/tensioner is superior. Slotted dropouts would be even better, but I will need a new frame for that feature.
 
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